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KRL15 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 December 2003 at 1:13pm

In an effort to consolidate "Stickies", one big Thread will be started. Patticipation in this Thread is by "Invitation". Material that is placed here without consent, MIGHT be deleted.

Simply Copy and Paste your original articles into this Thread as a new Post in this Thread. Then, release your current Sticky. It might be a good idea to have a LINK to your old Threads, in your new Post here.

Contents & Rules,........... Topic Starter...... Moderator Staff

A-5 V/S M-98C,.............. Post One........ Kreeper-X

Pistols,.......................... Post Two........ <-longBow->

Automags,..................... Post Three...... FalloutMan

E-Cockers,..................... Post Four....... EmVeePee

Impulses........................ Post Five........ Gatyr

Mech-Cockers,................ Post Six......... Simma Down!!

Insight Component Engineering (ICE) Epic..  Post Seven.. Clownshooter

Edited by KRL15
That which does not kill you often makes you stronger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kreeper-X Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 December 2003 at 2:24am
How does the A-5 really stack up against the Model 98 Custom?
By Kreeper-X Updated 04-04-2003 Overall: 9 out of 10

I've discovered, since the release of Tippmanns' latest marker, that there are a lot of misconceptions about the A-5.

One of the first things people said, before ever even seeing one in person was that the Cyclone feeder was far too large and made for a "huge" target on the right hand side of the marker. As you will read later on in this article, that's not true at all.

The prevailing "wisdom" among those who don't own the A-5 is that it's nothing more than a "rehash of the Model 98 Custom with a fancy hopper" and that there are few, if any, improvements to the overall performance of what's looked at by many in the paintball community as "just another Tippmann blow back semi."

It is for these people that I write this article.

The Similarities

Looking strictly at the design of the marker, the A-5 is what Tippmann has perfected and does best, an open-bolt blow-back semi-automatic paintball marker utilizing Tippmanns' extremely versatile CVX valve. The design is simple and extremely durable, so much so that Tippmann has changed very little in the valve and bolt system design since the 68 Carbine was released some time ago.

Like all modern Tippmann markers, the A-5 utilizes a rear bolt that is driven forward by a drive spring and returned to the ready position by blow-back gasses. The front bolt which opens and closes the breech and releases gas into the barrel is connected to the rear bolt by a linkage arm. As the rear bolt comes forward to strike the valve pin and release the gas, the front bolt forces the paintball into the breech and seals off the barrel before releasing a burst of gas into the barrel, launching the paintball.

The A-5 also uses Tippmanns' old velocity adjustment screw which works not by changing the gas output of the valve, but creating turbulence in the power tube, slowing the air down. This system wastes some gas and a good Rear Velocity Adjuster will fix this.

The Look

Once you get past the basic operation of the A-5, the similarities with the Model 98 begin to end the differences become apparent.

The very first thing that anyone notices about the new Tippmann A-5 is the look of the marker. The M98 and M98c really didn't look all that great in my opinion but they were far from ugly (except those darned gills on the M98). The A-5 has a decidedly "real world" look to it without a hopper and tank on it, resembling an H&K MP5 right down the foregrip, cocking knob and trigger grip frame. Players need not worry about being arrested though, as the A-5 with the Cyclone and a hopper and a tank looks less like a real firearm and more like a paintball marker.

Also noticeable is the MP5 style trigger grip frame which is made primarily for right handed players. Some people prefer 45 style grips so Tippmann made the grip frame removable to accommodate 45 grips or aftermarket Lefty grip frames. J&J performance is working on an aluminum 45 style grip, and Tippmann has recently released an electronic sear tripping E-Grip. The stock A-5 grip frame is made of a plastic polymer to reduce weight, but it's not just cheap plastic, it's ballistics quality stuff and can take a serious amount of abuse.

In fact, a lot of the A-5 is "plastic" instead of aluminum both because of cost and weight. The grip frame and foregrip as well as the main cyclone body and cocking knob are plastic. This reduces weight, so it's not a bad thing, though some people are scared to death of plastic. Tippmann made this marker to last and you need not worry, it's not a Brass Eagle marker after all, it's a Tippmann Marker and we all know how Tippmann stand behind the products they make.

The overall size of the A-5 is a little longer than the M98c and a bit heaver, but this is because the M98c is weighed without a revy hopper and the A-5 has the Cyclone built in. However, due to the low profile and the fact that the hopper and Cyclone feeder fit so close to the marker, the A-5 has a better overall balance to it than the M98c.

The Cyclone Feed System

The second thing that they notice is the Cyclone Feed System, which looks like about half of a soda can with a five arm "star" agitator inside it. The Cyclone Feed System resembles the Star Feed System on the old Tippmann Factory F/A markers from the mid nineties. In fact the Cyclone is the next generation of the same feed system.

The Factory F/A was a fully mechanical Full-Auto paintball marker that, for the most part, wasn't allowed on most fields or in tourneys, and Tippmann needed a reliable and fast feed system to keep up with the F/A, and they came up with the Star Feed system. The Star Feed system came only on the Tippmann Factory F/A markers and used spring tension to load paintballs into the breech each time the bolt opened when a shot was fired. The paintballs rest in the gap of the star arm and as the bolt opens, the feeder turns one stepand loads a paintball into the breech.

The main problems were that the F/A had some timing issues with the delay sears and shocks so the marker could fall out of time and become a blender and everytime you filled the hopper, you had to turn a crank on the bottom of the Star Feed that wound the pring so the marker could fire another 150 rounds before doing it all over again. These problems were solved by Tippmann by linking the Star Feed to a gas powered piston and thus the Cyclone Feed System was born.

The cyclone Feed System works by directing a small portion of the excess blowback gas released by the CVX valve into a piston which forces the cyclone to turn one step. So each time you pull the trigger a paintball is force fed into the chamber and ready for firing again. No matter how fast you shoot, the cyclone loads the next ball just as fast. A common misconception about the Cyclone is that it sucks up extra gas, this is not true, the Cyclone requires a small amount of gas that is normally wasted in the normal operation of a Tippmann blow back.

The Cyclone main body is connected to the marker by a single bolt on the left and two guide pins on the right side and connected to the CVX valve via a valve tap and banjo fitting. There is also a cylinder that houses both the air piston that works the Cyclone and a manual feed knob that you use to force the first paintball into the breach at the beginning of a game.

As paintballs fall into the main feed body, they fall into one of five "star slots" that effectively pre-load the next five shots and keeps them in stand-bye to be fired, just like a gumball machine. As the trigger is pulled, the cyclone advances the "star" one step, forcing the next paintball into the chamber.

The Cyclone acts as a force-feed system, not just an agitating hopper and was factory tested to 16bps and it can handle every bit of that and then some, though you will have to get the Tippmann Reactive Trigger Kit or E-Grip as well as a good flowing High Pressure Air (HPA) tank to realize that potential. To see the A-5 RT w/HPA in action, CLICK HERE and then download the video.

Some of the earlier Cyclone Feed Systems could malfunction when used with HPA or in markers that cycled a ton of paint on a consistant basis, so Tippmann released a Cyclone Upgrade that fixes these problems and will install it free of charge if you send the marker to them or they'll send you the parts if you feel secure enough to install them yourself.

The hopper for the A-5 is a little different looking and has an odd flat face, but it functions just as well as any other hopper. There were reports of Early A-5s having hopper that would break if they took a direct hit from a paintball. These hoppers will be replaced by Tippmann for free if you do break one, and Tippmann has replaced the old plastic hopper with a stronger hopper made with thicker plastic on all new A-5s leaving the factory.

Now a lot of people have been yelling about the size of the cyclone system and how much larger it is that a "normal" hopper such as a Revolution or Evolution. But the facts are that the hopper has a lower profile and is tighter to the marker than any other marker on the market. The Hopper sits a full two inches lower on the A-5 than on a Model 98 with a Revolution on it. the hopper itself is smaller than a revy, only holding slightly more than 160 rounds, but the size difference is really telling. Check out the Cyclone Size Review, also on this reviews page, to see the pictures for yourself.

The Bolt System and Rate of Fire

At first glance, the A-5 seems to utilize the same bolt system as the M98 and M98c but that is far from the truth, A quick look at the rear bolt reveals that it's hollowed out and isn't the same as the rear bolt on the m98. The Rear bolt is just as strong as the m98 bolt, but it's slightly heavier. This heavier bolt is intended to stop the run-away trigger that the M98 had with the RT installed, but the rate of fire isn't effected. IN fact the A-5 can fire faster than the m98 because of the trigger system and the stream-lined design.

The recoil is only slightly heavier than that of the M98c and is barely noticeable for those used to non-electronic markers, however, the rate of fire is radically different.

Tippmann Factory Tested the M98 to 9bps and when they released the 98C, they addressed the complaints of M98 owners about how difficult it was to upgrade the marker and tweaked 11bps out of the 98C. With the A-5, the designers went all out and came up with a marker that can actually fling 15bps mechanically. They lightened the trigger pull and reduced the play in the A-5 trigger and that, combined with the re-designed bolt system, boosted the rate of fire into "high-end" territory.

Now, the average human finger can't pull the trigger 9 times a second, let alone 15, but the potential is there and can be fully recognized with an RT or E-Grip and other upgrades.

Field Stripping the A-5

One of the biggest gripes everyone had with the M98 and 98C series markers was how hard it was to strip down and clean. Even the precursor of the M98, the Pro Series markers, were easier to field strip and clean. The M98 cleaning process was a comlicated and tedious process, involving springs that liked to fly off in different directions and pins that liked to fall out.

The Pro Series markers had a rear sight that held the linkage arm down on both the front and rear bolt. You simply had to remove the rear sight, pop the linkage arm out, take the barrel off and remove the end cap and the rear bolt would come out and the front bolt would come out and you would clean the marker out.

The A-5 is like a mix of the two concepts, allowing you to strip the marker down in less than 60 seconds. Standard cleaning and maintenance can be done by turning the velocity screw all the way in and then pulling out four quick-pull pins, removing the grip and ASA adapter and pulling the entire valve system out of the marker. Though the A-5 is still a clam-shell design like the M98 and 98C, it can be stripped down and cleaned without completely disassembling the marker.

Everything in the A-5 is very modular in design. This becomes evident when fully disassembling the marker. We find that the entire trigger and sear system is a single self-contained part. No more springs flying everywhere when you strip the marker like there was with the M98 and 98C. The one-piece trigger assembly can be broken down easily for installation of a double-trigger or for maintenance sake.

You'll also notice that the A-5 utilizes a completely enclosed bolt system, meaning that there are no openings to the outside anywhere on this marker except the barrel and the breech. This improves on the design of all previous Tippmann markers which have a big hole in the rear-bolt area that allowed paint and dirt and other outside contaminants into the bolt system and that could result in wear and malfunction. The A-5 is completely closed off to the outside, making it harder for anything to get inside causing problems.

Upgrade Options

Out of the box, the A-5 features more upgrade options for the player than any previous Tippmann marker. Built into the valve system is a vertical Tombstone adapter which will accept any regulator or expansion chamber with standard threads. This eliminates the need to upgrade the M98 and 98C to accomplish the same thing. The A-5 also features a completely removable grip frame so switching to the E-grip of new J&J Performance 45 Style Grip frame is easy as pulling two pins and changing the bottomline ASA out.

The fore-grip can be moved about an inch forward or back or can be completely replaced with any number of aftermarket front grips, including an adapter by Lapco that allows you to mount the front grip at a 90 degree angle similar to the old British Sten Guns or, in paintball, the old SMG-60 and SMG-68s that Tippmann first made back at the very beginning. The front grip can also be completely removed if you so desire, quite unlike the foregrip on the M98 and M98c which is a part of the receiver body.

The ASA can be removed altogether and you can run vertical if you desire or you can get the Lapco universal adapter and use ANY drop forward you want.

Also worth mentioning is that the barrel threads of the A-5 are removable and exchangeable. The A-5 is shipped with a Pro-Carb barrel thread adapter which accepts almost all Pro-series barrels and well as most F-4 barrels, but if you want, you can get a series of aftermarket adapters that allow you to use spyder, m98 and other style barrels on your A-5.

Overall, the A-5 was built to be even easier to upgrade than the 98C which was released primarily due to demand for a easier-to-upgrade Tippmann marker than the M98. The kits that were supposedly "drop in" for the M98 and 98C are truly drop in kits for the A-5. The RT drops into the A-5 in less than 15 minutes if you are familiar with the marker and requires very little alteration to the grip in the removing of a single tab. The E-Grip can be installed in less than a minute. The A-5 Flatline comes as a one piece modular barrel system which twists on with a quarter turn and aligns itself to the marker easier than the old style M98 or 98C Flatline.

You can do just about anything to the A-5 that you can do to an M98 or 98C unless the product hasn't been released yet. The upgrades are coming out all the time so just be patient and you'll have everything you could possibly want to add to your A-5


In conclusion, the A-5 is the next evolution in the Tippmann line of markers. It corrects the majority of complaints players had with the M98 and 98C series markers, improves on the design and performance, and and does this without sacrificing any of the Tippmann reputation for building the most reliable and durable markers on the planet.

If you do find that you have a problem, Tippmann has the best customer service on the planet and you can count on them to solve it for you, often free of charge and often for the life of the marker. In fact, Take a SMG-60 to a Tippmann Trailer at a big game than they'll do everything that they can to make sure it works like new for you.

