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Teflon Coated Internals

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Embers of Wr@th View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 July 2005 at 3:28pm

Sorry guys this is my first post and I have read all the rules for this part of the forum in advance, so if I make a blunder please forgive me. I have a tippmann 98c with a response trigger setup and love the gun dearly. I can cycle 180 rounds in 10 seconds easily (if you do the math it's 18 rounds per second and I know the official site says 15 rps but I know what I did). I have one problem with it cycling this fast though, I dry ice the rear bolt shut after about one to two hoppers of paint. So I've been working on ways that would reduce the friction in any moving part of the internals and came up with the idea of teflon coating any part of the left and right receiver that is exposed to moving parts as well as coating the moving parts themselves. I don't know if this would cure the dry ice problem (I think the only way to get around that is a nitro tank), but I bet a teflon coating on the internals would speed up the cycling process. I've been working on the design of teflon coated internals but have run out of time with work and school so I tought I would throw it up on the board for all you tippmann guys to look at the idea. Do you see any problem with it in that it may affect the functionality of the gun. Let me know what you think.

Embers

P.S. If tippmann does make one of these I want one... at no charge.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snake6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2005 at 3:42pm

Welcome to the Forum!

The reason why this is not feasible is by the time you spent all the money retooling the plant to spray teflon evenly throughout the internals you would might as well give a HPA tank to everyone free with your purchase.... 

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Embers of Wr@th View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Embers of Wr@th Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2005 at 3:57pm

I realize that retooling the plant would be an expensive deal. You may not have to retool to much though as it would be more of a specialty product that most people would not really need. It would be handy for the players that take their tippmann's to the level of play that the tippmann effect team has gone to. I know that the tippmann effect is constantly dealing with guys on the other team that have ridculous fire/cycling rates. This might give the tippmann marker something close to some of the higher end 4 digit dollar tourney guns.

Embers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snake6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2005 at 4:20pm

...Not really...

Thier guns use HPA, so they dont have to worry about the bolt freezing up.

Also about reducing friction, competent players normally polish thier internals.

Just because an Angel cycles at 29 BPS dosent mean you can fire 29 BPS most professional players only shoot about 15-23 BPS at the max, a maxed out tippy like Effect uses can easily shoot that, any more than 25 BPS is ridiculous.

Its the player behind the gun, not the gun. I shot a guy with an Angel yesterday while shooting my semi auto P/C because I was better than him.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brihard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2005 at 11:14pm
Better idea is Moly coating- molybdenum, I think it is. You can get various gun oils that have moly in them. There's a process for applying them to a paintball gun taht was, unfortunately, destroyed in a hack attack on the Ariakon forums, but it oughta be kicking around somewhere still. It has the effect you're looking for.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unicorn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2005 at 1:19pm
A pure Teflon coating would be too soft and wear quickly, but what you could do if you wanted to spend the money is to find a gunsmith ( are real gunsmith or store) that can send the metal parts off to be plated with something like Robar's Np3, a combination of nickel and Teflon. It's pretty durable, and reduces friction. There is also Black-T (not to be confused with Black-Ti) that is a black teflon, great for rust resistance, but not nearly durable enough. Industrial hard chroming would be the most durable and still has less friction than aluminum or most steels. Hard chroming is noth te same as is done to car rims or bumpers, it's a lot harder (90+ on the Rockwell scale, hard knives are only around 61) and more durable, no peeling. But these are all fairly espensive options.
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