????WALKING????

Yes, you can walk an e-grip.

yup, i would get the blade but i dont want to spend an extra 20-30 bucks but the double and e-grip is walkable yes

tippy a5 wrote: Is it possible to walk my GTA double trigger with an E-Grip?

Any electronic trigger system that requires only a few thousands of an inch of movement and a couple of ounces of pressure can be walked. The stock GTA double trigger has to travel a long way to make contact with the electric trigger switch. To be most effective you have to add limit screws to the trigger body to adjust out the excess lash. This allows the trigger to need to move rearward just far enough to fire and move forward just far enough to release the switch.

 

Edited by Bruce A. Frank

There has been many people wanting to know how to make their
mehanical triggers walk-able, so I decided that I'm up to the task to put
together an article that has it all.

Step 1: This is for those people that still have single triggers. You're not
going to be able to walk a single trigger, so first we need to make a
double. This can be easily dont by cutting off the bottom where it starts
to bend, drilling a small hole up through the middle, and glueing
something round up there. One easy thing to use is a hex key. Be carefull
when doing this because if the hole is too small then you can crack the
trigger. After you are finished drilling it, find a allen wrench that fis snug,
but so you can get it up there. (god that sounds stupid) Use either epoxy
or JB Weld to glue it in, then measure for length and cut off the part
where it bends. Me and RedBull both did this and currently use it on our
setups. In fact I had a GTA double and sold it after using this.



Step 2: If you already have a double trigger then the first thing that we
are going to do is get rid of the slop in the pull. This can be done easily
by finding a drill bit with a diameter of .1285 inches, or if you cant tell,
one that fits more snug into the pin hole in the trigger. You want to put
this in the front one from which the trigger pivots on. This will make it
less wobbly, and shorter in some cases.


Step 3: The next thing that we are going to do is go ahead and make a
rear trigger stop. This will get rid of all the excess pull after the sear is
engaged. There are a few ways to do these and I will start off with the
rear. (hehe) This can be done by tapping the R/T hole, and putting a
screw in there. The right size tap for this hole is a 1/4-20, and then you
need a 1/4 20 threaded bolt. You can either put the head inside or
outside. If it is outside then it will be easier to adjust, but if it is inside
then it will look nicer. It is up to the user. Or you can use your single
trigger guard. To use your single trigger guard, cut it near the end where
it goes into the bottom of the trigger. You can now do a few things, either
A- just file it down and do not use any screw, just use the plastic. B- File
it down until it is flush, drill out a hole and tap it using a set screw
(recommended 5/16, with 4-40 tap), or C- do the same as "B" but use a
regular screw. Either way will be fine.


Step 4: Now we are going to make a front trigger stop. This will help to
shorten your pre trigger pull. There area few ways to do this. The "best"
way to do this is to drill a hole through the part of your trigger where the
spring rests. Then you can tap it and put a set screw in there and have it
fully adjustable. You can even go another step and drill a a small hole in
the bottom of the gun to make it adjustable from the outside. Another
way to do this (or if your lazy) is to apply some duck tape or something
on the power tube between that and the trigger. I highly do not
recommend this because it is not very good cosmetic wise, and it is a
pain to adjust by layering tape. Here is a few pics of some Evil triggers
that have set-screws...



Step 5: The next thing to do is to polish the recievers where the trigger
moves on. This helps to get rid of the powdercoat and it will make your
pull smoother and possibly lighter. This can be done either with a dremel
and buffing wheel, or steel wool. With either application you should use
mothers or some other polish.



Step 6: The next thing to do is to change some springs. I suggest either
getting rid of your trigger spring, or replacing it with a pen spring. It will
work fine with no spring because the sear will reset it, but if you dont
want it flopping around when you have no air in it, and it is not cocked,
then go ahead and throw one in. Another thing that you can do, but I
don't necessarely reccomend is to put an extra link in your sear spring.
This will make the sear lighter and and in turn the trigger pull. If you do
this wrong though it can lead to double firing, so only do this if you have
a good understanding of the gun. Another thing that you can do, but I
certainly do not recommend is replacing your sear spring with
orthodontic rubber bands. These wear out and can lead to double firing.
Some people swear by this mod though so try it out and see if you like it.
The last spring that can be changed is the drive spring. You can either
replace it with the green one from the maddman kit, or the lpk rear
cocking apparatus. Either will lessen the weight put onto the sear, making
it easier to trip.




Step 7: Practice, practice, practice... Practice, and more practice.. There
ya go NN...


This should make your trigger pull very nice, and if done right, probably
walk-able. I take no responsibility if you ruin any part of your gun by
doing any of these mods. Thanks to Evil-98 for letting me use his
picture.. And NN and _m98_ for their hel
....i found this, i didn't write this.

Commander Cool wrote: hey thats great, too bad he has an Egrip, rendering your lengthy article useless.

oops....whatever...he can still polish the internals of his A-5 and do some
trigger stops....