The A-5 out performs the M98c in every way and holds it's own against markers twice it's price.

Oh yes, the price. People are always griping about the price. Well, since it's release, the A-5 has gone from $350+ down to $225 for a stock A-5. They argue that the "A-5 is basically an M98" and "any M98 can be modified to function just like an A-5."

Let's face facts here. If you buy a Model 98 Custom ($125), a vertical adapter ($25), 12 volt Evo2 hopper ($85), a quick strip thumb screw set ($15), and a FullBoar rear cocking knob ($30), you're going to have spent $280+ and guess what, you still have the same bolt system and are still only going to get 9 to 11bps without further upgrades. You might as well save the extra $30 and get an A-5 which not only looks better, but also performs better and is easier to maintain.

And even A-5s with RTs are selling for around $269 now, so the price is coming down. Remember, everything new is more expensive than it should be and once they age a little the price drop inline.

The A-5 is a great High-mid-level marker that can grow with you as you grow as a player. It can hang with the "big dogs" out of the box, but with a little work, you can put together a truly awesome marker.

I hope this helps clear up some misconceptions about the A-5.
Take the Power back! It's time to Take this forum Back from the 1337 flamers, immature idiots and know-it-alls.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Enos Shenk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 January 2004 at 12:41am
Parts comparison (And a little bit of history) of the carbine series
by your pimp, Enos Shenk

KRL and Hway suggested i write this, so here goes nothing. To compare what parts can be interchanged and modified between carbine series guns, its necessary to start with a bit of history so you know how things evolved.

After the success of the SMG and 68-special lines, Tippmann created the first in the carbine series, the Pro-Am. Introduced in 1992, the more compact and modular design was a hit. Picture 1 - Picture 2

Outwardly its almost identical to a Pro-Lite, but there are a few subtle differences. Firstly, the grip does not split in half when removed from the reciever. The trigger and sear are "dropped" in from the top, and the pivot and stop rods are inserted through holes in the sides of the gripframe. The ASA also fits in the back, and the air hose is routed the same as in a Pro-Lite. The grip frame is also held on by push pins instead of bolts. Inwardly, the internals of the Pro-Am are almost identical to a Pro-Lite.

Next came the legendary Pro-Lite. Updating the design of the Pro-Am, the Pro-Lite used a composite grip that split in half to give access to the trigger and sear, it also had a slightly different mounted ASA. Picture

The Pro-Lite was also marketed in a custom configuration that shipped stock with a vertical adapter AND the ASA in the grip. This was dubbed the Mini-Lite, and could run dual tank straight out of the box. But the Mini-Lite was still a Pro-Lite, just with a different name. The reciever even still had Pro-Lite written on it.

Tippmann innovated around this time and created the Factory F/A. The F/A is a heavily modified Pro-Lite. The gripframe is identical to a Pro-Lite frame, but uses a safety with a cam built in. This cam rotates with the safety to block the trigger as a standard safety, put the gun in semi mode, or push the trigger back to where the sear cannot disengage, turning the gun full-auto. However you cant just hold the sear down and have a full-auto gun, the cyclic rate must be limited to feeder speeds. Here is where the large rear sight assembly on an F/A comes into play. The device is called the Shock, and it regulates the guns cyclic rate to keep up with the feeder. The way it works is 2 sears drop down through gaps in the top of the reciever and catch on the top of the heavily milled rear bolt. As the gun begins to cycle, the spring pushes the hammer forward, but catches on the first shock sear. The spring forces the sear forward, pushing an attached piston in an air chamber. The air chamber has a hole drilled through to the adjacent chamber, and the moving rear bolt forces the air out through the hole into the second chamber. Since this takes time, the rate is limited until the shock sear is pushed far enough forward that the sear disengages and the hammer again moves freely. Until it hits the second, shorter, shock sear, where this process is repeated. But this time the air is forced back into the FIRST chamber, pushing the first sear backwards and resetting the system. The second major addition to the F/A is the Star Feeder. The precursor to the cyclone feed, the Star Feed uses the 5-sprocket star in the can to feed balls to the F/A very fast. However the Star Feed operates on spring tension, and must be wound up like a watch every so often. Picture 1 - Picture 2

Again updating the carbine series, the 68-Carbine was introduced. The 68c had more important differences between the previous carbines. It came stock with a .45 frame and bottomline. It used slightly different internals (such as the rear bolt) and a slimmed down and anodized reciever. Instead of the Tippmann name milled onto the side of the reciever, its etched on the 68c. The 68c came out in 3 distinct versions, which were updated as time went on. The first version has no foregrip and uses a barrel-tip front sight. It also uses the Pro-Lite valve configuration. The second version included a foregrip and no barrel tip sight, but still used the Pro-Lite valve. Version 3 was the same as 2, but used the CVX valve, and with regards to the foregrip and feeder elbow is otherwise identical to a Pro-Carbine. Picture 1 - Picture 2

The Pro-Carbine is a merge of the Pro-Lite and the 68-Carbine. The reciever, internals, and grip are absolutely identical to the 68-Carbine. The foregrip and integrated feeder elbow is identical to the one found on the Pro-Lite. Picture (Like you need one)

Now for the parts:


The Pro-Lite and Mini-Lite recievers are absolutely identical, both have Pro-Lite milled on the side.
The Pro-Am reciever is identical in shape and function to the Pro-Lite reciever except for the grip mounting holes are large and not threaded. (nothing 5 minutes with a thread tap cant fix)
The Factory F/A reciever is a heavily modified Pro-Lite reciever and can only be used for a Factory F/A
The 68-Carbine and Pro-Carbine recievers are almost identical except for the gun name etched on the side and the length of the sight rails on the top.


The Pro-Am grip is cast metal one-piece
The Pro-Lite, Mini-Lite and Factory F/A grips are the same, composite plastic and 2-halves with ASA integrated into the grip. (note that the Factory F/A grip has "Safe Semi and Full" on the side, but is identical in function)
The Pro-Lite .45 frame, 68-Carbine and Pro-Carbine grips are identical. Compisite plastic in 2-halves with bottomline mount.


Pro-Am/Pro-Lite/Factory F/A/68-Carbine 1 & 2 -- The prolite valve has 2 valve pins, and 2 cup seals, one at each end of a free-floating valve body. When the valve is struck by the rear bolt, the entire valve assembly moves forward, opening both seals, and directing air forwards and backwards.

68-Carbine 3/Pro-Carbine -- The CVX valve uses air channels cut into the sides of the valve that allows air to pass around between the valve and reciever. The air is released from one spot only, and is routed more effeciently with propellant air firing first, then as the cycle goes on, releasing air backwards to reset the rear bolt. This design also makes air taps for the RT and cyclone feed possible when tapped where the gas is released in the back of the valve.

Rear Bolts:

The Pro-Am, Pro-Lite and Mini-Lite rear bolts are identical.
The Factory F/A uses a milled rear bolt that could theoretically be used in a Pro-Lite or Pro-Am, but a Pro-Lite or Mini-Lite rear bolt cannot be used in a Factory F/A
The 68-Carbine and Pro-Carbine use identical rear bolts

Front Bolts:

As far as i know, the front bolt is iterchangable on any carbine series. Im sure someone will correct me if im wrong here. Im absolutely certain the 68-Carbine and Pro-Carbine is.

Linkage Arm:

The Pro-Am, Pro-Lite, Mini-Lite and Factory F/A use the same linkage
The 68-Carbine and Pro-Carbine use the same linkage.


The Pro-Am, Pro-Lite, Mini-Lite and Factory F/A use identical aluminum powertubes.
The 68-Carbine and Pro-Carbine use identical powertubes.


The Pro-Am uses its own trigger
The Pro-Lite and Mini-Lite use identical triggers.
The Factory F/A uses its own modified trigger.
The 68-Carbine and Pro-Carbine use identical triggers.


All carbine series guns use the same sear.

Rear Sight:

The Pro-Lite, Pro-Am, and Mini-Lite use identical rear sights with the jam screw to fasten them in place.
The Factory F/A rear sight conceals the Shock system and cannot be used on anything else.
The 68-Carbine and Pro-Carbine rear sights are identical, plastic.
Note: No carbine series gun will function without the rear sight in place as it holds the linkage arm in its groove.


The Pro-Am uses a foregrip almost the same as the rest, but it doesnt split in half.
The Pro-Lite, Mini-Lite and Pro-Carbine use the same foregrip with integrated elbow
The Factory F/A uses only the foregrip without the elbow to accomodate the star feed.
The 68-Carbine 2 and 3 use a composite foregrip much like an SL68 that is held on by the barrel pinch. A Factory F/A foregrip will fit on a 68-Carbine, but a Pro-Lite/Pro-Carbine style foregrip will not fit.

Grip bolts:

The Pro-Am uses push pins for gripframe mounting.
All other guns use identical 10-32 threaded bolts.

Identical on all guns:

Velocity screw
Barrel pinch bolt
Cocking Handle
Elbow pinch bolt
End Cap
Rear bolt O-ring

Stuff im not sure about:

Main spring
Main spring guide pin

Edited by Enos Shenk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote <- longBow -> Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 January 2004 at 12:37pm
Ok so I have seen a ton of these threads popping up, so I decided to make my first sticky.... or at-least try

OK the top pistols out right now are( in no order yet)

1. Armotech Zeus( all varients I'll get to that later)
2. 32 Degree .68 Delta/PT variants
3. Core Zx/ PT Pro
4. Sidekick Semi
5. Sheridian PGP and PGP 2

there are afew others like the AGD Sydarm, Palmer Squall, and afew older pistols( like crossmans and nelspots), but sense you are gonna pay around 600 dollars to get one I decided to leave them out.


Armotech Zeus
Ok I am going to flat out say it from all I have read, seen, and shot. The Zeus is where its at for pisols.

They get pretty good shots per C02, and have lots of other fun features. Stay away from the Zeus RIS its just a normal Zeus with a flashlight on it. As for how the new Zeus and the older stack up against each other, from what I hear they are about the same, but the G2 fixes some problems and adds some nice features.

So if you want a semi-auto pistol then the zeus is probably what you are looking for.


32 Degree .68 Delta
I believe this is the newest gun in the pistol scene, and it shows. It has a nice sleek looking design, unlike the sometimes chunky( imo intimadating) looking zeus. As with alot of brand new guns it still seems to have some bugs, mostly small value problems. After these small issues are fixed they seem to be fine pistols.

So they are comparable to a zeus, but with no real upgrades. One plus though is they come with sticky grips so they its very comfortable.


32 Degree various PT designs
In my opinion stay away from these, they just seem to be plagued with problems. And even if you fix all the leaks and such they still dont seem to stand up to zeuses, and they also look kind of stupid.


Just think cheap zeus knock off that is more expensive and has more problems.


Sidekick Semi
Pulls in a close second behind the zeus in the semi guns. A real big plus to these guns is that they are much lighter than the many of the other semis. They do have a few slight problems. Some people say that it doesnt hold its CO2 well, so you may have to pierce a new 12 gram if one has been in there awhile. Another is that where the paintballs are held is kinda small, and if you dont have this on a holster, but in a pocket cheap paint can swell and wont feed.

The big high point with this guns is its weight. Also picks up some points for bieng a classic.


Sheridian PGPs
What can I say, hey your back up gun should be your most reliable gun you own? Well PGPs are that gun. Alot of people look down on them because they are pumps, but dont let that get to you. These are amazing little guns... very little they are defiatly the smallest of all the pisols, but they still are a little hefty. These things are made to last just like Tippmanns. The PGP2 is just a PGP with some nice little things on it, sights bieng a nice improvement.

These guns take third in my book.


Alright well there is is

1. Zeus( either G1 or G2)
2. Sidekick Semi
3. Sheridian PGP

If anyone would like to add anything feal free, I consider this a work in progress, and sorry I couldnt rate some of the older or rarer guns. Dont have enough money to buy them, no one has them so I cant even try them, and they are rare so not alot of reviews on them.

link to this thread, go there alot of people added some great info


OH and there isnt nor will there probably ever be a tippmann pistol

Edited by <- longBow ->

see you all in the mosh pit, or on the paintball fields.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FalloutMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2004 at 9:58am

click Here for the original thread and it has the pictures etc.

The guns:

Automag Classic: The Classic mag is the basic automag. personally i recommend the TKO package on paintballgear.com. The classic has the AIR valve(advanced intergrated regulator if i recall). The AIR valve is the heart of the mag, the valve contains the bolt, valve assembly, and regulator. This means you can run it on co2 or compressed air. co2 can cause problems with the regulator orings which cause leaks(from liquid co2). The standard mag comes bare bones, no barrel, no fore grip, no bottem line. Why? because airgun designs felt if people are just going to replace these parts anyway they might as well not include them to save the consumer money. That is why i recommend the TKO package it has everything you need for it and its generally better priced then other places without the extras. AVG price: 280 new depending on upgrades it can range from 200ish to 400ish

AGD MiniMag: Same as the classic except the body, barrel, and vertical adapter. simlar in price to classics

RT Pro: the RT PRO now comes with X-Valves stock and soon the ULE(ultra light engineering) aluminum bodies. the x-valve is the same thing as the ReTro valve but is aluminum rather then stainless steel. the ReTro is the fastest recharging valve of its type. the regulator recharges so fast the faster you shoot the higher the fps(the most is about +15 fps and proper chronographing is used to make sure of the top speed increase). Because of this any mag with the retro valve CANNOT use co2 AT ALL. it will suck it too fast for any regulator to keep liquid co2 out of the gun and will destroy the orings. AVG price 500-600 new(depends on whats stock on it if you want all the latest stuff pm me and ill give you a couple dealers that can give you all the latest things for them) avg used: about 400-500

EDIT: there is now an RT Custom package directly from airgun the max price for everything on it is like 575 or something which is cheap like woah so buy it!

