Polished internals

Do you guys recommend doing this, and does it really even help anything? Another question, if I were to do this, do I need to take out the power tube? If so, how wesy is it to get back in?

i notticed my HPA would shot more before running out like a good 140 to 250 on average.

^^No.

Uberhamster wrote: So, if I were to remove the powertube and then just screw it back in,my velocity will remain unaltered and everything, correct?

well you might have to adjust it again but it
should stay the same. all you do is unscrew the two
screws on the side of the receivers. once you get
them out it might seem like the powertube is stuck.
but its not. it just has a tight fit. just yank it out. putting
it back is easy. stick it back in there and screw it in

Uberhamster wrote: So, if I were to remove the powertube and then just screw it back in,my velocity will remain unaltered and everything, correct?

No, not necessarily. Velocity changes from day to day, from time of day, from temperature of the day and the fill in the tank.

Polishing the inside of the shell is an excellent way to smooth up the action. Concentrate your effort is the areas where you see scuffing...both in the rear and front bolt areas.

A lot of people use steel wool. Better to use stainless steel wool if you can find it. Smooth down the high spots than use a Dremel Tool with a felt wheel or bob and the red "jewelers rouge" obtainable for the Dremel at most hardware stores that carry the tool. The rouge will take the smooth interior to a mirror finish.

After the polishing is done then lightly rub the rear area around the rear bolt with lithium grease. Wipe the front chamber area, where the "O" ring rubs, with light mineral oil (Hoppe's oil is recommended by Tippmann...Gun shops or WalMart carry it) then wipe away the excess. If you do not lightly oil the front chamber area after polishing the "O" ring on the forward bolt actually wants to stick to the extremely smooth receiver surface.

Your marker will operate noticeably smoother and make less noise. You may find that ball velocity is higher because the rear bolt is smoother and striking the valve pin just a bit harder.

You seem to be worried about velocity change. If you are not getting chrono checked at a range on a regular basis then you should invest in a hand held chrono...about $50 to $70 from Ebay.

Also, the valve screws don't come Loc Tite'd from the factory, but when replacing them using Blue Loc Tite is a good idea...pull down to a snug  tightness, careful not to strip them. You need to get used to disassembling and re-assembling your marker. Get over the fear that you might do something wrong. It goes together the same way it comes apart. Look at the stickies at the start of the forum subject list that show exploded views of the internals. It is easy. You'll become an expert on Tippmanns.

Edited by Bruce A. Frank

i did it just because i was bored. i was glad i did it though. i barely notice a difference but i know a lot of the friction is gone on the inside.