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RVA help. A-5 |
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B_Wet A-5
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im luvin my pecs Joined: 04 June 2004 Status: Offline Points: 1152 |
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Topic: RVA help. A-5Posted: 29 September 2004 at 8:22am |
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ok i just bought a RVA for my A-5. so question is do i have to take out my old velocity screw in order for this one to work? if i dont have to take it out how far should the stock screw be in? i will have pics of my gune in 5 day. just be ready for it. |
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I need smallers sigs.
AVIATOR GANG
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ACDC A5
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Joined: 22 July 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 136 |
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Posted: 29 September 2004 at 8:29am |
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An rva has nothing to do with the air in take all it does it tighten up the spring. you should beable to just put it on and thats it. to know how far to adjust the velosity screw you basically just need to crono it and adjust you will most likely have to the velosity screw in which will lessen the air intake.
Cant wait to see the gun |
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My Gun
A5 E-Grip GTA 2x trigger JCS Spira Grip Lapco 12" Big Shot Lapco Universal Mount 32* ASA Madman Spring Kit |
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LordJovian
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Joined: 01 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1882 |
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Posted: 29 September 2004 at 8:44am |
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Ok- take the frame apart (by unpinning and unscrewing everything) and pull out the powertube. Now, look into the front of the powertube, and screw the screw until it's all the way flush (even) with the side of the powertube. Then, reassemble. Now you adjust your velocity by changing tension on the main spring from the RVA.
Changing tension on the spring DIRECTLY affects air intake. Plus, it's not referred to as air intake (no its not your car). How might you ask? Good. The main spring, the rear bolt, the front bolt, and the amount of friction are added together to equate a given force. This force hits the valve pin, which has a valve spring which reacts according to the given force. If the force is reduced, the time the valve is opened is reduced. If the force is increased, the valve is opened longer. The longer it's opened the more air released, and the shorter it's opened the less air it releases. You don't want the velocity screw to block air flow with the RVA. Think of it like this- normally with the velocity screw out, lets say your gun shoots 320 fps maximum. So, by changing the tension (not the screw) you can reduce the amount of air to bring the maximum velocity to what you want- 280 or whatever your choice is. This helps increase air efficiency, s you are using less air per shot, instead of just blocking air flow (via the velocity screw). ACDC A5 you may want to read this. A lot. *edit* Oh, B_wet A5, I think steel braids are ugly. Very very ugly. Might I suggest black macroline? Edited by LordJovian |
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A-5
E-grip Chipley Custom Carbon Graphite 16" Evil Adapter(Spyder) 32 Deg New '03 XChamber Remote Line Gun Sling Sniper f/x Stock LPK 68/4500 HPA R-5 CP Reg JCS Duel Trigger |
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ItalianoGuy04
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Strike 1, lewd questions, 2/9 Joined: 23 September 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1182 |
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Posted: 29 September 2004 at 8:54am |
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put stock screw all the way in... to save air... |
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Supe'd up Spyda Victor, don't like it, don't care |
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LordJovian
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Posted: 29 September 2004 at 9:09am |
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Ummm... how about no? The screw doesn't affect HOW MUCH air comes out. The screw SLOWS down the air, creating the differing speeds. Your stock A-5 shoots the same amount of air, no matter where the velocity screw is. Mayhaps you should read my previous post yourself?
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A-5
E-grip Chipley Custom Carbon Graphite 16" Evil Adapter(Spyder) 32 Deg New '03 XChamber Remote Line Gun Sling Sniper f/x Stock LPK 68/4500 HPA R-5 CP Reg JCS Duel Trigger |
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ItalianoGuy04
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Strike 1, lewd questions, 2/9 Joined: 23 September 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1182 |
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Posted: 29 September 2004 at 2:25pm |
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^^ don't be a retard... the velocity screw retricts air, thus making the ball go further... the RVA tightens/loosens the back spring, thus making it shoot further/less because of the tenstion on the spring, thus making the velocity screw all the way out a waste of air, cause if its all the way in, it saves air, yet shoots same speed/distance because of the RVA tighening/loosining the spring...
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Supe'd up Spyda Victor, don't like it, don't care |
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B_Wet A-5
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im luvin my pecs Joined: 04 June 2004 Status: Offline Points: 1152 |
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Posted: 29 September 2004 at 5:13pm |
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hehe. trust me my gun doesnt have that any more it just became a pwnage machine. well not machine but u get my drift. o my digi cam is broke so mabey in a week i have pics up. thx for the RVA help ppl. |
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I need smallers sigs.
AVIATOR GANG
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LordJovian
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Posted: 29 September 2004 at 5:17pm |
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Wow. that was horribly incorrect. The velocity restricts the air flow. that does not make the ball go farther- try screwing the screw all the way in and see what happens. The velocity is reduced (in your words "lessed") and the ball does not travel as far. When the screw is out, it allows the air to flow through faster, thus increasing ("plusing") the velocity, which increases the distance the ball can travel.