E-Mag: I happen to own one of these and couldnt be happier with it. The Emag comes stock with x valve as well. the EMAG is different from other mags and any other electronic gun on the market. The Emag can switch from manual to electronic with the flip of a switch. while i havent found much use for that besides scewing around with the trigger it might be for some who forget to charge the NiMH battery pack(the front grip). The E-Mag is also unique in its magnetic trigger. the emag has 3 magnetic positions. one in the rail above the trigger and one in the top of the trigger these control the return force. with this the heaviest portion of the pull is the first contact this makes for a unique feel. you can have as many as 4 magnets in the rail or 1(or one with a buffer for a super super light trigger) to adjust the weight of the pull. the other 1 is in the middle of the trigger. when you pull the trigger the magnet trips an HES sensor in the frame which fires the gun. this means a unique feel without the annoying mouse click most other electros have(like my gz but i like that too). AVG new: anywhere from 800-100 Used about 600 range

X-Mag: formerly known as the Extreme until another company complained about having the same name for one of their guns. This is AGD's Flagship marker. Its very similar to the E-Mag except for the intergrated aluminum body and rail(all one piece not 2) and ACE eye. With the creation of the level 10 bolt(being discussed later) chops will be rare with DUAL antichop features(ace and level 10) thousands of mags have shot an uncountable number of paintballs with virtually zero chops and rare breakages with level 10 alone(when properly setup). AVG price new: about 1300 or so USED: because of its rareness it goes used for basically the same price

RT: Before the RT Pro there was the RT. it was different from any other mag with an air passage inside the gun. because of the valve design it was incompatable with any other mag hence the creation of the ReTro Valve. With the ReTro valve came the end of the RT. AVG price new: 0(they dont make it any more) AVG price used 300-400 now the


Level 10: Level 10 is a replacement bolt and powertube tip for the mag. the way it works is with the spring and carrier when the bolt hits a not fully fed ball it wont be able to push thru and with a piece in the bolt stem cut out it will vent the air out of the valve and the gun will reset and be ready to fire again. this was made because of the mis-informed public that mags would chop. with this not only can your gun not chop(i have shot grapes multiple times before it eventually got pushed into the barrel and fired out) it will also lessen breaks in the barrel(which is still better prevented by proper paint to barrel match or just a larger bore barrel). Level 10 will work on all automags. around 50-70 dollars

Y-Grip: the Y-Grip is AGD's Newest trigger frame. With the recent release of ergonomic grip frames from other makers(WDP etc). This is AGD's updated version of the Z-grip. the Z-grip when released a couple years ago wasnt very popular and only about 500 were ever released. about 120 if i recall is the cost

AGD Intelliframe: This has been AGD's upgrade trigger frame for years now and is stock on RT-Pros. The intelliframe has a switch that when properly wired everytime you pull the trigger it can activate your rev, warp feed, whatever(however it wouldnt be effective on a halo or evo2 because the way they work). Personally if i owned a mechanical mag i would have this frame. about 115 depending on where you go

ULT(Ultra-Light Trigger)- With level 10 AGD can now make the ULT which can lighten the pull to the point where it could be walkable. however this often can cause "chuffing" basically short stroking. this is a recent release by agd so i dont know too much about it. no idea what it costs i dont want it(its no use to me on my emag so i dont bother looking at price)

ULE body: with Airgun designs now trying to make their guns back into the mainstream they are trying to "fix" all the complaints people had. Because of this the have made it impossible to chop, and super light(these guns get lighter then FLY angels, and other guns, my emag weighs less then 2 pounds) the ULE body is aluminum with cocker threaded barrel and angel feed tube and ball detents. it was also just recently released in a warp feed version(note that the rail has to be milled for it which isnt that hard). costs about 120ish

AGD Slug Body: Its Huge. Its ugly. its supposed to be. AGD made this for people to custom mill and annodize. i have one and milled it in the Deadly wind V1 Chord style. Agd is also selling the V2 chord bodies. slug: 100,

custom bodies: depends on what style you want. Other company upgrades, etc

Proteam products has a series of mags as well which are all the same as the ones i mentioned but they have aluminum bodies with stainless steel sleeves if i recall.

I wouldnt buy ANY aftermarket valve products, they either do nothing performance wise or make it worse. AGD will not warrenty mags with aftermarket valves etc and will charge you if its the cause of the problem to replace it with the stock one the last time i checked the warrenty(it doesnt really apply to me sense everything i have on my mag is agd parts)

Pressure: despite the common misconception mags run at low pressures. the regulator takes 600 psi as a minimum for reliable firing. thats because you need about 200 psi higher then the operating pressure. the mag runs at about 400 psi and hits the ball with 65 psi or less.

Technical stuff: this animation should show how all mags work basically

http://www.pbreview.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid= 417519

the classic mag: http://www.airgun.com/downloads/valveexplodedview.pdf  
Retro Valve: http://www.airgun.com/downloads/retroexploded1.pdf  
E-Mag: http://www.airgun.com/downloads/emagexploded.pdf  
Classic Manual: http://www.airgun.com/Images/automan.pdf  
blowups: http://www.airgun.com/Images/rtblowup.pdf  
RT-Pro Manual: http://www.airgun.com/Images/rtmanual.pdf  
E-Mag manual: http://www.airgun.com/downloads/emaginstructions.pdf  
Historic Posts(good laughs in some, others give some history on products, gives you a good feel of what AGD is all about): http://www.automags.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forum id=5  
Parabolic feed plug info: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadi d=12911  
ULT installation etc: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadi d=96538  
anohter ULT thing: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadi d=95598  
Some more stuff about disassembly: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadi d=67599 
Tolerances for each mag and level 10(dont recommend reading this if you have no idea about technical stuff): http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadi d=67604 
Policy on EURO X-mags(i dont think anyone should need to read this here but its intresting, atleast i think it is): http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadi d=59031
Level 10 Install Movie:  http://www.automags.org/~Miscue/level10.mpeg  
Everything Level 10: http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml  
Gallery of mags: http://www.airgun.com/Gallery/  
AGD Museum: http://www.airgun.com/museum/  
the AGD Forum(note tom kaye the owner posts there quite often himself): www.automags.org  
the AO(automags.org) picture thread: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=5895  

<I activated the links, although one Link shows "Forbidden"><KRL>

EDIT: and i fixed the fact that it changed got rid of all the paragraphs for no reason lol

Edited by FalloutMan
"They were convicted in federal court of pennsylvania for a telemarketing scam involving invention and patent fraud."
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EmVeePee View Drop Down

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EmVeePee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 February 2004 at 7:33pm

All you want to know about E-Cockers

I wrote the FAQ myself with help from others at PBN. I will add and edit as I have time.

I want to make this because I'm tired of people asking the same questions.

1. Q: Are black delrin bolts bad for eblade eyes?
A: No, a black one will work just as good as a white one, no matter what. Studies have been conducted, experiments and theroies exist, black and white delrin work exactly the same.

2. Q: Whats the difference bewteen A Worrblade and EBlade.
A: The WorrBlade comes with a delrin bolt and a hammer with a lug. It has a double finger style trigger and the frame has got a built in dove tail mount. The trigger guard is slightly different and offer bigger space for your fingers. The electronics and internals are the exact same and you get the very same eblade manual supplied with both

3. Q: Whats the advantages of a delrin/nylatron bolt, light pump arm and rear block. And a smooth ram?
A: The difference is weight. The lighter the bolt, pump arm and rear block the faster the gun can cycle. Really you don't need a super-light gun for speed because it will cycle quite quickly. However it is strongly recomended that you put a delrin/nylatron bolt on there, and yes sometimes cycle rates will be affected. Also, cocking pressure could be lowered with lighter externals. Now for the ram. Most high end rams on the market today will get your cocker to high rates of fire, among the list are palmers, belsales 44. magnum, freeflow's custom SMC, kapp fat ram, shocktech, and vantrepes custom SMC. The main things to look for in a ram are a smooth stroke, a lower operating pressure, and higher cycling rate. Smoother stroke is obtained by having a well polished internal bore, a lower operating pressure is acheived by having a larger internal diameter, and the higher cycling rate is achieved by a combination of the aforementioned and how well the orings seal inside the ram.

4. Q: What are QEVs?
A: QEV's stand for Quick Exaust Valves. You usually buy a pair and add them onto your ram. They go on both ends. What they do is release the used air thats used to cock your gun back. This way the exhaust air isn't forced back through the solenoid to be exhausted. This raises your cps (cycles per second) and gives you better air efficiency. For a picture of a QEV click the link,
For more information: http://home.kc.rr.com/theelectrician/ (From The Electrician)

5. Q: My eye isn't working on my eblade!
A: Usually this is caused by dirt and debris on the eye. Use a cotton swab (Q-Tip) and clean it off. It is also possible that your wire is disconnected or it is pinched. Make sure it isn't pinched by taking the gripframe off. To see if it is disconnected, take the right side of the grips off and check if the gray wire is connected to one of the slots on the top left of the board. Replacement eyes can be found at planet eclipse
http://www.planeteclipse.com .If it still doesn't work try cleaning the BACK of the eye. paint or dirt on the back will cause the eye to short and read incorrectly. You can try to take out the eye and boil the tip of the eye in water for a couple of mins to clear any paint from the front and back of the eye.

6. Q: Whats the best e-cocker?
A: Preference, Preference, Preference. There is no best, but some are better than others, some of the nicer models out on the market today are Freeflows, Orracles, Eclipse, Race Half-Blocks, Works, and Evolution.

7. Q: Is there a 90*/Space frame for the eblade?
A: Soon to be released Evolve Paintball is making them,

8. Q: Anyone want to trade/buy my gun? Anyone want to sell me their gun?
A: No; No.

9. Q: My delrin bolt swelled?
A: Heat will cause your delrin bolt to swell. Paintball gun oil however will not cause delrin to swell, the reason being is delrin absorbs *water*, since there is room in the polymer, chemically, for a water molecule. Paintball gun oil isnt chemically like water, and delrin obviously isn't porous, ergo, little to no absorption of oil. Taken from Doc Nickles website.

10. Q: Where can I get those cool pnuematic covers naughty dogs use?
A: E-Mail
GSLiMpBiZkIt@AOL.com - They aren't the exact ones, but they are made out of 3mm thick neoprene with a nylon layer. If you want the exact ones, you need to e-mail doggygear@hotmail.com

11. Q: I want to make a kick *** electro, what should I use?
A: Well first you need to look for certain things in certain parts. Some parts have better air effieincy, some have better speed, but you always want to read your manuals, and see what's recommended. When choosing parts, always look at weight. Weight is a big issue; lighter moving parts usually mean it can cycle faster, and use a bit less air. When choosing a LPR, look for one that can cycle fast, maintain a good pressure, reliable, and easily adjustable. When choosing a ram, look for one with a light, smooth pull. A good ram is one that you can blow very lightly and ram shoots back or forward. Now you are going to want to get a delrin bolt. Delrin is a light material, and will hold up. You never want to use a bolt that isn't delrin or nylatron. Delrin has many advantages, the main being that its puts a lot less wear on your breech, lighter - therefore faster, and creates a secure fit without blowback (Most of the time). Internals. You generally need a heavier hammer, some have set screws on the side, so the lug doesn't wander off. For most E-Cockers, you need a flat polished lug. For the springs, you need to tinker with them yourself, Maddman and Nelson springs are probably the two best. You either want a valve that will cycle fast, or will produce A+ air efficiency... Inline reg, you want something that recharges fast, reliable, and maintains a good pressure, also with a tourney lock. Now for the hoppers. The gun will fire as fast as the gun will feed it, so the faster you can cyle the gun the faster the hopper your going to need, the Halo B is the fastest in mass production now, the Evolution 2 is right behind it, the 12 volt Revolutions bring up the rear. On a side note there is another hopper being developed known as the Q-loader which can feed faster than a Halo-B

12. Q: My EBlade Cover Broke!
A: Planet Eclipse Planet sells them for 40 USD. Online Store> Manufacturer> Eclipse. Scroll down, they have the black one and the 2nd one under that is nickel plated (chrome) without a picture.

13. Q: Any new grips for the E-Blade, Trigger?
A: Planet Eclipse gave hints they were making new grips or a new frame or something (Was very broad). However as of now, there are no grips or trigger for the eblade, and you shouldn't hold your breath for one. Hopefully the new grips are colored.

14). Q: My gun is drilled for eblade eyes, can I use the holes for my new race?
A: The race eyes are on both sides of the gun, and they go n the very bottom of the breech (Or it just wouldn't work, since it is break-beam). So no, you have to retap the gun. Same is true for the opposite.

15). Q. How do I prevent my eye from dieing?
A. Plastic bag your gun when you're playing in the rain. But even better, paint the back of the eye and the eye wire band in liquid electrical tape. 5 dollars for a can for 50000 eyes at home depot.

