a5 chronograph issues

sidnomis wrote: Hi everyone... i'm new to pb, and i'm addicted!!! lol I read that the a5 is more accurate when you use the right paint with the right psi. So I went to get my marker chroned. They oiled my marker from the back where the tank goes in, filled the hopper and started to chrone it. It was acting very sporadic. The 1st shot was 256, 2nd shot was 269, and the 3rd was 278.  That was before he adjusted with the allen wrench. Then he adjusted it up and shot it twice. The first shot was 285 and the 2nd was 311! He shot it about 4 more times and it jumped from 315 to 250. Any ideas why? Thanks, newbie pb addict

 

sounds like a kid i helped out yesterday, except it was a spyder. i had no idea what to tell him

So how do you go about chroning? Would installing a remote help?

I talked to a friend about using Nitrogen instead, and he said that it is not as powerful as CO2, that the PSI is lower. Is that true?

Thanks for the responses...

-Sid

Remotes and expansion valves can help as it gives a pre chamber for the CO2 to expand and gives some more consistency between shots. You will still get spikes though depending on how fast you are shooting, temperature etc. You can also use a Palmers regulator/Stabilizer, but there are debates both ways if this is a good setup for a marker that uses blowback gasses to operate the cyclone and if you chosse, an RT later on.

Nitrogen is referring to HPA(high pressure air) and put bluntly, your friend is talking out of his butt. What he may be referring to is that HPA tanks come with low pressure and high pressure regulators on them. Tippmanns require the high pressure tanks as they operate at a higher PSI. HPA does deliver a more consistent velocity between shots, but tanks are considerably more expensive than CO2.

Regarding chronoing, you do the best you can. When you go to a field and chrono, you want to set the FPS at 290 or below. Basically take 3 shots and make sure none is above 290.

Another note, you are confusing PSI with Velocity which is measure in FPS (feet per second). This is measured by the speed of the ball exiting the barrel. Chronoing measures this speed. You can acheive better accuracy by having your FPS consistent as well as having a good paint to barrel match. Another thing that affects accuracy is the barrel you are using. Typically, most people suggest a J&J or Lapco barrel as both are more accurate than the stock barrel and are reasonably priced. There are other kits that have seperate back and fronts so that you can tune the barrel to match the paint. These are significantly more money as usualy the kits come with several "backs".

My final suggestion if for you to read through the stickies inside this forum as well as the New Player forum and Upgrades and Customizing forums. There is a lot of very useful information posted by some very knowledgable members here and most of your follow up questions should be answered. Using the Search button also will result in a lot of useful threads pertaining to your questions. You will find that most questions like this have been asked a few times.

Good luck and welcome to the game.

Also a major, but common, problem is people misadjusting their velocity screws. I've even seen refs do this. Tippmann screws are the opposite of other guns.

Keeping up with oiling and maintenance can help reduce inconsistencies as well.

As explained above, climate can also effect CO2.

Yes, the FL is expensive, and I've found some for real cheap on CraigsList.com. I read a lot of reviews on pbreview.com, this one inparticular:  http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/1543/

Most of these reviews talk about how accurate the FL is, and how far it shoots. Does it make it shoot further, but still curves right or left?

I think I will stick to what I have, like you said, for a while. I don't want to waste the cash and be unsatisfied. It'd be nice if I could find someone in my area that uses the FL, so I could see how it feels/shoots.

thanks again!