It's simple. Air flows similar to water, so go into your bathroom for an experiment. Now, go to your lavatory (sorry, "sink") and open the drain all the way. Now turn on the faucet all the way. Now turn it off. Now, provided your drain isn't blocked, the water should go away fast. Now, almost close the drain all the way, but leave a small crack. Now, turn the faucet on and off just like you did before. And whoa- the water drains slower. Crazy, isn't it? Now, the Rear Velocity Adjuster changes the tension on the spring. Well, here's what that springy thingy does- The main spring pushes the rear bolt forward, and when the rear bolt strikes the pin on the CVX valve, it opens the valve and causes the air to flow. This air is then divided into two possible directions- most of it goes out the front of the gun, thus propelling the ball out the barrel. The remainder of this pushes back on the rear bolt and main spring, causing it to move back towards the rear of the gun where the sear catches it, where it waits for you to pull the trigger again. This is called a CYCLE. Now, the RVA can change the tension so you only release the air you need to propel the ball forward at the desired velocity. The tension on the spring will change how much force the spring exerts (puts out). You increase the tension, it exerts more force (punches harder). You reduce the tension, it exerts less force (punches lighter). Now, the force it exerts meets the valve spring. The valve spring will first bounce forward from the blow, and then retaliate (valve gets hit, steps back, then punches the other guy in the face that hit him) to close the valve. Now, if you hit it harder than the standard tension it will move forward farther and retaliate slower, causing more air to release. If you hit it with less force, it will not bounce forward as far as the standard tension and close faster, thus releasing less air. You want to use less air, so you reduce tension in the main spring. The velocity screw only slows down the air, the same amount still gets released. Just like the sink trick- if you were to put equal amounts of water in two cups and use a stopwatch to time the difference between having the drain all the way opened and almost closed, you'll see having the drain almost closed takes longer, but it's still the SAME amount of water. I've noticed you go through and make small commenst about everything on the first page of almost every forum- half the time you don't read what is going on with other posts, and usually your responses are "Yeah, what he said." or "I like paintball." or "Yay! i like those too!" Please don't post crap just to get your post count looking "cool" (post count...cool? hehe). It really annoys me, and doesn't help the guy TRYING TO GET REAL HELP. You're trying to argue against a guy who passed Physics with an A and actually paid attention. Plus, you're using some really half-baked strange alien lopgic that doesn't apply to our world or our definition of physics. Blocking air flow makes it go faster? Using more air reduces the velocity? Wow, go back to class. *edit* B_wet A-5, hey no problem. Ask anytime. I'm usually in the MaintenaNce and Technical Help Forum. Edited by LordJovian |
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A-5
E-grip Chipley Custom Carbon Graphite 16" Evil Adapter(Spyder) 32 Deg New '03 XChamber Remote Line Gun Sling Sniper f/x Stock LPK 68/4500 HPA R-5 CP Reg JCS Duel Trigger |
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The Man
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Strike 1 - Stupidity Joined: 03 August 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3748 |
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Posted: 29 September 2004 at 5:47pm |
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^Dude you need a gold star (Too bad the forum all messed up) Your posts have been very Good you put me to shame lol.
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Cp
critical Bob Long Lengens painball park Team Rendition |
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ItalianoGuy04
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Strike 1, lewd questions, 2/9 Joined: 23 September 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1182 |
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Posted: 30 September 2004 at 3:00pm |
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^maybe you should lose your gold star..
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Supe'd up Spyda Victor, don't like it, don't care |
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Hyper
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Posted: 30 September 2004 at 5:07pm |
Sorry bud, Jovian is absolutely correct. Trust me, I've been tinkering with my Pro/carb with RVA for years. I cut down my velocity screw to increase airflow ie...getting more push on the ball. THe same amount of air comes through the valve in the stock setup you are merely restricting airflow to reduce velocity by screwing in. When I put my RVA on, I also used my Palmer's stab to regulate pressure into the gun. I lowered the incoming pressure to reduce velocity initially, but was still shooting hot with the velocity screw all the way out....next step cut the spring...problem is there is now not enough spring pressure to slam the hammer into the valve to get enough air to recock the gun.... Long story short...there is a very fine balance between incoming air pressure, spring tension, and the front velocity screw....mess with the front screw too much and your RVA will have to do most of the work.. I may have been confusing on some parts of my explanation, but I now have a perfect balance between my reg, valve, etc. The gun is uber efficient and actually a little quieter. Long story short...unless you want to tinker a lot, don't cut the front velocity screw now that you have a RVA |
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FyreFly
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Posted: 30 September 2004 at 6:35pm |
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^^ I disagree... after I bought my RVA, I went to the
hardware store and found a grub screw "aka front velocity screw" half the size to replace the stock grub screw. Now when I screw it in to be flush with the outside of the power tube, it does not block any air traveling to the paintball. I use my stab and rva to adjust the air flow and it works fine. |
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System X NME LE WGP Orracle Cocker Tippmann A-5 E-Grip & LPK Tippmann 98C Flatline & LPK |
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Hyper
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Posted: 01 October 2004 at 11:11am |
Yes it will, but everyone's experience may be different depending on the gun used, how broken in the spring is etc. My personal experience involved a bit of tweaking over the chrono to acheive the best balance of efficiency. I DID have to cut the spring b/c my stabilizer/reg. wouldn't let me get the velocity low enough....I had to play with it to get the right balance, but everything runs fantastic now. I'm basically saying, don't mess with something you might not know enough about unless you are willing to learn and/or spend some time tinkering with. Edited by Hyper |
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ItalianoGuy04
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Posted: 01 October 2004 at 3:51pm |
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little off topic aren't we?
