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Gun Stops Shooting. |
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Chrisb319
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Joined: 05 June 2006 Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Topic: Gun Stops Shooting.Posted: 01 July 2006 at 2:49pm |
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I made a new topic because my new question in the old topic was not getting answered and information was spread out within several entries. So here it goes.
I bought my 98 Custom off a friend and the gun worked fine no shooting problems what so ever. These problems only started happeneing when I installed the Response Trigger. Whenever my rate of fire increased dramatacly my gun would uncock and I would have to manual cock it to fire another shot. When the gun recocked and shot I noticed that my gun would shoots balls very inconsistently, the first 2 shots would be okay, then the next one would go about 10ft and drop then my gun would uncock. I replaced my valve, drive srping and pin and my C02 was full. I don't know what is up the only ting I can think of is that my velocity screws aren't locktited shut. My gun also forms allot of condensation(water) is that normall at all? any ideas? thanks. |
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barn_user
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Strike 1 - Filterdodge, 3/20 Joined: 28 May 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1423 |
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Posted: 01 July 2006 at 4:39pm |
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I can't help you much but try searching for uncocking stuff. I've seen trheads about this but I'm not very good at directing you in the right direction. One thing I know is...when you start putting in upgrades be ready for your gun to not work. I wanted to install an expansion chamber. I had to then spend $70 on a power tube and new valve so the thing would work properly.
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Shadowminion
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Strike 1 - Language, 3/20 Joined: 06 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1625 |
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Posted: 02 July 2006 at 9:37am |
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Read your other thread , and dont double post . In order for a marker problem to get the best and most helpful responses , you need to give detailed information on the the type of failure (which you did) , the modifications and upgrades currently installed on it , especially if recent things were done !! The circumstances surrounding the failure (such as "When sustaining a High rate of fire , my gun sometimes wont recock" ) . You need to check the basics out for yourself and eliminate the obvious first ,,, Ie; "Do I have CO2 in my tank ?" , Is there debris blocking the travel of moving components inside the marker ? Is my marker assembled correctly ? I read your other thread , and much information was originally ,,,, lacking , so the reasons answers were slow in coming forth , was because everybody was trying to find out information that should have been posted initially . You are new to the forum , and I suppose new to paintball . There is a wealth of experience and knowledge here for members to draw upon if they can utilize it properly , please read all those boring Stickied topics and FAQ's plus everything posted by the moderators at the top of each forum category. That should not only answer most of the questions almost every new forumer is bound to ask , but should give you an idea of how to post here . |
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SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
Widowmaker , under construction |
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Bruce A. Frank
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KRL Reincarnated? Joined: 27 March 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3063 |
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Posted: 02 July 2006 at 10:23pm |
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WHEN YOU SHOOT AT A HIGH RATE OF FIRE THE CO2 COOLS SO DRAMATICALLY THAT THERE IS A SIGNIFICANT PRESSURE DROP OFF. This symptom of "shoot down" can also be caused by restrictions is gas passageways...such as a expansion chamber or a regulator that cannot flow gas fast enough. Such problems are much less likely to happen with HPA but can still happen. Statement of some pretty obvious stuff: Don't LocTite a velocity screw, CO2 evaporating at high rates gets EXTREMELY cold to the point of actually icing up the outside of the marker...condensation, at HROF is normal, Icing up can take place internally and restrict gas flow. Obviously you are playing outlaw paintball, so get yourself a hand held chronograph and check velocity before EVERY game!!! And make sure both screws that hold the power valve in place are present and tight. Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 03 July 2006 at 1:43pm |
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FA22RaptorF22
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Joined: 23 April 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 313 |
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Posted: 03 July 2006 at 12:16pm |
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R/t's seem to have a large tendency to do that uncock thing. Happens on our 98's all the time. It has to do with the trigger assembly how the sear latches before the trigger can reset and the mechanism that supposed to prevent from this "uncock" is not working.
Take it apart and clean it out. Oil everything and squish the trigger spring slide back and fourth and do the same with the sear. |
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S\/\/4T-L()G4N
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Anybody in the town wanna bounce around? Joined: 22 July 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3271 |
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Posted: 03 July 2006 at 1:37pm |
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^^^I have no idea what you are talking about.
The VAS should not be loctited, but the valve bolts should. This sounds like the pretty common symptoms of this not being done. |
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