Does a Remote Line Act as a X Chamber?

Yes, it does.

That is one of the main reasons that I favor running a remote line.

With the tank vertically mounted in a harness and a remote, no Co2 should ever get into your marker.

Your don't want CO2 in your gun (the LIQUID) ... only the pressurized by-product.

Liquid CO2 will freeze your internals and damage your o-rings.

Sorry if I went over anyones' heads here.

Should I spell everything fo-net-ick-lee next time too?

ekeboo wrote: hway when did you get back or are you at a coffe shop?

For the time being, I get to the house for a couple of hours every day, but that will be changing soon.

What can I say, I missed you guys!

While I understand what you are saying, I fail to see the distinction.

Results are the same ... liquid in the gun = BAD ... by-product/evaporation/whatever so long as it produces enough pressure to work a marker = GOOD.

The bottom line?

A remote line STILL works like an expansion chamber and the rest is just nit-picking and word games.

What is this, the Presidential campaign??

What do we have to pass posts through an editorial staff nowadays to get the bloody point across?

Perhaps I should look up the scientific equation to post along with any answers next time ...

Here you go, as posted on www.docsmachine.com:

How it works:
The liquid is many, many times denser than vapor. As I recall, the expansion ratio of CO2 is something like 3000%. In other words, a given volume of liquid, for example one cubic inch, will expand into 3,000 cubic inches of gas/vapor. What this means is, there is an enormous amount of potential energy, or “stored” energy in liquid CO2, much more so than in already-vaporized CO2. The more you expand the gas, the less energy it has per given volume. This is why some people refer to “over-expanding” CO2; doing so simply robs it of useful potential energy.

So, let’s cram that full-power, high-octane Liquid into the valve. When the gun is fired, the valve is opened momentarily, which allows the pressure to drop way, way down. Since the liquid cannot remain a liquid without the pressure, it “flashes” to a gas almost instantly. The valve only lets out a tiny amount of liquid, but because of the tremendous expansion ratio, it quickly becomes much more gas than the valve could have let through. Because of this, there is more than enough energy, in the form of expanding gas, to operate the Paintgun. And, since the expansion to gas does not take place in the tank, the cooling action is greatly reduced, and transferred to the valve, where it has little effect. As long as there is sufficient pressure in the tank to force the liquid up the siphon tube, and there is still liquid available, the marker will keep running, usually with no drop in velocity.
Converting to Liquid:
The conversion is as easy as installing a siphon tube to an existing tank, or buying a premade siphon tank. A “Siphon” tube, also spelled “syphon”, is merely a flexible, weighted ‘dip tube’, like a straw, connected to the pin valve, inside the tank. The weight on the bottom end of the tube keeps it immersed in the liquid no matter what position the tank is in. (Except inverted, or upside down.) Fill it like usual, slap it on like any normal CO2 tank, and go play. Whoops, no, sorry, it’s not quite that easy.... Since you need to keep the CO2 as a liquid, you need to minimize the excess space that could cause the liquid to expand.
So here’s a quick list of guidelines for running Liquid:

#1: Remove any expansion chamber you may be using. Since an E-chamber is intended to reduce the amount of liquid passing through, one should not be used.

#2: No remotes. It is very difficult, if not impossible, to get liquid all the way from the tank, through the remote line, and into the valve consistently. Even with a very small-inside-diameter remote, like the old “Slinky” type, you end up getting several shots of liquid, then a bunch of gas, than a few shots of liquid again. Needless to say, this leads to terribly inconsistent velocities. Liquid CO2 must be run on-gun.

#3: If you use a bottomline, minimize the amount of tubing, hoses or connections between the tank and the ‘gun’s valve. A good suggestion is to switch to a “Micro Line” type hose, since the internal diameter is very small. Don’t worry, it will still flow plenty of liquid. Try to leave off things like filters, quick-disconnects, and long coiled-up hoses.

#4: No regulators or check-valves. If liquid passes through either of these, and you stop shooting long enough to let it expand, even slightly, the internal pressure can and will shoot WAY up, causing all sorts of problems, and a very dangerous situation.