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Supe'd up Spyda Victor, don't like it, don't care |
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FyreFly
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Posted: 06 October 2004 at 6:58pm |
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no
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System X NME LE WGP Orracle Cocker Tippmann A-5 E-Grip & LPK Tippmann 98C Flatline & LPK |
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CLANDESTINE
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Posted: 06 October 2004 at 8:12pm |
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ItalianoGuy04,
What’s with your attitude? LordJovian is on the money with his technical explanation. |
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If your mind is too open your brains will fall out.
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jdna12
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Posted: 07 October 2004 at 6:23am |
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I have the kind of RVA that replaces the entire end cap on my A-5, not just the screw and I have no stock. I found that with the adjusting screw on the RVA all the way in, it goes in only as far as the original end cap, therefore, an RVA can only decrease the tension on the drive spring, not increase it. I also went out to the hardware store to find a replacement for my stock velocity screw. I don't see the need to take the whole gun apart to see insite the power tube. Just some good light with the barrel off will do. You want the velocity screw to be flush with the interior wall of the tube. You don't want to go out too far or you will be leaving a bit of a hole that can also create drag on the airflow. After doing all that, I came to realize that when you take into consideration the variances in spring tension, rate of fire, gas pressure, temperature and the fact that we are talking about a blowback Tippmann, there is no way to accurately maintain a constant velocity. I took the thing off. It's only one more silly little upgrade that I don't need to worry about. The field I go to has free air fills with your admission. I keep full and don't care. People, let's stop arguing over scientific theory. If your posts look like a note passed in 4th grade, with matching spelling, punctuation and vocabulary, nobody is going to believe you know any more about the concepts of velocity or pressure either. This isn't about being cool. It's about knowledge and experience used to help those who need it. Respect that. At one time or another, we all need some help. I ask questions here all the time. I just happen to know about this one. If you don't, great! Learn, learn, learn. Don't teach. It makes us all look bad. |
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The sky darkens. In the distance you can hear the roar of the A-5. You shudder for you know it soon will be here.
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Rocket Man
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Joined: 14 August 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 20 |
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Posted: 03 June 2005 at 6:57pm |
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I think there is a missing element in this discussion on how the FVA effects the entire system. Technically Lord Jovian your sink inlistration is flawed in the fact that water is not compressable and air/nitro/CO2 gas is, so the FVA is not going to act like a sink. I would like to explain what is going on with the FVA and how it works. I functions by restricting flow down the power tube and indoing so creating back pressure in the valving area. This back pressure effects the rear bolt and its travel. More pressure=less valve depression/less travel. This is the primary mode of operation of the FVA. Think of it this way, what kind of efficiency do you get "dry firing" your marker as opposed to shooting with paint (mine drops to about half) this is due to almost no back pressure in the valving area which allows the rear bolt to travel much further forward than normal. Which causes a far greater amount of gas to be exhausted. The FVA does effect gas consumption, and it has to do with the back pressure as stated above. There are actually two primary reasons for this, the first was covered in the above paragraph, the second is due to the fact that as the pressure in the valving area increase the pressure differential drops. Air flow (the amount of a gas passed for a given time is directly related to the differntial in pressure, the high pressure traveling it the low pressure area, less differential less gas transfer. A lot of the above discussion does "work" as far as the RVA is concerned. the theory was just a bit flawed. I do agree with one fact.... ItalianoGuy04 needs to stop giving his two cents worth, it isn't worht even that. |
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Life is Hard..... Even Harder if your Stupid!
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Bazz
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Posted: 03 June 2005 at 7:40pm |
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just take the gun point it at you leg and shoot that will fix it!!!
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Rocket Man
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Posted: 03 June 2005 at 8:11pm |
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You want to stop wasting space on the forum. That was a useless post. |
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Life is Hard..... Even Harder if your Stupid!
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