16). Q: What kind of batteries should I use?
A: Well if you use a eblade, it is recomended that you use duracell ultras, but you're paying more for the battery wrapper than the performance. You can do to a Dollar Tree and buy some Panasonic Heavy Duty 2/$1. The price is better and you will get a larger reserve of power because you have more batterys, but you may need to change them more often then others.

17). Q: I don't have a hole for my gauge on my ASA, but I want to see my pressure.
A: Most regulators have OP ports on them. If yours does not, then u will want to use a process called "low riding" or "low gauging" your gun. To "low ride" your gun remove your lpr, remove the plug on the bottom of your front block, replace the open spaces with 90* elbows used for steel hose, turn elbow toward the bottom all the way in and back it up so the opening is facing forward, screw in the other elbow all the way and then back it up until the opening is facing straight out of the left hand side of your gun, put a gauge on the top elbow and your lpr on the bottom, make sure to use thread sealant, reconnect all hoses, and voila, now when u gas up your gun you can see the pressure. To "low gauge" the gun simply remove the bottom tap and put the steel elbow there with the gauge on it without removing your lpr. For pictures of a low riding gun click the link,

18). Q: Gun not recocking
A: This could be because your cocking rod is not in far enough. Screw it in as tight as it goes. If it still does not recocker, take the head of it, unscrew the set screw inside of it, and screw the head in, then the set screw. Also your cocking pressure may be too low. Turn you low pressure regulator up (the reg on the front of the gun) and try again. Try removing your bolt, and put a 1/8th alan wrench into the hole on the top of the gun. turn it clockwise. You are adjusting the lug. Keep doing 1/4 of turns until it catches. Before you do ANY of this, change the battery. Your 5-way solenoid valve could be stuck. Try stripping the solenoid and lubing the spool O-Rings with Dow Corning 33.

19). Q. Does anyone sell aftermarket triggers for a eblade? Like a trigger like the worrblade?
A. Your best bet is to call WGP and ask for one.. they'd end up charging you. I believe it is around 20 dollars.

20). Q. Will a WAS board for a timmy fit in a eblade?
A. It will fit... but it won't work without reprogramming and major board modifications... so no.

21). Q: How do I take out my valve? (Thanks to ParisInFlames)
1. Take off beaver tail
2. Remove cocking rod
3. Remove IVG
4. Remove spring
5. Remove bolt
6. Turn hammer lug counter clockwise till hammer will come out of gun
7. Insert valve tool/ allen wrench
8. Rotate counter clock wise till valve guide (hollow allen plug) comes out
9. Remove trigger
10. Remove tiny allen plug underneath trigger
11. Tilt gun up with ivg side toward ground
12. Catch valve, valve stem, and valve spring

22). -Rechargables at a glance-
With the price of high quality batteries as high as it is, many people are turning to rechargable batteries. But there are so many! Which ones are good? Well your going to want a 9.6 or 9.4 volt. Beware, although some batteries say 9v, they mean the 9 volt size, and could be a 7.4 volt or 8.6. Now try and get a battery with around 170mAh. I recomend Java series rechargables. They clock in at 170mAh and 9.6 volts. It's been said that they can go over 20,000 rounds... I kind of doubt that. Now another part of the puzzle is chargers. MAHA makes a 10x 9v charger... one of the best ones out there. If you skimp out on the charger, your batteries will not charge all the way and you can't maximize their potential. Also there can be hazardous situations with a cheap charger. They can also make your battery life sink.






For F5/TF5 help, visit
www.kcpaintballpage.com - he seems to be the only one still working on them. He also has a timing guide up at http://www.kcpaintballpage.com/files/sandridgehelp.htm .

For Eblade:

For Racegun:

For Freekick:

Special credit to niteHawk and parisinflames7

Thanks to everyone.

All use of this document and all posts within it's thread are to be cited and credited to it's original origin and writers. Example: Taken from -Link-, written by PBNation ECocker forum.


The Race is either a dome switch (old-style), which is the same switch as was used on the old shockers, or a leaf switch, which is the same switch used on Angels, etc. It uses a spring return.

The Eblade uses an optical break-beam switch that has no moving parts. It uses a magnetic return.

The Race, ANS, and ProPaintball frames are all the same technology (RaceGun), in a differnt package. The only differences are that the Pro uses a 9v battery (although can be upgraded to the rechargable), and the ANS does not have the "pin" behind the trigger to activate the switch, but has a thicker trigger ithere.

Also - I'll give you a writeup I did a while ago - there may be somethings you can grab from it for your FAQ:

Race Vs Eblade vs. F5 vs. Uprising

All of the E-Cockers out there are no more maintenance then any other.... once it is set up correctly - as long as you don't mess with anything, it'll treat you well.

That all said, get whichever one you like - feel the trigger of each, pay to have someone set it up who know what they are doing, do not learn how to change the settings on the gun, and you'll be happy until the day you buy something new :-)

Since you most probably will NOT leave it alone and will want to mess with it, you have a few options...

Race and Eclipse
The Race and E-Blade work (for the most part) the same way except for how it physically trips the sear using a solenoid, and how to adjust the timing of the grip. They both use a solenoid off the front block to re-cock the gun. Putting aside everyone’s opinions on which sear trip method is better, the only real thing you want to look at is do you want to have a program on your computer to adjust all your timing options (Race), or do you want to navigate a small LCD screen to change values (Eclipse) - and which trigger feel do you like better (Magnetic for the eclipse, and angel switch for the race).

The Centerflag uses a solenoid to drop the sear, then the same solenoid is redirected to pull on the timing rod, which re-cocks the gun - it uses a mechanical 4-way, but it is pulled by the solenoid in the grip, not using a solenoid on the front block This way the entire firing cycle is controlled via the circuit board. It'll run just as fast as the other electros out there, if set up to, and if you can feed it. Some people don't like the idea of using a mechanical switch to re-cock the gun, some do...
Although the timing rod could come loose, and therefore mistimed the gun under normal use, it doesn't happen often enough to worry about in the real world. There is no "adjustments" to be made by the end user... in other words, they set it up for you, and that's that...

The F5/TF5.
This is the oldest of the group. Again, just as fast as the others.... differs in that it trips the sear using a pneumatic ram in the grip, and NOT a solenoid. It does use a solenoid in the front to re-cock. Looks aside (as that is subjective) it is just as easy to run as the others... any adjustments that you might want to make are done by moving some sensors on the ram, pretty much that's all the adjustability it has once delivered to your door. The Pre-TripleA F5's chronically suffered from poor wiring/soldering, but my assumption is that Triple A has fixed those issues.

All 4 of them if put on the same base gun, will shoot just as fast as the other - speed is a mechanical function of the moving mass to recock the gun, and how long it takes a ball to get into the chamber. All of the above (except the Centerflag currently) can utilize an eye to read when there is a ball in the chamber - thus maximizing your ROF to as fast as your loader can shove paint into the breech. The Race uses a two sided break-beam eye, meaning it can see all paint equally well. The F5 and Eclipse use single sided reflective eyes.. the _may_ have problems with dark shelled paint not reflecting the beam back, although Eclipse does allow you to fine tune what the acceptable reflective ness is, thus allowing it to use most paints - but that may require an adjustment on your part every time you change paints (although in practice it probably won't be changed that often)

Taken from niteHawk from the E-cocker forum WITH permission.

The Original Thread for this Post is:
http://www.tippmann.com/wwf75/forum_posts.asp?TID=71728& PN=1 

< =>

Edited by KRL15
"Any fool can criticize, condemn, and complain - and most fools do."
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Gatyr View Drop Down
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Strike 1 - Begging for strikes

Joined: 06 July 2003
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gatyr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2004 at 9:03pm

That’s right, I stole Fallout Mans idea and I have made an “All you could ever want to know about impulses” thread, and am going to make my own, hopefully we can have someone make a thread for the other markers.


First I will go over the common types of Impulses, then the upgrades, then the places to get the aftermarket impulses, and i might throw in the "anatomy" of the impulse somewhere.


Stock Impulse: This impulse is not a very good gun stock. It comes with an either very long, or very stiff trigger pull for an electronic marker. The stock bolt is aluminum so it is likely to scratch the inside of your impulse, the high rise is way to high, if you get the horizontal reg it makes you impy way to tall. If you decide to replace your bolt (which you should) then your balance is off and you need to buy a heavier hammer. Yay. This Impulse is not worth buying unless you have the extra money to get the proper upgrades right off the bat. Price is 400 w/o the vert reg and 440 with it.




Vision Impulse: This is the same impulse as the stock version just with an eye that can detect (very poorly) paint. It has trouble seeing dark colored paint and is a better idea to sit and wait For the Wicked Air Sportz Equalizer board.


(pic same as stock, just with a pretty pink eye cover)


Rat jr. or rjr Impulse: This impulse was made originally (to my understanding) for those that wanted the milling of the 02 rat but already had an impulse. They could buy this and switch out the mods they had on their impulse with the stock parts on the rat body and then hopefully sell the stock impulse. E-paintballoutlet also had the option to add a “super pack” for $25 more. You would get a no rise feed neck, Vodoo bolt, ti pull pin, brass hammer, tapeworm, blade trigger, sticky grips, and high volume front cap. You would get around $100 worth of upgrades for $25 extra. They quickly found out that not to many people would go for their original idea so now the Rat jr. is available for $525.



Rat Impulse: this was the basis for the rat jr. This is arguably the most popular impulse because of the milling and great deal epbo gives you when you buy from there. You will receive about $289 worth of ups including Custom Rat Milled Body, Custom Rat Front Cap, Custom Rat Feed Tube, Vertical Reg -Freak Barrel, Blade Trigger,  Sticky Grips, Vertical Full Flow, Stubby VooDoo bolt, New Designs Slick Shaft, SP Brass Hammer, and Lifetime Warranty. Epbo will also install and test any upgrade you choose to buy at the time you buy this marker


The Nasty Impulse: The nasty comes with its own original milling and thats pretty much the only thing unique you will be getting with this Impulse, although it is difficult to find a trigger like this one has. It comes with solid color delrin voodoo bolt, SP gel grips, Tapeworm, Your choice: magnetic trigger or blade trigger, Freak barrel. Not to bad a deal but you get nice high profile high rise, and a horizontal max-flo. Yipee, now you impulse is as tall as your little sister. But they give you the option to hav a vert reg installed for extra money. This isnt a bad deal seing as how you get aprox. $200 worth of ups including the freak barrel plus the, in my opinion, great milling for only 224 more than the stock impulse. And if you decide to add the vert reg, which you should, then its like buying the stock impulse, buying all the upgrades, and then getting the milling for free. Cost is only $624.



The Adrenalin: This is a great impulse. You get New Style Adrenalin Version "Cricket" Vision Board Adrenalin Bolt (Black Derlin) with Adrenalin Gel Decal, Adrenalin Stainless Hammer, Derlin Valve, Adrenalin GP Slide Check Choice of Adrenalin Low Rise or Adrenalin Hi Rise, Adrenalin Grip Frame, Adrenalin Chrome Button, Worlds First ever 4th Axis Impulse body, Choice of Adrenalin Vertical Adapter or Adrenalin 15 Degree Adapter Adrenalin, Single Trigger (for single frames) or Double Trigger (for double frames), Adrenalin Gas Through Grip - Adrenalin Rear Hammer Cap, Adrenalin Bolt Pin and Adrenalin Threaded Head, Adrenalin Stainless Steel Screw Set, Adrenalin Front Cap, Matching freak barrel, Blasted Finish, Color matched soft-gel sticky grips with Adrenalin Gel Decals. This is a great deal for $849. This is the place i bought my stock(i didnt know better at the time) impulse, and they have great customer service. Although it does come with a horizontal max flo, i would still recomend this over mont any other imo



The Strange Impulse: This is a sick impulse. It is made at Smart Parts, but i'm sure you could find someone who is selling on and recieve in less than a month. This impulse is used by the current world cup x-ball champions, Team strange. It comes with Custom Milled Body, Matching Freak Barrel Front and Back, Matching Twister Top, Max-Flo Vertical Regulator, Matching Vertical Gas-thru Handle, Short Delrin Bolt, Titanium Bolt Pin, Brass Hammer Assembly, Integrated Low Pressure Regulator (LPR), Tapeworm with LPR Fitting, Smart Grip, Blade Trigger. The LPR that comes with this marker is considered by many to be the best and is called the mini-max-flo. It is different from the SP LPR sold for impulses that do not come with an LPR because the mini max flo cannot be sold seperately and is better, in some way i just dont know how.



note: that lpr in the picture apears to be a jackhammer II LPR not the mini max flo. the mini max flo looks more like this:



Planet Eclipse Impulse: This impulse is made by the same great company that brought us that beast of a cocker, the eclipse e-blade. This is a very well built impulse that includes Vision Cricket Board, Vertical Max-Flo, Blade Trigger, Delrin Bolt, SP vision, low rise, Freak Barrel, and now, you will get an eclipse LPR with your impulse. And you get all this for $790, not a bad deal in my opinion.

