Lighter Trigger Pull

hey umm the pen spring mod well my opion is that it doesen;t work cue even though the trigger pull is eayser when the gun is not cocked its still the sam hardness when cocked w/out the pen spring but yeah it just my opion and i dunno if there is i'm tryin to figure that out too cuz i'm doin my tournment and i need a short pull too

i did it and you dont really feal the difference if you want a good mod polish your internals.  I felt a big difference when i did it. go to www.model98.net to get some info about it

Edited by pbdude985

I like the pen spring mod. I also polished my internals. I also heard you can use earth magnets (found at radio shak) instead of springs. Someday I will have to try that.

Earth magnets huh? do you have a link on how to install it?

pbdude985 wrote: i did it and you dont really feal the difference if you want a good mod polish your internals.  I felt a big difference when i did it. go to www.model98.net to get some info about it

Polishing the internals is a great mod....If you want to void your warrenty and possibly screw up your gun beyond repair at the same time.

the intelligence of the last two posts astounds me ,,,,

First off WD-40 is a penetrating oil , and will attack the orings of your marker , dont do it .

YWSM ,,, I dont know where you get your info , but it certainly isnt Tippmann , or any of the forumers who have polished their internals !!

In fact,, of the 10,000 or so forumers we have , name me even ONE forumer who legitimately claims to have screwed up his marker by polishing it .

The question was how to lighten the trigger pull , and last night I wrote a lengthy post on just that in this thread , but it got ate when I tried to post it , so here goes again :

There are a couple ways I could recommend for lightening trigger pull , somebody mentioned above that its harder when the marker is gassed up , but thats a crock too , they obiviously havent inspected the way the trigger works in a 98 /98C .

There are two springs that affect the tension of the rear bolt on the sear , the Mainspring , and the sear spring . (Oh ,yeah , the trigger return spring too , ,just remove it ,its not needed )

Both of these can be modified/replaced to lighten the trigger pull , the mainspring can be replaced with kits from Maddmann for the 98c , I believe they have several grades of springs that have worked sucessfully in 98's .

The sear spring , is most of what the discussion has been related to ,in this post so far, and for detailed info , model98.net has instructions and pics to help any that are interested in doing this (penspring mod) .

For further lightening of the trigger pull ,it will require what is known to gunsmiths as polishing the sear . I have done this to both my 98's and the resulting trigger pull is well under a pound , Vs. the 3 pound trigger pull stock . PM me if you want details on how to do this , its a lot of work , and you must pay attention to several details in order to be sucessful . but time runs out for me posting a full detailed How-to right now , I have to go to work

Edited by Shadowminion

^^^^^^^^^^^^^everyones pretty much already said everything

Ok, am off work now , and in response to the numerous PM's I have gotten , I will post sear polishing procedures here , but first I want to say , I am not responsible for any work you do to your marker , and you do so at your own risk .

The sear is a hardened , grey piece of metal , and if you scratch your thumbnail across it , you will feel the roughness .

First off the sear is case hardened , that means the hard metal is no more than 0.040"-0.060" in depth , you do NOT want to remove so much metal that you penetrate beyond this hardening ,in fact , all you want to do is JUST remove the surface roughness from the face of the sear , the face being the small portion of the sear that actually contacts and engages the rear bolt , an area of approximately 1.5mm X 2.5mm .

Second , and just as important , you DO NOT want to change the angle at which the sear engages the bolt , unless you are familiar with gunsmithing and trigger work . that means you must hold the sear very firmly and prevent it from wobbling when polishing it !!

All that being said,, here goes : Go to your automotive parts store , and get some wet or dry sandpaper , I used 1000 grit ,not too agressive on the metal , and leaves a good polished finish .

Get a small perfectly flat surface , I used a small piece of window glass about the size of the sandpaper on a table , and put some water on it to help with the cutting action of the grit , now grip the sear firmly (Yes , you have to remove it from the marker ) , and press it down until you are sure you are matching the existing angle , and begin moving the sear in small figure eights .

You will feel the sandpaper taking away the metal , and eventually will feel the movement get easier , when this happens , inspect the surface for a good flat polish on the face .

 It may take a few times , moving to a fresh area of the sandpaper , until you get something acceptable , but once you get a polished surface all over the face ,its time to quit .

Wash the grit from the sear , lubricate , reassemble , and test fire !

If you in any way feel uncomfortable doing this , but want it done , almost any gunsmith will know this procedure , and should be able to do it for you , at a nominal charge , and have the equipment to do it quickly !

i dont know much and im probably stupid which some or most of u will agree but on my pro/carbine i took out my spring and accually put in a rubber band and it works great for me its never broke or froce in the winter or cold weathe but thats just me and some of u prolly think im dumb but heck it works for me jsut some advice

Shadowminion wrote:  (snip) I will post sear polishing procedures here , but first I want to say , I am not responsible for any work you do to your marker , and you do so at your own risk .   (snip)

 

Polishing the sear is the best way to accomplish a clean break of the trigger, but there is also another method that can help and when combined with the polished sear will produce a target quality trigger pull.

The notch in the bolt into which the sear engages when the gun is cocked if relatively deep. Working on a firearm a smith, besides polishing the sear, may stone the notch to reduce the depth of engagement. It is delicate and a heavy hand may ruin the job requiring a replacement part.

A crude but effective method is to fill the bottom of the notch to limit the depth of engagement. I have done it by taking small pieces of stainless shim stock and glueing one layer at a time into the bottom of the notch. Industrial super glue works very well for this (from McMaster-Carr or Brownells) and is removable to reverse the procedure.

The object here is to limit how deeply the sear engages the notch. The more shallow the engagement the less creep of the trigger before the gun fires. Very careful polishing of the notch also helps, but mistakes can lead to uncontrollable full auto fire. On firearms I have taken 3 lb creepy trigger pulls down to crisp 4 ounce breaks (Ruger semi-auto target pistols). I have also messed up my share of parts and had to replace them. Best way to prevent that is to have a spare part sitting on the table...just in case.

My 98c, after a combination of techniques, has a slighty creepy 6 ounce trigger pull...may cause a problem with some gloves (you cannot feel the trigger well enough to control the trigger break when sharpshooting). With my BSA electronic Red Dot sight, one shot "kills" are much more common.