car wax in barrel

no i havent

welcome to the forums

Edited by *AXE*

my friend and i both have werks barrels and he says that he never breaks any balls but i break them all the time

do you think that i would be able to get it out if it didnt work?

car wax ill dry up into a white residue in less that 30 minutes, and is not made do what you want it to. if you are thinking about putting wax into you barrel to make the balls fly smoother or watever, car wax is not that answer. try a wax coating that dosen't dry up sp fast and is actually made to slick things up. best of luck with getting it all out also. wax repels water.

www.pbteamwow.com

Why not just spray it down with Pam?

Which falls faster, a lead ball or your IQ after reading some of these posts?

PSU Paintball

Actually what you want to do is polishing. Its kinda like polishing your internals but different method and really no benefit

If you want to though, get a straight shot squegee and put some normal gun oil onit and run it through, then was it with water then repeat 2 more times, cleans and smoothes, but like i said the benefits are small

who told you to put car wax in your barrel lol

The Guy wrote:

SnakeEyes wrote:

Why not just spray it down with Pam?

because the propellants eat away at o-rings.

You missed my sarchasm there.

And if the propellants in Pam are going to eat away orings, I don't think they would be safe for cooking.

After thinking about it a bit longer, Pam comically would probably be the best thing to use, considering it is consumable (non-toxic), vegetable oil based (won't cause paintballs to warp), and cheap.

Which falls faster, a lead ball or your IQ after reading some of these posts?

PSU Paintball

i tried the pam idea it didnt help any so i just use the squeege until the balls stop breakin

I have been target shooting for a while now and have learned what I think is the best product to use on a metal barrel.

Militec-1

It’s a metal conditioner that fills in the pores of metal with a synthetic, like Rain-X does glass. It doest change the tolerances because it works inside the metal. Metal treated has an immediately noticed change:

– Corrosion resistance

- Luster

- My favorite, it is verrrry well lubricated. I am meaning that it feels as if oiled, but is completely dry.

This means that if you know anyone living in the mid-east get them some so they don’t jam their AR with the sand sticking in their CLP.

So to apply it to a paintball barrel:

- Go to their website and request a free sample bottle and wait for it to arrive within a couple weeks.

- Put on a glove and start heating your barrel with a HAIR DRYER. Do not do something stupid like putting it in your oven – even on its lowest setting with the door open it’s too hot.

- Once it is uncomfortable to the touch start spreading your militec, let it soak it up, and squeegee it from breach to muzzle. Allow it to cool with it lightly saturated.

- If you want repeat this process, do it 5 times and your barrel will be treated for life. Just remember to let it cool between applications.

- Once your done wipe it dry with squeegee then patches, soft paper towels, or whatever you have; you can fit anything down .68! No need to have any substance in your barrel that could attract & collect dirt/paint/sand ect.

You will be buying a bottle to treat everything metal in your house. The use I heard about that entertained me the most was destruction derby cars. They needed something that they could treat the engine metal with that would allow it to still run after all the oil fell out.

For synthetic barrels use Rain-X and don’t forget to buff and rinse with clean water.

Think and give them all you have from the beginning, and never weaken!