Predator Impulse: This is one sexy impulse in my opinion. It is an awsome deal for what you get which includes Freak Barrel, New Designz 15* ASA, custom Logo Engraved, Predator Valve Cap, Tarantula Low or High Rise, Custom four tipped bolt, Slickshot Ram, RIP Valve, titanium pull pin, Brass Hammer, WAS Equilizer Board when/if it comes out, your choice of Werm, Predator, or stock frame. About $1300 worth of stuff for only $810. If you have the money and like the looks of this over the adrenalin Impulse, this would be the better deal.




Freak Factory Impulse: Made by SP themselves, its sure to be special in some way. With the FF you get Freak Factory Bolt, Brass Hammer, Titanium Hammer Piston, Titanium Bolt Pin, Vision Board, Shorty Grip Frame, Blade Trigger, Freak Factory Gas-Thru Grip, and all for the price of $995. You guessed it. Smart Parts it ripping you off again, only not in performance this time, in price. you are paying for aprox. $400 woth of ups, and 200 for that ugly milling. Not an impulse i would recomend to anyone.




Action Village Impulse: This is basically a stock impulse with a trigger job, anoe and (ugly)milling, and smart parts great vision eye. Action Village doesnt have the best customer service and obviously doesnt make a good impulse.


(i cant post a pic but go here to see  it.)


Pretty much dont get anytihng that isnt mentioned above, OK?


Bolts: there are many aftermarket bolts, for one reason, the stock bolt sucks. Its to heavy, destroys the inside of your impulse, and is horribly inefficient. But, because there are so many aftermarket bolts, and they are all pretty much the same, so i will only go over the special ones.


Evil Bolt and Pull Pin: This is a bolt made by our friends at evil. It comes with a oull pin of its own and has its own design. It has an o-ring at the front of the bolt to reduce the blowback you shouldnt have with your impulse. The "cool little twisty design" is there to "reduce surface friction or something" as evil put it. I havent seen to many of these being used and there must be a reason for that.



New Designz Stubby bolt: Not to much to explain, basically the same thing as the equalizer bolt, just a replacement bolt for the strange impulse or for those that wanted the sic shorty milling.



Hammers and the hammer assembly:


There are a few aftermarket hammers available, partly, for the same reason as why there are so many aftermarket bolts, partly because with a delrin bolt, your setup is a little lighter, meaning your impulse will be a little offset. Anyway, the aftermarket hammers are all pretty much the same, except for the material and weight. I have the Smart Parts brass hammer. This along with my delrin bolt i can get 1500-1600 shots off a 68-45 tank. I have no problems with this hammer, and it has performed great for me. I doubt i will ever try another hammer. The rat-hole hammer, sold at e-paintball outlet, seems to be the favorite of the hammers, and my guess is that it is because it comes with the all mighty Rat impulse. It seems like a good hammer, but i dont know. Those are the two hammers that i feel are worth mentioning. Now, to the ram shaft. There is only one replacement to the stock version and that is the Slik-Shot. This is, for some, the most important or their first upgrade they get. It eliminates FSDO and ups the efficiancy a little. It is a great upgrade, but i wouldnt recomend getting it before a new bolt.



My first thought when it got to my house,"", i didnt know what to think, especially since i didnt order it. My parents did as a present. When i took it out of what seemed to be the pretiest cardboard box ever, i noticed the weight compared to the stock impulse frame. It wasn't much lighter than the stock frame, so i was somewhat disapointed. Part of the reason i ordered it was because i wanted my impy to be as light as possible. So before i took the adventure and risk of taking my imp apart, i decided to play around with the frame. When i first started pulling the trigger, i noticed that the trigger felt somewhat cheap, and the loud, dull sound of the plastic trigger hitting the frame didnt please me to much either. But the trigger was nice and light, and long, but that could be adjusted.

Installing was easy. Just replace the other frame. The adjusting of the trigger was a little bit more dificult. OTB had put loctite on the pre-trave screw, red loctite. I had fun trying to get it to move, alot of fun. By fun i mean trouble, if you didn't know. Once i got that going, and set to a place i like, i tried to adjust the post travel. Instead of having a screw in the tigger like most other triggers/frames, OTB set up a screw at the top of the frame to prevent the trigger from moving forward to much, instead of moving backward. I think to myself that that was new and trippy enough, so i didnt criticize it, to much. But when i figured out i needed to have the pre-travel really long and the spot that activates the switch needs to be really close to the frame, i was seriously peeved. I felt like saying screw it and selling it on IOG for a huge mark up since there seemed to be a shortage. But i decided to try and use the allen wrench they give instead of using pliers to loosen the loctite. I try and adjust the triiger and the allen wrench wont move the screw. I could get it up in the trigger, and turn it, but it wouldnt adjust the trigger. I said i dont care anymore and just left it as long as it was.

I go outside to shoot it, and i shoot it. I easily maxed out the 13.7 cap on my board, many times. But after a while, the trigger would begin to not reset itself all the way. As long as it was and it needed to be longer. I was begining to hate this frame. I make it even longer, and it was fine. No more non-reseting. But now i am shooting a quarter inch trigger pull.

I give the frame a 4 out of 10 because of the experience. I'l up it up to a 6 or 7 if i can adjust the trigger pull, but nothing above that because of what happened.

Tuning your LPR, as told by Urban Knight of IOG:

Degas the marker.

1.Set your dwell the 12 oclock position. Or if you have a cricket board, set the dwell to whatever is best for your Impulse.
2.Turn you LPR all the way in (yes clockwise, in , in in)
3.Turn you maxflow reg so it barely is functional.
4.Add air, and slowly turn your maxflow to 150 psi. Add paint and chrono. Adjust your FPS to 280 ish with the dwell (you should still have the LPR all the way in).
5.Now back the LPR all the way out (till it is loose)
6.Turn up maxflow to 200-225
7.Slowly turn up LPR(clockwise) until you gain velocity to 280, when you first get to 280, you may have shootdown, so give the LPR an additional 1/4 turn. This should set it.

Problems with bolt stick:
1. Try lowering your dwell, and upping your input pressure.
2. Buy a tapeworm and let it do the work.
3. Buy some aka oil and put that on your bolt(even if you have a delrin bolt. The bolt doesnt absorb the oil for some reason so it wont swell up)
4. Buy a high flow adapter(angled or vertical) from new designz.

1.Nasty- www.paintballwholesalers.com
2.Adrenalin- www.buypb.com
3.TKO Series- www.paintballgear.com
4.Toxic** www.toxicperformance.com
5.Ton Ton- www.tontonacyd.com
6.Rat- www.e-paintballoutlet.com, www.ratguns.com
7.Rat Jr.- www.e-paintballoutlet.com, www.ratguns.com
8.Gothic- www.fireballmountain.com
9.Standard- www.smartparts.com
10.Vision- www.smartparts.com
11.Freak Factory- www.smartparts.com
12.Strange- www.smartparts.com, www.teamstrange.net
13.Meteor- www.meteorpaintball.com
14.Eclipse- www.planeteclipse.com
15.Python- www.performance-paintball.com/python.htm, www.southernpb.com
16.Vert Reg- www.smartparts.com
17.Bottom Reg- www.smartparts.com
18.Demonic- www.roughneckpaintball.com
19.Evil- www.xpaintball.com
20.Thunder- www.gamefacepaintball.com
21.32 Degrees- www.firstcallpaintball.com/detail.aspx?ID=846
22.Predator- www.imperialpaintball.com
23.Cash Money- www.mikespaintball.com
24.Teardrop- www.fireballmountain.com
25.SIC- www.hypersportworks.comwww.sicpaintball.com
26. Atomix- www.atomixpaintball.com

And thanks to DRAGON and Shut Down for posting the links up

Dont buy the ipmulse. It sucks. I wrote this when I was blinded by the hype. Its a terrible thing to own, and there are much better markers for the same price or just a lil bit more. PM me if you have a question.

Edited by Gatyr
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I’ve made this post from my past experience with autocockers and hope to help out any who may have any questions concerning a mechanical autococker.

The autococker is one of most well known paintball markers on the market today. Unfortunately many people have a very common misconception that the autococker is prone to break downs and very complicated to maintain. I will attempt to clarify these misunderstandings associated with the autococker.

Parts on an autococker and what they do

3-way– The 3way redirects the air to the ram to open and close the breech. IT also acts as a valve to release the air from the ram.
3- Ways

ASA (Air Source Adaptor) – The airsource adapter is what attaches the regulator to the autococker. It can come in either a 15 degree ASA , a standard ASA, or a mini ASA.
Standard Vertical ASA
15 Degree ASA
Mini ASA and Frontblock

Back-Block – The back block holds the bolt in place and also is what pulls the cocking rod back.
Back Blocks

Ball Detent – The ball detent prevents the marker from double feeding. Ball detents can either be a ball bearing detent or a nubbin detent.
Ball Detent
Nubbin Ball Detent

Barrels – The barrels on cockers are a little different then most other markers. You need to make sure you have a good bore to paint fit otherwise the paintball will roll right out the barrel, you’ll get breaks and bad consistency. Barrels come in either 1 piece, 2 piece, and kits. Kits either have an insert based system or a back based system.
1 Piece Barrel
Two Piece Barrel
Insert based Barrel System
Back Based Barrel System

Beavertail – This protects players from getting hit with the cocking rod and also prevents people from pressing on the back to get their marker to shoot hot.
Beaver Tails

Bolt – The bolt is attached to the back block by a pullpin. Each time the backblock is pulled back the bolt is also pulled back and it allows for another ball to drop into the feed tube. The air from the marker is forced through the bolt and out into the barrel.
Pull Pins

Cocking Rod – The cocking rod is what cocks the paintball marker. It is screwed directly into the hammer. When the back block is pulled back it pulls the cocking rod with it and cocks the marker.
Cocking Rods

Front Blocks – The front block is the piece that holds the pneumatics on the cocker. The LPR, RAM, and 3-way are all located on the front block.
Front Block

Grips – Grips are on the outside of the grip frame and give you a good comfortable grip on the trigger frame.

Hammer – The hammer is the part that slams into the exhaust valve and allows air to pass into the marker. The cocking rod is directly screwed into the hammer.

Hammer Lug – The hammer lug is the part that actually catches the sear and allows the marker to remain cocked until the trigger is pulled. The lug is screwed directly into the hammer and can be either flat for a crisp trigger pull or rounded for a smooth trigger pull.
Hammer Lug

Hinge Trigger Frame – The hinge frame has come about in recent years due to people’s complaint about the feel of the sliding trigger. The hinge trigger works like triggers on most other markers. Instead of it being pulled in a parallel line to the markers body it is pulled like any other trigger. Unlike a sliding frame the timing rod is pushed forward on a hinge.
WGP Hinge Frame
Eclipse Hinge Frame

Inline Regulator – The regulator brings the output pressure of your tank to the desirable pressure of the autococker. Generally around 350psi.

IVG (Velocity Adjuster) – The IVG is located in the rear of the autococker body in the lower tube. You can either screw it clockwise which will exert more force on the main spring which will increase velocity, or screw it counterclockwise which will lower velocity.

Low Pressure Regulator (LPR) – The LPR regulates the air pressure that goes to the 3way. This brings the pressure down even lower than the inline regulator.
Low Pressure Regulators

Main Spring – Directly behind the IVG is the main spring. This spring controls how much force the hammer will hit the exhaust valve with.
Main Springs

Pump Arm – The pump arm is the rod running down the cockers body that is attached to the ram. This rod via the ram pushes back the back block and cocks the gun.
Pump Arm

Ram – The ram acts in opening and closing the breech via the pump arm and back block.

Roller Sear – A roller sear is most often used in a sliding trigger frame. It allows for a smoother pull. It generally has one ball bearing near the end that rolls over the trigger plate.
Roller Sear

Sear – The sear catches the lug and releases it each time the trigger is pulled.

Sear Pin – The sear pin holds the sear in place in the trigger frame.
Sear Pin

Sear Spring – The sear spring returns the sear back to its original position and ensure that the lug is caught each time.
Sear Spring

Sliding Trigger Frame – The sliding frame is the frame that was first used on an autococker. The sliding trigger frame literally slides straight backwards and forwards. When the trigger is pulled it is pulled parallel to the body and it pulls the timing rod back towards the back of the body.
Sliding Frame

Timing/actuator Rod – The timing rod is actually connected to the 3way valve. This rod is bent like an L and attaches at a small circle in the trigger plate.
Timing/Actuator Rod

Trigger Plate – The trigger plate is the part of the trigger that actually pushes on the sear and causes it to release the hammer lug. This is the part you pull on a sliding trigger frame.
Trigger plate

Trigger Return Spring – This spring pushes the trigger back to the forward position after you have pulled it.
Trigger Return Spring

Trigger shoe – The trigger shoe attaches to the front of the trigger plate and give you room to actually pull the trigger back.
Trigger shoe

Valve – The valve is the part that allows air to flow into the body and propel the paintball. It is made up of two parts, the valve guide and the exhaust valve. Its performance is affected mainly by the valve spring, main spring and hammer.
Valve Kit

How an autococker works

Learning how an autococker works will only help one appreciate their marker even more. The first thing that should before you attach your air source to your autococker is to pull the back block back. When you pull the back block back you are actually pulling the hammer back far enough so that the hammer lug catches the sear. As soon as you air up your marker you will see the back block slam forward pushing the bolt into the feed tube, which then pushes a ball into the rear of the barrel. The marker is now gassed up, cocked, and ready to fire.

