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Bolt Rust |
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Ringworm 
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Joined: 01 May 2005 Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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 Topic: Bolt RustPosted: 01 May 2005 at 3:04pm |
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Here's a stupid question. I just pulled my gun (M-98) out of storage where its been laying collecting dust for a couple years. I pulled it apart to clean out any old oil and relube it to find the inside of the bolt is showing signs of rust on the inner walls and inside the head. So my question is, How screwed does this make me? And how much of a priority is a new bolt right now (since I just dropped a bunch of cash replacing some other equipment). And a follow-up question, What bolt would you recommend? -Ryan |
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Darur
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Posted: 01 May 2005 at 3:11pm |
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How bad is the rust? Can you post a pic of it?
You might be able to sand off some of the rust, aluminum oxides faster than most other metals so it would probably come back. Try usuing some lube and firing it, check to see if the thing still shoots ok. |
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Real Men play Tuba
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triggerhappy1
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Posted: 01 May 2005 at 3:45pm |
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Aluminum doesnt rust. The rear bolt and reciever halves are aluminum. It does oxidate though (white corrosion stuff). If your refering to the bolts that hold the gun together, it wont harm anything. Use steel wool or lightly sand everything to bring it to new condition.
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Ringworm
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Posted: 01 May 2005 at 5:02pm |
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Its rust - not white corrission and not dirt. (The manual actually says these parts do rust, so use oil, etc. etc.) I just got the thing assembled now, and its shooting fine. Go figure. -Ryan |
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Darur
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Posted: 01 May 2005 at 6:08pm |
 Rust - Any of various powdery or scaly reddish-brown or reddish-yellow hydrated ferric oxides formed on iron and iron-containing materials by low-temperature oxidation Ok, fair enough but rust is oxidization thus the term technically applies to aluminum |
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Real Men play Tuba
[IMG]http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/1859/newsmall6xz.jpg"> PH33R TEH 1337 Dwarf! DONT CLICK ME!!1 |
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The Guy
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Posted: 01 May 2005 at 7:56pm |
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rust is oxidation of iron.
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triggerhappy1
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Posted: 01 May 2005 at 8:09pm |
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Yeah I dont really consider the oxidation of aluminum rust. Its probaly better known as "corrosion." So there isnt actualy iron (brown) rust on your bolt. But some may call it rust. Just for the hell of it, heres pics showing the differance between oxidation of the two metals. These two peices (a German airplane propeller peice and Teller mine) have been buried for more than 50 years. Yeah we collect WWII stuff.
Again, steel wool or light sandpaper should get it as good as new unless its like that old prop. Edited by triggerhappy1 |
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Liquid3
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Posted: 04 May 2005 at 1:18pm |
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Fine wire brush the steel and brass brush the aluminum. Oil ,assemble and shoot. Dremel brushes work good on internals.
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LordJovian
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Posted: 06 May 2005 at 8:59am |
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I don't think the bolt is pure aluminum. I've got an A-5 with a rust spot. There is probably a bit of iron/ steel mixed in to harden the bolt. *edit* Edited by LordJovian |
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A-5
E-grip Chipley Custom Carbon Graphite 16" Evil Adapter(Spyder) 32 Deg New '03 XChamber Remote Line Gun Sling Sniper f/x Stock LPK 68/4500 HPA R-5 CP Reg JCS Duel Trigger |
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Kevin Z
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Posted: 06 May 2005 at 7:45pm |
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The rear bolt is steel. The rust on it is just cosmetic. Clean it up with steel wool, make sure the inside where the spring is, is clean. Replace the spring if it is rusty. |
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Unicorn
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Posted: 06 May 2005 at 9:04pm |
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As above, the rear bolt is steel. If it's just light surface rust, use some steel wool, 0000 to start dampened with oil. If that doesn't work, move up to 000, then 00, etc until you get it all off. You might want to then move back to the finer grades, and even some superfine wet/dry sandpapter to get out all the scratches. I'd start at around 600.
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LordJovian
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Posted: 09 May 2005 at 8:56am |
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I don't think it's pure steel- it feels too light. My guess is it's like some sort of stainless steel mixture with aluminum. Pure steel is kinda overkill, plus it would rust as fast as the drive springs if it were just steel. The bolt tends to rust lightly if even not at all. I'm pretty sure there is a mixture in it.
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A-5
E-grip Chipley Custom Carbon Graphite 16" Evil Adapter(Spyder) 32 Deg New '03 XChamber Remote Line Gun Sling Sniper f/x Stock LPK 68/4500 HPA R-5 CP Reg JCS Duel Trigger |
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Unicorn
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Posted: 09 May 2005 at 2:38pm |
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It's steel. Maybe stainless alloy, but it's steel. There is no aluminum/steel alloy. It's not a solid chunk of steel, it's is fairly hollow, and has an aluminum plug inside where the drive spring pushes. And even if it's not a stainless, it might have enough chromium in it to help with rust resistance (just under the 11% required to be called "stainless"), and look at all the hunting knives that are made from non-stainless alloys. Those would be rusty as heck if steel rusted that easily.
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sentinal343
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Posted: 09 May 2005 at 10:46pm |
 What is your guy's problem with a small definition;its not a contest,but if it is,.............rust is when some type of...something(oxygen/dirt/bacteria)gets into the metal(/iron) and makes a chemical reaction inside the metal and if it gets bad enough, you cant just rub it off with sandpaper.
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LordJovian
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Posted: 10 May 2005 at 8:47am |
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That's what I was looking for- chromium. I'm not too good with metallurgy.
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A-5
E-grip Chipley Custom Carbon Graphite 16" Evil Adapter(Spyder) 32 Deg New '03 XChamber Remote Line Gun Sling Sniper f/x Stock LPK 68/4500 HPA R-5 CP Reg JCS Duel Trigger |
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Bruce A. Frank
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Posted: 06 June 2005 at 2:27am |
Lot of confusion as to from what material the hammer is made. The outside of the hammer is steel and pretty soft steel at that. It is zinc plated to reduce rusting. But, it wears as you use it and will then rust if left un-cleaned and/or un-oiled for a long time. The steel bolt has an aluminum plug in the back end of it to fill the void and act as a guide for the spring while keeping weight down. The marker receiver halves are aluminum alloy castings. Aluminum will corrode but usually not unless some chemical has been left in contact with it for an extended time. If the aluminum is reasonably clean moisture in the air will not cause a problem like it will with steel. All these parts, whether aluminum or steel, can be buffed with steel wool to remove the rust or corrosion, oiled and thus brought back to "like new" condition. Functioning like they should in the marker. If the hammer spring is rusted, replace it. High carbon steel, like the spring, rusts faster than mild steel. The thin wire of the spring will quickly become damaged from rust, leading to breaks at the wrong time. Edited by Bruce A. Frank |
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triggerhappy1 wrote:
