liquid co2

hey i was wondering how you would go about getting the liquid co2 out of a tank, if there is any, and if so how, thanks

What?

1. To get rid of the liquid C02 in a tank, you shoot it until it's empty...

2. Paint has liquid in it. Store at room temperature out of irect sun or heat.

co2 is liquid......you basically have to have that liquid in the tank.......and ya what they said

GI JOES SON wrote: thanks, and sorry for the confusion, i meant could it shoot paint with liquid co2 in the tank lol

Your question is still not clear. CO2 is present in the tank in liquid form. The marker operates off CO2 gas. For the most part CO2 liquid vaporises and exits the tank as a gas. If you shoot very fast the high rate of draw on the tank may cause liquid to flow into the marker. This causes what most people call "spikes" in pressure and make it hard to get consistent velocity. Pointing the marker down between shots will also allow liquid to flow into the marker. Liquid CO2 getting into the marker won't hurt the marker, but blowing CO2 snow out of the barrel will deplete the tank much more quickly than if only gas is making it through.

There are several ways to try to assure only gas goes into the marker. Install an anti-siphon valve, which is a tube inside your tank that curves up into the gas bubble area of the tank. This doesn't work if you point the marker down between shots. Another method is to use a remote. The long tube between the tank and the marker gives any liquid CO2 time to vaporize. Adding an expansion chamber is another method. This provides a small chamber on the marker that allows any liquid CO2 a place to warm and evaporate before going into the marker...actually not as effective as the remote.

Or switch to HPA, which eliminates all CO2 problems.

evillepaintball wrote: I see what your saying, i read an article somewhere, i think it might have been on palmers site, but it said that running pure liquid into your gun is actually beneficial, it will cause better consistancy or efficency or somethin, but to do that, you should run a verticle tank setup or if possile, run the tank straight into the valve.   but eliminate as much distance between tank and valve as possible, to get the liquid out, have an anti-siphon installed in your tank, but instead of the tube being bent, just have a straight one installed and it should work exelently

NO NO NO NO NO. Unless you have a really old Tippmann (SMG era and around there) you do NOT want liquid CO2 in your gun. The CVX valve and the guns that use it are designed to operate off of gaseous CO2 that evaporates off the liquid. Liquid in your 98/Custom/Pro/A-5/Pro-Carb can ruin your internals. Don't do it!

Pumps are also great applications for the use of liquid CO2 (pulled form a siphon tank as opposed to an anti-siphon tank). I believe its not so much the valve as it is the electronics in modern markers that are at biggest risk from the cold of the liquid CO2 expanding in the valve to gas. For a better description see the info on Doc's site in the tech section: http://www.docsmachine.com/tech/liquid.html

Excerts below:

Doc's Machine Shop Tech Article wrote: Now then, we have the basics of Liquid operation in mind, now, you probably want to know how to use it on your particular paintgun. Okay, first off, unfortunately, not all paintguns can utilize Liquid CO2 operation. Almost all pumps can, along with most blowback semi-autos.However, several markers, including some of the top-of-the-line ones, cannot be run on liquid for various reasons. For example, the Automag has a regulator and sensitive internal seals which are damaged by liquid CO2. Velocities and internal pressures would be astronomical, and very unsafe, not only for you holding it, but the guy you’d be shooting at. The Autococker also has a regulator which controls the pressure fed to the ‘pneumatics’, the cocking mechanism. While the valve and bolt systems can easily accommodate liquid use, the pneumatics would be unreliable at best, damaged at worst. Other markers which have a regulator built-in, or used to regulate velocities, such as the Equalizer, Desert Fox, Shocker, Typhoon, Blazer, Sovereign and Automag RT, similarly cannot use liquid CO2, and could very easily be damaged by it. Some ‘guns that can use liquid include the Pro-Am/Pro-Lite/MiniLite, Raptor, F-1/2/4 Illustrators, Spyder, AlleyCat/ThunderCat/BobCat/Puma, VM-68/PMI-3, Icon/Z-1/Mega-Z, Master/Combat, Stingray 1&2, Mirage, BlackKnight, and probably several more I’ve missed. Even some of the older discontinued ‘guns will take liquid, like the Storm, the Blade, SMG-60, 68-Special, Poison, and Patriot 1&2. However, there are a few exceptions to the rule. For example, Tippmann’s Carbine uses a unique “floating valve”, and the seals between the receiver and the valve don’t take well to the freezing action of full-time liquid. As I write this, rumor has it TP is working on a newer, less troublesome valve, so we’ll see what the future brings. Also, there are a few markers that come with an expansion chamber from the factory, like the VM-EXE. If at all possible, the expansion chamber should be removed. (Note: A newer Carbine valve was released, called the CVX: It withstands liquid perfectly.)

This quote is taken directly form the article from a respected paintball marker machinist. The only addition to the quote was the bolding regarding the CVX valve.

Using a remote will also give the liquid co2 time to form into a gaseous state.

Bruce A. Frank wrote: OK, so some markers will work with liquid CO2 running through them??? How in such a case is the pressure regulated from shot to shot to assure consistent ball velocity?

Because consistency is all about assuring 100% consistency in propellant pressure. If you can assure 100% conversion from liquid CO2 to gas CO2 (using anti-siphon, remotes, expansion chambers ...), then you have consistency. If you can assure 100% maintanance of liquid CO2 into the valve for expansion in the valve and barrel than you have consistency. HPA is consistent because there is no liquid / gas state conversion and thus the regulated output pressure will remain the pressure until the tank empties lower than it.

What was stated above by AdmiralSenn is correct in that the old SMG series Tippmanns used liquid CO2, in their case it was to maintain velocity in rapid fire / full-auto. However, many CO2 pump players still use Liquid CO2 in the winter as it reduces the effects of external temperature (though is compounded by the fact that in low temps it does lose effeciency & thus drains the tank faster).

COOLDUDE wrote: just dont try to use liquid co2

If you use a CO2 tank you are using liquid CO2. A pressurized tank maintains roughly 60-70% of its volume in a liquid state (I know someone will come say the specific percentage, but for now you get the point). CO2 is not like HPA. That's why the CO2 burst disk is rated so much lower than the HPA's.

I remember that article. It was about avoiding the problems of inconsistency of CO2 in cold weather (cold winters mostly). Instead of going through the problems of trying to ensure you only are getting gas, you use a siphon tank to make sure that every shot is sucking up liquid. Liquid CO2 is supposed to almost instantanously expand when it has the room when the valve is hit. There isn't enough pressure any longer to keep it at a liquid. It takes cold and pressure to keep a gas at a liquid state, and the temp it takes CO2 to convert from liquid to a gas is very low. The pressure in the tank is what keeps it a liquid when above that temp, somewhere in the negative 50's ish F. Liquid CO2 can not exist at atmospheric pressures. It needs at least 200 PSI to remain a liquid IIRC.