Now that we have a marker that is cocked and ready to shoot I will explain what happens when you actually pull the trigger. Heres were some people might get confused so I will put it in a list to help better organize the cycle.

When the hammer is released it will slam into the valve stem and allow air into the marker. This will cause the marker to fire the paintball down range. As you continue to pull the trigger back the 3way redirects the air to the ram. The ram pushes the back block and bolt back and a ball falls into the breech. If you hold the trigger back you can see this and will see the back block stay in the back position. When you let go of the trigger the 3-way again redirects the air to the ram and the ram pulls the back block forward. The bolt then pushes the ball into the end of the barrel where it is ready to be fired. All of this happens in less than a fraction of a second believe it or not.

  1. When you pull the trigger back the sear is lowered and the hammer is released.
  2. The hammer slams into the valve causing air to go through the body, through the bolt, and out the barrel pushing the ball with it.
  3. The 3-way redirects the air to the ram and the ram pushes the back block back.
  4. A ball falls into the breech and when you let go of the trigger the 3-way again redirects the air to the ram and the ram closes the back block and exhausts the air out of the 3way.

Timing your autococker

Now that you know how an autococker works we can talk about timing one. This is one of the biggest misconceptions out there about autocockers. A lot of people believe it is so hard to time them and that only an air-tech can do it. Well this isn’t true anyone who knows how an autococker works will be able to time an autococker.

In order for an autococker to cycle properly there are 4 key components that must be set to react at a certain point in the cycle. The first component you want to check is the back block position. A proper back block position will guarantee your gun will be able to pull the bolt back far enough to allow another ball to drop into the chamber. Your back block should be set so that when the ram is in the forward position there is a paper-thin space between the back block and the body. The best way to do this is to screw the backblock into the pump arm until it touches the body, then back off one complete spin.

The second adjustment in timing your cocker is your cocking rod length. The cocking rod is screwed into the back of the gun and connects to the hammer. If the cocking rod is set properly the hammer will be pulled far enough back so that the lug will catch the sear. The cocking rod also ensures that the bolt moves back far enough so that a new paintball can enter the chamber. The cocking rods length is adjusted through a setscrew in the back of the cocking rod. To lengthen the cocking rod you want to loosen the setscrew and to shorten the space you want to tighten the setscrew. When you are done setting the cocking rod to a desirable length you then tighten the setscrew in the back making sure the cocking rod length stays the same. Your cocking rod should be set so that when it is screwed back into the gun and the gun is cocked the bolt should be clear of the feed tube. It’s ok for a very small bit of the bolt to be in the feed tube.

The next step you want to take is to set your firing point. To set your firing point inserts by inserting a 1/8 allen wrench through the top of the hammer lug to adjust the firing point. To lengthen the lug turn the allen key clockwise. This will cause the firing point to move back. Turning counter-clockwise to shorten the lug and move the firing point forward. You want to make sure that you have the firing point set early enough so that you can still set the cocking point (next step), and so that you have enough of the lug catching the sear so that it will not slip. A good way to get a starting point with this is to cock the gun and pull the trigger. You want the lug to be released somewhere in the middle of the trigger pull. If the lug is released to early in the pull you want to lengthen the cocking lug by screwing it in clockwise. If the firing point is coming to late then you want to turn the allen wrench counter clockwise to shorten the hammer lug.

The fourth and final step (which I feel takes the most patience) in timing your autococker is learning how to set your cocking point. This is the point in the trigger pull where the timing rod actuates the 3-way to redirect the air to the ram so that ram pushes the back-block back. This is the only step in the timing process in which the gun needs to be gassed up. In order to adjust the timing rod you need to loosen the coupler screw. There is no need to take the screw all the way out but if you want go ahead, just don’t lose it. You do not want to loosen the setscrew closest to the 3-way. This screw only acts to attach the 3way shaft to the timing rod. You want to loosen the setscrew which is located closest to the marker. Shortening (turning clockwise) the timing rod will move the cocking point forward while lengthening (turning counter-clockwise) the rod will move the cocking point back in the trigger pull. A properly timed cocker has the cocking point right behind the firing point. An easy way to see this is to take the trigger between both of your fingers and pull it back very slowly. The gun should fire first, and right after it fires cock. The back block should not begin to travel back until the gun has fired. By having the cocking point set right behind the firing point this eliminates blowback.

Summary of Timing your Cocker

  1. Set the back block so that when pushed all the way forward you should have a paper thin space between the body and back block.
  2. Set the cocking rod length so that no part of the bolt is protruding into the breech when fully cocked.
  3. Set the firing point so that the marker fires releases the lug halfway through the trigger pull.
  4. Set the cocking point so that the marker cocks right after it fires.

Upgrading your cocker

One of the biggest problems people run into when upgrading there cocker is that they think they can just slap on a new part and expect the marker to work the same way it did before. This isn’t true many of the upgrades will require you to retime your marker. Below is a list of things that will require you to retime your marker.

  1. Back block - Readjust backblock space and if it's a new back block reset your cocking rod.
  2. Cocking rod - Readjust cocking rod length.
  3. Pump arm - Readjust back block spacing
  4. Hammer and springs - Retime entire marker.
  5. Valve and springs - Retime entire marker.
  6. Inline Regulator - Sweet spot and rechrono marker.
  7. Ram - Set proper back block length.
  8. LPR - Turn LPR pressure all the way down and pull back trigger. Pull the trigger back and slowly turn the pressure up until the marker cocks all the way back. When it cocks all the way give it an extra ¼ of a turn.
  9. 3-way - Retime firing and cocking points.
  10. ASA - Retime firing and cocking points.
  11. Trigger frame - Retime cocking point and check LPR hoses for proper configuration.

If you put a new trigger frame on your cocker you must pay attention to the LPR hose setup.

     If you have a hinge frame with a shocktech, dye, or system x 3way your hoses should he as follow.

     A hose should run from the front of the 3way to the rear of the ram. (Front to Back)
     The other hose should run from the rear of the 3way to the front of the ram. (Back to front)

     If you have a sliding frame with a shocktech, dye, or system x 3way your hoses should be as follows.     
     One hose should go from the rear of the 3way to the rear of the ram.
     The other hose should run from the front of the 3way to the front of the ram.

     If you have a hinge frame with any of the other 3ways not listed above the hoses will be as follows.

     One hose should go from the rear of the 3way to the rear of the ram.
     The other hose should run from the front of the 3way to the front of the ram.

     If you have a sliding frame with any of the other 3ways not listed above the hoses will be as follows.

     A hose should run from the front of the 3way to the rear of the ram. (Front to rear)
     The other hose should run from the rear of the 3way to the front of the ram. (Rear to front)

Sweet Spotting and adjusting your velocity

You should only set your velocity through your IVG. Setting your velocity through your Inline regulator will only decrease your markers performance.

To get the best efficiency out of your autococker you want to be able to sweet spot your regulator. In order to do this you’ll need lots of paint, lots of air and a chronograph. When sweet spotting you don’t want to use cheap paint. Splurge and buy some good stuff. It will only help you in the long run. Make sure that they paint matches the bore of your barrel very well.

The first step in sweet spotting your marker is to turn your inline pressure all the way down and back your ivg out till you see about 1 or 2 threads. Increase your velocity by about 25 psi or so and shoot 3 shots over the chronograph. Take those three numbers and get an average from them and write it down on a piece of paper. Then raise your input pressure by another 25 psi and shoot 3 more. Get the average and write it down. Keep repeating this until you notice the velocity drops. When you notice the pressure drop bring the input pressure back down by about 10 psi and shoot 3 more over the chronograph and write down the average. What you want to do now is find the point at which the velocity is at its highest. This is your sweet spot. After you have found your sweet spot now you want to adjust your velocity through your IVG to bring it back to the legal limit of your field.

Springing your cocker

When springing your autococker you must realize that one must have a perfect balance between your valve spring and your main spring. The major source of inefficiency is a valve spring that is weaker than the main spring. A valve spring that is too light will let too much air through the valve when the hammer strikes it. Yes some of that air will be used to propel the paintball but the excess air will be wasted. If you put a valve spring that is too stiff then you will not let enough air into the marker, which will cause you to raise your operating pressure.
     I feel that the best combination of springs is a medium valve spring with a light mainspring. In a maddmann spring kit this would be a blue valve spring with a green mainspring. With a light main spring you will also be able to lower your cocking pressure, which may prevent you from chopping balls.

CO2 or Nitrogen?

Before there was nitrogen autocockers used to run off of co2. Yes nitrogen is better and preferred but you can use an autococker and use co2. Your best bet would be to use an anti-syphon tube. This will keep the co2 out of your marker and increase the life of the seals and orings.

What is Short Stroking

Short stroking is when the trigger is pulled back far enough to let the marker fire, but not far enough activate the 3way.
The first ball will be fired out of the marker but only half of the cycle will occur.

What is the difference between a mini cocker and a full size cocker?

A full size cocker is just as long (from tip of barrel to end of beavertail) as a full size cocker.
A mini cocker has a small portion taken off of the front of the cockers body in an attempt to make the body lighter.

Operating Pressure
A mini will operate at the standard operating pressure of 350 just like a full size cocker.
However under high ROF you may have to up the pressure just a little bit to compensate for the loss of the large air reservoir found on full size cockers. Many people also add a volumizer to the front block to help maintain a constant pressure under a high ROF.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clownshooter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 March 2004 at 6:59am

New Technology Marker

It is exciting when a new technology pops up on the paintball scene, and even better when it really works. I’m talking about the Insight Component Engineering (ICE) Epic paintball marker. The name truly fits because it is an epic step in the evolution of paintball markers.

How it Works

The ICE Epic uses CO2 or HPA as a power source and has a back bottle adapter (ASA) built into the grip. After that the technology is all new. The Epic utilizes a PreVent Regulator built into the grip frame. The PreVent Regulator, which is integrated in the grip of the Epic, automatically vents any increase in the marker's internal pressure safely.

The Epic operates at 300-400 PSI. This regulator is remarkable! Using an F1 Chrony, I was able to have no more that a 4-fps fluctuation in paintball velocity using CO2. Most of the shots however read 286 fps, which is what I had set the velocity to. I have read of no greater than 2-fps velocity fluctuations using HPA. This is a nice feature since you can forget about velocity spikes.

The other main innovation is the Trap-Door Technology that is incorporated into the Epic. As most of you are well aware, all typical paintball markers use a bolt of some type to perform the dual functions of pushing the paintball into the breech or chamber for firing, and serving as a magazine cut-off preventing more than one ball dropping into the breech. The Epic has no bolt! Underneath the feed tube there is a rectangular slot in which a delrin trapdoor slides back and forth. Think of it as an approximately ¾ inch square by 1/8 inch thick piece of delrin. There is a kit available for the Epic that has several trapdoors of varying thickness so you can literally configure the chamber of the Epic to fit the paint you are using. A rod hooks into the rear of the trapdoor. Every time the trigger is pulled, this rod operates the trapdoor. When you gas up the Epic, the trapdoor slides forward under the feed port cutting off the chamber or breech from the hopper. When you pull the trigger, the trapdoor is momentarily relieved of the gas pressure holding it closed and a return spring causes it to open. When it opens a ball drops from the feed port into the chamber and returning gas pressure closes the trapdoor. The Epic’s trapdoor serves one of the functions of the bolt in a typical paintball marker. The important difference is that the trapdoor has only 3 pounds of force closing it. This is not enough force to chop a paintball. The bolts in typical paintball markers close with a great deal of force which is usually the factor that causes paintballs that have not dropped fully into the breech to be chopped. In the case of the Epic, once the paintball is in the chamber, the only thing acting on the paintball to force it out of the barrel is a blast of air.

Another advantage of the trapdoor technology is the reduction of moving mass inside the marker. There is no bolt sliding back and forth in the Epic, which reduces the amount of felt recoil. Recoil is not totally eliminated because physics require an opposite reaction to the paintball being launched forward out of the barrel. Recoil however is significantly reduced.


The Epic requires very little maintenance. After a day’s use, it is recommended to lubricate the rod that actuates the trapdoor. Two screws hold in the feed plate that covers the trap door. You simply remove the two screws, slide the feed plate off of the marker and the trapdoor is right there. You slide the trapdoor forward with your finger and put a drop of oil on the rod and that’s it. Replace the feed plate, wipe down the marker and you’re done. It is also recommended that prior to playing paintball that a couple of drops of oil are placed into the air hole in the ASA, and the marker fired several times with the barrel off to lubricate the inner seals. The design of the Epic is such that there are no external openings for dirt to get into the marker. There is no way paint can get inside the Epic unless you tale a shot right down the barrel. That really makes cleanup easy.

Configurations and Add-ons

The Epic can be purchased in a couple of colors with a single or double trigger. The grip frame accepts standard drop forwards however because the ASA is integral with the grip frame, one must purchase an ASA plug that has 1/8 inch gas line threads in the middle to be able to run a gas line from the ASA down to the drop forward. I used one of the early ASA plugs that Tippmann sells for the earlier versions of the A5. You screw in the ASA plug into the ASA, screw a 90 degree elbow into the center of the plug, and simply run the gas line of your choice down to the drop forward. The Epic accepts any barrel with Autococker threads, which gives the owner a wide choice of barrels. Other than the above items, I really can’t imagine what else one would need for this marker. The earlier versions of the Epic were rated at 9-10 balls per second. The newer Epics have an increased recharge rate allowing a rate of fire of 12-15 balls per second.

