shooting underwater???

No.

You could get if to shoot under water. That is, you could shoot once. After that, you've got water in your gun, on your paint, and you've realized that maybe patrolling the middle of the pond/lake/river wasn't the best idea, after all.

And, even then, where would the paintball go? Into the water...

Real weapons can fire under water and after being submerged because the rounds are sealed and don't require the oxygen from the air for combustion. They won't fire very well under water, if they fire at all, though.

In general, water and guns don't mix. Paintball guns obviously not an exception.


Edited by 5ptcontingency

It is possible. It requires a great deal of work though, let me show you: (We'll use a model 98 for example)

1. Seal the frame. Using rubber cement, cauck, or some other sealing agent, seal every crack, crevice, joint or opening in the gun (Except the barrel). This includes things like the feed elbow connection, the two halves of the frame, all the screw holes, the trigger guard (98c only), and the rear bolt cap.
   This DOES NOT include relief/exhaust holes in regulators or tanks. Sealing these can be dangerous, not to mention stupid. If you experience a velocity spike or an overfill and your exhaust vent is blocked, your tank or regulator could literally explode, injuring or killing anyone nearby. I strongly discourage you from putting anything into an exhaust port, but you may consider covering it loosely with a rubber band. If you experience an overload, the band should stretch and allow the gas to escape.
   
   
2. Rear cocking. You would have to invest in a rear cocking system, like the full boar. Then you'd have to seal the side panel on, as well as do some light sealing around the rear cocking knob (small o-rings come in handy). This will probably lower your BPS, because there will be more friction.
   
   
3. Seal the hopper. Your hopper MUST be airtight. A simple one-piece hopper will, for the most part, already do this. Electric hoppers would have to be dis-assembled and the two halves be sealed together. The hopper must also be sealed where it meets the feed elbow, and around the lid. With the Qloader all you have to do is apply a thin layer of your sealing material around the lip of each pod, the rest of it SHOULD already be water-proof.
   
   
4. The Barrel. You would have to either seal every tiny bit of porting in your barrel (A very tedious and irreversible procedure), or just use a non-ported barrel. Make sure whatever you use has an O-ring on the threads (Or you'd have to seal it on, also very tedious).
   
   
5. The Clincher. Obviously, you need to have the end of the barrel unobstructed in order to shoot. So, (and this is the tricky part) you need to find or make a water-tight quick cap for the end of you barrel. A good start is to find PVC of the right diameter to be sealed onto the end of your barrel. Leave it protruding about an inch for the end of your barrel, as this is what the actual cap will fit into. Depending on how stylized/milled your barrel is, size will differ.
   The cap can be made or bought (look at well supply Co.'s and Home depot type stores) from existing PVC parts. You have to ensure it is large enough that you can effectively seal it into the aformentioned PVC already on your barrel, but small enough that you can get it off quickly. To my knowledge, there is still no quick & easy way to do this, just try different things and see what works.
   
   
6. Usage tips. For starters, because your marker is now airtight, your velocity will almost assuredly go up, this must be accounted for to assure safety. Also you should be very conscious of rust, as this occurs easily without the proper cleaning.
   Finally, if you want to remove your quick-cap as fast as possible, consider attatching a bit of string or chain to it, so that you can pull it off while still keeping your hands on the marker. It will look pretty hick-ish, but it will get the job done.
   
   The A-5 Flatline is probably the easiest barrel to use for this, considering the fact that it is a high performance, non-ported barrel, and the fact that it's shroud goes a long way toward making your quick-cap setup a little less obvious (/stupid looking).
   
   While I wouldn't go scuba diving with this mod, it should get the job done for low-depth submersions, or simple wading.
   
   
   Enjoy!

Edited by Slimz.357

I have seen it done before, actually. A good idea is to use an automag. They are completely sealed and do not need to be cocked at all. Just gas it up and go. As for a barrel, I'd use a smooth bore barrel. A good choice is something like the self cleaning ceramic barrels. J&J makes a good one. Keep in mind that you don't want to completely submerge anything, as you will always get some adverse side effects, but a setup like the afore mentioned one would give you a lot of capability for traveling through water without having to really worry about your gun.

or, you could just seal your hopper.

A 98 will shoot fine coming out from undewrwater, but normally the paint won't feed.

stupid idea very stupid for one thing how would u stay under u would have to be strapped down on sumthing or u would float and the time it would take to take off a cover on the barrel u would probly be shot like 20 times if u came out when there was a person right there and your mask would get all foggy and wet and u couldnt see very well

ugh, once again...enter the VF Tactical...

wouldnt the water get inside and screw with the parts

ive fallen into a river and gone under completely with my gun, spyder sonix, and it worked fine. for a while. the spring rusted because i didnt clean it right away, and there was a few chop shots, other than that it was pretty normal. though the gun is horrible. still, not a good idea taking your gun underwater. try finding another hiding spot.

sucks, don't it?