A link to the web site: http://www.icepaintball.com/

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White's Return View Drop Down

Strike 1 - Filter dodging

Joined: 07 September 2004
Location: Nicaragua
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E-Bolt Guide and Tips
Uber Post: http://tippmann.com/players/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID =61929&PN=1&TPN=2

We all know the most pouplar speed upgrade for 98 Customs and occasionally the Model 98 is the GTA E-Bolt and the BSI E-Bolt. Now for those of  you who can't decide which one to buy or look into, heres a few differences.

GTA E-Bolt: The GTa differs from the BSI E-Bolt in a few ways. For one, the GTA is capped at around 13bps, but can cylce faster depending on your setup. It wont get over 16CPS due to the RAM, it is mechanically set to restrict over 16CPS. The GTA LPR (Low-Pressure Regulator) also differs from the BSI LPR. The GTA LPR is a modified PMI Thor Regualtor, they're not know for their performance. By this I mean they don't function like the BSI LPR. Some people get a bad performing LPR and some get a good one. The board and electronic valve on the GTA kit is also different, it is located in the main grip area, and the electronic valve is attached to the board. The switch that activates the solenoid, is placed on 2 pins where the sear use to be, and tightens into place.

BSI E-Bolt: This kit is almost completely different than the GTA E-Bolt. Number one, the RAm is a different type than the GTA one, and cycles much faster. The board is seperate from the electronic valve and is located at the top of the grip. The elctronic valve is right below it. The switch that activates the solenoid is attached to the board, which is great so you dont have to deal with its position, and also allows a much lighter pull. The battery housing is also different because it has 2 holes on the outside. One for the slider switch, and one for te LED light which indicates the power status and blinks while shooting. The LPR is also a main focus of this kit. Why? Because it's a modified Palmer, which most Tippmann owners know that Palmer Regulators are superior. This mounts to the included 2 hole ASA. This kit also differs in a favorite way to most people. the Semi-Auto mode is capped at 30BPS which will allwo great ROF, but wont cycle that fast due to the RAM, but still gets good ROF.

Now for some tips..................

The main issue to E-Bolts when first purchased scares the owner.In my case, I aired it up, and it didn't shoot, but I just needed to adjust a few things. #1. Make sure your LPR is allowing air flow, but make sure it has no leak or you will lose pressure. #2. Adjust your velocity to the maximum, then tune it to what it should be set at. #3. Play around with your DWELL, that is what the problem was for mine, i just cranked it to the right all the way.

Make sure with the BSI and the GTA kit, that you dont have hoses or wires in the moving area of the RAM, or they will get pinched and wreck them. Theres a trick on http://www.model98.net to help precent this.

Now for the main controversy. People have had there board fried by using CO2 non-anti-siphoned. This can happen, but doesnt commonly occur. It is reccomended to use N2/Compressed Air, but not required. I peersonally use my GTA E-Bbolt on Co2 and nitrogen, and I have'nt had problems. I recommend not to let your gun ice up though, because you might get your board coated in ice, and that CAN fry your board.

Your gun will be majorly inaccurate with CO2, mine shoots and about 20 feet, the ball goes straight up in the air. Now on nitro, its very accurate. if you dont know why this happens, its because the CO2 causes velocity spiking.

Now for those who want to know if theres any upgrade boards out there, hers all that I know of. #1. Morlock Board (Requires Modifiying) #2. WAS Equalizer (Not Released Yet, and a rumor that it might not come out due to the lack of demand). LMK if theres one I missed.

If your curious what my setup is to see how my gun works with it, here it is.

98 Custom (Silver) with polished internals, GTA E-Bolt (GTA LPR ditched for a sledgehammer LPR), GTA Double Trigger, Shocktech Drop and 2 Hole ASA, HP 3-way Hose for E-Bolt, Macroline Kit, 14" Lapco Bigshot. My trigger pull is measured in at 2mm, and is walkable.

http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98-items/bsm98e- full-auto-kit.htm

I'll update this with whatever I find that will help you guys out.

Joe M. (WK457)

Edited by White's Return
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Satanicsanta090 View Drop Down

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Pump guns

This section includes only direct feed pumps not including pistols.

High end:


CCI Phantom Bottom Line with 45 Grip

By far the most popular pump gun today. Price for a new phantom with direct feed and bottomline is around 250 dollars.  These guns come with auto-trigger, and are excellent performers when stock, and have outstanding efficiency and consistency ( 3 fps). Their stock barrels are one of the best barrels made, and do not need to be replaced. Contrary to what some people think, these guns do not have any more range than semi autos. Many upgrades are available for this gun including ball dedents, trigger shoes, stocks, undercocking kits, and much much more.

Sniper II

Worr Game Products Sniper II

Although not very good stock, and fairly expensive (250), the sniper is a pump version of an autococker, and can take a great number of upgrades to make it better. IMO, the gun feels heavier, but more stable than the phantom.  The accuracy, efficiency, consistency are good, but not as good as most other pumps. It also doesn't have auto-trigger when stock, but can be upgraded so that performance is on par, or better than the phantom. It can also be converted to semi-auto for players who want to play pump, and semi.  This gun is an autococker, and will accept most upgrades that work for cockers. Although not the best bang for your buck when stock, the sniper can be upgraded to be very good.

Lapco Grey Ghost

THe grey ghost is a great classic pump gun produced by Lapco. Although it was discontinued, Lapco is beginning to produce them again, and they are being sold for 350 dollars new. The grey ghost is an excellent performer, and very light, with great accuracy, consistency, and pump stroke when stock. The gun, like most pumps, is extremely durable, and and can take a beating without having any problems. Few parts are availible for it as of right now, but Lapco will probably start making some aftermarket accesories soon. I believe the new grey ghosts have spyder threads for barrels, but aftermarket barrels that work with the pump sleeve are not being produced. The grey ghost is definately an expensive gun, and sought after by collectors. It is also a good gun for pump players, for whom money is not an issue.

AM-P Illusion

The illusion is one of the most comfortable pump markers out there today, and costs about 275 dollars at the cheapest. It is pretty consistent (+/- 5 fps) and accurate without upgrades. The gun lacks auto-trigger, but makes up for it with an incredibly short and smooth pump. Unique features on this gun are a dual ball dedent and dual pump arms.

Palmers' Houndstooth

Like all Palmers guns, the houndstooth is an excellent performer of superb quality. Coming in at a huge 385 dollars, the houndstooth offers unsurpassed accuracy, efficiency (45+ shots off a 12g!), and consistency, needing no upgrades whatsoever to improve performance. The reliability and durability of this gun is great and the gun feels comfortable in most hands.  The Palmers houndstooth is definately a gun worthy of buying if you have all 385 dollars to pay.

Sterling STP
The sterling STP is a great pump gun made by Arrow Precision. It is a very good gun out of the box and has superb accuracy similar to that of a phantom. It is light, extremely durable, and feels comfortable when pumping and firing. The picture above makes the sterling seem small, but in reality, the stock barrel is actually 13 inches. With good efficiency and consistency, and a great-feeling pump stroke, the sterling is a great pump for around 280 dollars.

Edited by Satanicsanta090
Silver Vein powdercoat
Palmer's male stab
Ported elbow
Double trigger with stop
Lapco bigshot
Trigger slop mod
ricochet ak
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FalloutMan View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
PRESIDENT: Tom Kaye Fan Club

Joined: 10 June 2002
Location: Uzbekistan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FalloutMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 April 2005 at 3:23pm
will you people read the first post, its for articles written by people approved by the moderators not random tidbits and questions.

Edited by FalloutMan
"They were convicted in federal court of pennsylvania for a telemarketing scam involving invention and patent fraud."
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ScarFace22 View Drop Down
Guested. Prejudice crap.

Joined: 29 August 2004
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ScarFace22 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 April 2005 at 10:26am

All about BLAST and Bob Longs Intimidators:


Does BLAST have a site?


Does BLAST have an e-mail?

Yes: bob@boblong.com (but don't hold your breath waiting for a reply)

Does BLAST have a phone number?

Yes: 1-925-625-7929

Does BLAST have an address where I can send my broken Timmy items?


1799D Carpenter Rd.
Oakley CA. 94561


Maintaining Your Intimidator

Tools needed

before you can maintain your marker, you will need to collect the following

-Imperial Allen Key Set
- Dow 33/55 & Tri-Flow Bicycle Lube
-3/8 socket wrench
-Rag (not paper towel, it will fall apart and get fibers in your gun, and possibly your solenoid)
-Squeegee, must have a cloth attachment

  1. Pull up the bolt pin and slide out the bolt, get a rag and wipe down the bolt, if there are any dark spots scrub hard and it should go away.
    2. Take off your barrel and screw it apart if you have a 2-piece, then wash it with water and squeegee it dry.
    3. Take out the ram by unscrewing the ram cap and tilt the gun backwards, holding your hand under the hole... it should slide right out.
    4. Check the front and back o-rings on the ram for tears or rips, also look at your ram bumper and see if its not cracking or splitting
    5. Wipe all the old grease off and put a fresh coat of Dow 55/33 ( DO NOT use white lithium grease, it will eat your orings), and put it back in, also put a little dab of Dow on the ram cap threads and oring.
    6. Take off the bottom of your torpedo regulator, there should be an o-ring there lube it so it seals, put that back on, for people who have other regs, lube the orings, this is a vital part of your gun!
    7. Now on to the front reg, if you have a volumizer take it off and lube the oring on that then carefully pull out the piston with some needle nose pliers and wipe all the old grease off that and apply a new coat.
    8. Put that back together, make sure the fat end of the piston is back towards the spring when you put it in
    9. Back to the bolt, get some tri-flow from a bicycle stop or hardware store and put a few drops on the bolt and smear it around on the o-rings, then insert it and line it up with the ram and your done.
    10. After all this wipe it down with a damp rag and put the barrel back on and you're done.
    11. Grease the ram after every 3,000 shots or so, and grease the poppet every 5,000-6,000 shots, and finally grease the front regulators after every 2 times you play.

Intimidator taken apart and ready to be maintained:


  1. Other parts that should be maintained: Solenoid

Its not very often that the solenoid goes bad but if you if you notice that the gun is starting to shoot slow...or your needing to increase your LPR to achieve the same FPS you used to when you first got your gun, then I would relube it.

PLEASE NOTE: I am not responsible for your actions if your gun breaks and/or does not work properly after this tutorial. DO AT OWN RISK!!

Step 1
Unscrew the 2 screws on the side with the ALL WHITE cap (or black cap for older style solenoids), NOT the side with metal. Do not touch the side with the metal cap. There is no need to. Now, back to the tutorial...
Here is a picture of what side to take apart.

Step 2
This is what you will have after taking the cap off.

and here is the inside of the cap. make sure the small o-ring doesn’t fall out.

Step 3
now take needle nose pliers and pull the spool out of the solenoid. If the spool is flush with the solenoid body, take a small screwdriver and push the spool out through on of the holes on the side of the noid.

Here is the spool out of the solenoid.

Step 4
Clean the old lube off of the spool with a towel.

Step 5
Re lube LIGHTLY with Dow 33 or 55.

Step 6
Push Spool back into solenoid (doesn’t matter which way)

Step 7
It's time to out the cap back on. Make sure the very small o-ring on the cap is on the side lined up with the hole on the solenoid. Here are pictures to help:

Step 8
Screw the 2 screws back in

And that’s it!
You end up with a working solenoid

It is recommended by BLAST tech to use only Dow Corning lube but there are other lubes that you can use

++ Toxic Sludge: (thick)
My favorite lube, it was designed by Gen-E to be the best Matrix lube out there and for most guns in general, this stuff is awesome. It’s pretty slick and never clumps or gets hard. It’s the best o-ring “sweller” I’ve found, I’ve had massive visible damage on stationary o-rings that were able to work with a generous amount of sludge, I can honestly say I’ve never seen any other lube seal so well.
Not to keep hyping this but I’ve left my NYX lubed with this for two months with tons of uses and tournaments without re-lubing. If you want for using on your ram to make it extra slick you can thin (see bottom of thread) the lube a little bit.

++ Tri-Flow: (thin)
Only lube for Delrin bolts period, use this stuff on your Delrin bolt, case closed.

+ Battle Lube: (thick)
Designed for Trixes its great for swelling o-rings. It doesn’t provide the best lubrication though if you’re looking for the slickest beast on the field. It also gets sticky like Dow33/55 above and doesn’t like to stay where you put it (it clumps up in certain areas). Decent to use, on stationary o-rings (ram sleeve, reg housing, etc)

+ Dow 55: (thick)
While made from Phenyl-methyl silicone as Dow33 is, it is designed for o-rings. It was designed for o-ring lubrication and does a good job, it actually swells nitrate which is what you’re looking for. Personally its one of the better lubes to use, only downsides are it’s a little too viscous for optimal performance but you can thin it (see bottom of thread), and also if you don’t regularly take it off and reapply it gets slightly crusty and tackier.

+ Motion Potion: (medium)
Great stuff, like Toxic Sludge but much more viscous, not as “liquidy” as oil though. This stuff is great on your ram but use something thicker for the least chance of leaks on your stationary o-rings.

- Dow 33: (thick)
Don’t use this, yes it does function as a physical lubricant it does not swell o-rings which is necessary for them to function at their best level. In fact it actually reduces the volume of o-rings, don’t use it on your Timmy. It was designed as a lubricant for ball bearings in extreme cold conditions. The reason Smart Parts requires use of Dow33 in Shockers, and Impulses is because they advertise them as Co2 compatible. Most other lubes will do weird things at -50degrees but Dow33 keeps on doing its job. You have better choices, don’t use it.

- White Lithium Grease: (thick)
This is another don’t use. Some brands are made with petroleum distillates, these brands will corrode your o-rings. While it’s not going to be like pouring acid in your gun you will shorten the life of your o-rings meaning more maintenance. Since lubricant manufactures aren’t required to list ingredients on the packaging it’s like food, you’re playing a game of chance buying white lithium grease. Also while a very good physical lubricant no forms of white lithium grease do much for swelling your o-rings.

-- Petroleum Based Oils: (thin)
WD-40, 3-in-1, etc. These are made out of petroleum bases which will eat up your o-rings and won’t do anything for making seals, stay away.

Paintball gun Oils: (thin)
Goldcup, KC, PMI, AutoLube, These are safe to use on your Timmy but don’t really have a place. They aren’t designed to make seals, but will make thicker greases more viscous (thin). See below for my process

Thinning: (medium)
Basically this is a simple process to make a lube more viscous so you can have a slick ram or something else that moves every shot. I usually just mix 3parts thick grease to 1part paintball gun oil on the tip of my finger and then apply. My Timmy and Angels bolt fall forward if I point the gun down so I guess I’m doing something right.

So what do I actually lube with what?:

Delrin Bolt: Triflow, nothing else
Metal Bolt: Thick lube on orings, thin lube on rest of bolt that comes in contact with body.
Ram O-rings: Medium Lube
Every Other O-ring, yes every: Thick Lube, even solenoid o-rings, never use oil on your solenoid see what happened to AKA owners.

Operating procedure for the Intimidator

The Intimidator is a low pressure gun so when you set the LPR try starting it at around 75-80 psi then make adjustments. When you want to make adjustments to your velocity set your LPR at a certain pressure (75-80psi) and then make adjustments to the HPR until you find the velocity you want.

Intimidator Boards

Frenzy 116


ON/OFF Operation
To turn ON marker momentarily press the ON/OFF button.
To turn OFF marker press and hold the ON/OFF button.
LCD screen will show [Turning]
[Off ]
After 1 second LCD screen will go blank. Now release the ON/OFF button.
Marker is now OFF.

Liquid Crystal Display (LCD)
When the marker is on, the LCD will display codes representing the status of the marker. The codes are as follows on the 2nd line of the LCD screen.
[ F ]: Standard operation. Forced mode.
[ D ]: Standard operation. Delay mode.
[ S ]: Standard operation. Dry fire (simulate) mode.
[ * ]: Marker limited to 12 BPS: Eye sensor malfunction.
[ C ]: Competition Lock ON. (Semi-auto is not capped)

Mode Selection
The LCD is a two-button membrane and menu driven system. To bring up menu options for the gun, hold down both buttons approx.1 second. Upon release you will be placed in the first menu. The 1st button scrolls through the available menus. The 2nd button is for entering a selected menu. Once inside of a given menu, the 1st button increments thru settings. The 2nd button is used to save the setting and exit out of the menu. Below are the definitions of the menus.
DWELL: Determines how long the forward before repeating cycle.
EYE: Activates or deactivates the eye sensor options.
Force: Marker fires only when ball is present at the time of trigger pull.
Delay: Marker fires when ball is present at time of trigger pull or if ball not present waits 1 sec. to fire.
Dry Fire: Marker fires at time of trigger pull. Eye sensor deactivated.
BIP: Ball in Place: Determines how long after trigger pull and eye sensor recognition will the marker begin to fire. Setting too low can cause ball breakage.
BOLT DELAY: Time eye sensor is ignored. This time allows bolt to move forward. Setting too low can cause the marker to dry fire. (blank shot)
TIMER: Determines game timer setting.
DEBOUNCE: Determines time (milliseconds) after trigger pulls which further trigger activity is ignored.
DELAY: Delay is used to slow down the markers top speed. Higher numbers slow the marker down more.
M BOUNCE: Mechanical bounce setting is used to stop markers recoil from causing an added shot. “0” deactivates and higher numbers decrease sensitivity of mechanical bounces happening.
COMP MODE: This menu allows you to change trigger response modes.
Full Auto: Marker fires one ball at the time of trigger pull unless trigger is rapidly pulled and released more than 4 times in a second then holding in trigger will result in the marker shooting fully automatically.
RAMP: Marker fires one ball at a time of trigger pull unless trigger is rapidly pulled and released more than 4 times a second then trigger pull later may results in two shots being fired.
Semi Auto: Marker fires one ball at the time of trigger pull.

Eye setting can be changed to dry fire mode without entering the menu. With marker off, hold trigger in and turn on marker. Keeping trigger pulled until the LCD goes to its normal screen and “S” is on the bottom left of the screen, now release trigger. This will put the marker into dry fire mode with the eye sensor off. This function is disabled with competition mode.

The count down timer will begin after pressing button 1. The timer will stop after repressing button 1. Pressing button 2 will reset the timer. Timer is not activated when using full auto or ramp modes with competition lock.

Competition Mode and Lock
With competition lock ON the dwell setting is not accessible thru the menu nor are you allowed to change the competition mode. Also the trigger activated dry fire mode is deactivated. The display window of the LCD will show “C” on the 2nd line of the screen if in competition lock.

Marker is not BPS capped while using competition mode semi-automatic.

[1] Turn off marker
[2] Open up grip frame to gain access to the circuit board.
[3] Short out D and C holes on the top of the board. Paper clips work well for this. Bend the clip so that one end is touching the D and the other end is touching the C.

[4] Turn marker ON. The display window will show "Comp On" then in the normal window the display will show "C"

[5] Turn marker OFF
[6] Disconnect the D and C short
[7] Leave off for at least 30 seconds
[8] Reassemble grip
[9] Ready to use with competition mode

To turn OFF competition mode follow the same procedure. When not activated the display will not show "C" on the LCD.


Frenzy 124.7 (PSP Legal)

Frenzy Board 127.1 version

ON/OFF Operation
To turn ON marker momentarily press the ON/OFF button.
To turn OFF marker press and hold the ON/OFF button.
LCD screen will show [Turning]
[Off ]
After 1 second LCD screen will go blank. Now release the ON/OFF button.
Marker is now OFF.

Liquid Crystal Display (LCD)
When the marker is on, the LCD will display codes representing the status of the marker. The codes are as follows on the 2nd line of the LCD screen.
[ F ]: Standard operation. Forced mode.
[ D ]: Standard operation. Delay mode.
[ S ]: Standard operation. Dry fire (simulate) mode.
[ * ]: Marker limited to 12 BPS: Eye sensor malfunction.
[ C ]: Competition Lock ON. (Semi-auto is not capped)
[ A ]: Full Auto
[ R ]: Ramping
[ S ]: Semi-automatic
[ B ]: Indicates battery is low.

Mode Selection
The LCD is a two-button membrane and menu driven system. To bring up menu options for the gun, hold down both buttons approx.1 second. Upon release you will be placed in the first menu. The 1st button scrolls through the available menus. The 2nd button is for entering a selected menu. Once inside of a given menu, the 1st button increments thru settings. The 2nd button is used to save the setting and exit out of the menu. Below are the definitions of the menus.
DWELL: Determines how long the forward before repeating cycle.
EYE: Activates or deactivates the eye sensor options.
Force: Marker fires only when ball is present at the time of trigger pull.
Delay: Marker fires when ball is present at time of trigger pull or if ball not present waits 1 sec. to fire.
Dry Fire: Marker fires at time of trigger pull. Eye sensor deactivated.
BIP: Ball in Place: Determines how long after trigger pull and eye sensor recognition will the marker begin to fire. Setting too low can cause ball breakage.
BOLT DELAY: Time eye sensor is ignored. This time allows bolt to move forward. Setting too low can cause the marker to dry fire. (blank shot)
TIMER: Determines game timer setting.
DEBOUNCE: Determines time (milliseconds) after trigger pulls which further trigger activity is ignored.
DELAY: Delay is used to slow down the markers top speed. Higher numbers slow the marker down more.
R BPS: Ramp BPS is used to set the rate of trigger pulls required to activate the ramping mode.
M BOUNCE: Mechanical bounce setting is used to stop markers recoil from causing an added shot. “0” deactivates and higher numbers decrease sensitivity of mechanical bounces happening.
COMP MODE: This menu allows you to change trigger response modes.
Full Auto: Marker fires one ball at the time of trigger pull unless trigger is rapidly pulled and released more than 4 times in a second then holding in trigger will result in the marker shooting fully automatically.
RAMP: Marker fires one ball at a time of trigger pull unless trigger is rapidly pulled and released more than 4 times a second then trigger pull later may results in two shots being fired.
Semi Auto: Marker fires one ball at the time of trigger pull.

Eye setting can be changed to dry fire mode without entering the menu. With marker off, hold trigger in and turn on marker. Keeping trigger pulled until the LCD goes to its normal screen and “S” is on the bottom left of the screen, now release trigger. This will put the marker into dry fire mode with the eye sensor off. This function is disabled with competition mode.

The count down timer will begin after pressing button 1. The timer will stop after repressing button 1. Pressing button 2 will reset the timer. Timer is not activated when using full auto or ramp modes with competition lock.

Competition Mode and Lock
With competition lock ON the dwell setting is not accessible thru the menu nor are you allowed to change the competition mode. Also the trigger activated dry fire mode is deactivated. The display window of the LCD will show “C” on the 2nd line of the screen if in competition lock.

Marker will be limited to 15 BPS while using full auto or ramping modes with competition lock. While in this mode the top line of LCD will reed “15 BPS”.

Marker is not BPS capped while using competition mode semi-automatic.

To activate Competition Lock:
1. Turn off marker.
2. Open up grip frame to gain access to the circuit board.
3. Short out D and C holes of the top of the board. Paper clips work well for this. Bend the clip so that one end is touching the D and the other end is touching C.
4. Turn marker ON . The display window will show “Comp On” then in the normal window the display will show “C”.
5. Turn marker OFF
6. Disconnect the D and C short.
7. Leave off for at least 30 seconds.
8. Reassemble grip.
9 Ready to use with competition mode.

To turn OFF competition lock follow the same procedure. When not activated the display will not show “C” on the LCD.

WAS equalizer


Uprgrades for the Intimidator

Intimidators come with a lot of stuff stock so there really isn’t a whole lot that needs to be changed.

Adjustable Ram Cap

This is something you definitely want to get. You will find that when you reinsert your ram back into its sleeve its will sometimes not be aligned. When it is not aligned the bolt will be out of place causing chopping. The Adjustable ram cap allows you to adjust the ram so it will always be in the right position. When you adjust the ram look down the feed tube at the bolt. You should only be able to 1/6 of the bolt if you can see any of the o-rings you have screwed the ram way to far in.

New barrel

The stock CP barrel is pretty good IMO and it doesn’t really have to be changed.

Other stuff to buy

I would suggest getting this kit from the Timmy store. IT comes with picks, O-ring, lube and other spare parts just in case.

 5 man Repair Kit

Includes the following:

5 complete sets of o-rings
2 o-ring plastic picks
2 oz of DOW55
1 screw set
2 ball detents
6 SS hi flow barb and hose (This is actually an Hybrid hi-flow kit)
15 compartment plastic storage case (11X7)
5 IOG stickers

60.00 Shipped (US only)
75.00 for 10 complete sets of o-rings

If you bought everything separate, it would cost you over 110.00

I’ve bought mass amounts of o-ring to make this kit affordable for everyone.

You may also save more if you buy the additional parts with this kit only.
Solenoid +60.00
Set of eyes +19.00

Paypal Orders@thetimmystore.com
make a note, on which one you want and if its for a 2k2 or Alias


Anyone has any questions about Timmys or If I left something out PM me.

Edited by ScarFace22

Check my thread in the Great guns thread for Timmy tech help or PM me
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Die spambot die

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stellaf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 January 2009 at 6:00am
<Die spammer>

Edited by Enos Shenk - 17 September 2009 at 3:57pm
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Die spammer

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<Die spammer>

Edited by Enos Shenk - 17 September 2009 at 3:57pm
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WOW gold spammer

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wow ..cool!!! When I spam I get banned.

Edited by Mack - 14 January 2013 at 2:08pm
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Sister of loser posting above

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Paintball Gear
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Maurice Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 February 2014 at 4:33am
Guns lovers or the person who love the weapon will enjoy this forum most.
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Time for a C-Section!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ceesman762 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 February 2014 at 9:11am
Originally posted by Maurice Maurice wrote:

Guns lovers or the person who love the weapon will enjoy this forum most.

What? Interesting spam...
Innocence proves nothing

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Hipster before Hipster was cool...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tallen702 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2014 at 12:17pm
Originally posted by Ceesman762 Ceesman762 wrote:

Originally posted by Maurice Maurice wrote:

Guns lovers or the person who love the weapon will enjoy this forum most.

What? Interesting spam...

He's saying they'll love the link in the signature space mebbe? I dunno. I wish these SE-Asian spammers would at least work on making something conversationally interesting instead of just... odd...
<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>
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