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Stripped valve holes....:Cry: |
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senghing27 
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Joined: 14 February 2006 Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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 Topic: Stripped valve holes....:Cry:Posted: 14 February 2006 at 7:26pm |
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Well, i have had my tippmann 98 custom for some time now, i was reassembling it and stripped the valve holes. How much does a replacement cost?? Is there any home remedy? Thanks
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Bango
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Posted: 14 February 2006 at 7:50pm |
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senghing27
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Posted: 14 February 2006 at 7:52pm |
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OMG thanks so much.
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Gasdrinker
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Strike 1 - Language 6/27 Joined: 07 February 2006 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 278 |
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Posted: 15 February 2006 at 7:12pm |
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haha $17, poor bastard.
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Tippmann A-5/Zeus G1
E-Grip /w APE board QEV Vortex Flatline Dye UL 14 in. R5 Hopper Lapco offset rail with Tac Light/Scope OpsGear MP5 Sliding Stock OpsGear MP5 Mag kit SpecOps Front grip |
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trado
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Joined: 05 January 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Posted: 15 February 2006 at 7:22pm |
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I had this and I got some longer screws at the local hardware store. they were a little to long so i had to cut them down. It worked for me
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Tippyprouser
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Posted: 16 February 2006 at 10:15pm |
just to say this is ONLY the body, all the internals would have to be taken out of the one you have now. if you know how to do this good. but if you don't i would recommend getting it witht he internals. i think there is a link to one on the bottom of the that page. |
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Setup:
Tippmann Custom Pro E-trigger 12" All American BT Folding Stock GTA Inline Expansion Chamber Kit Dead on Pro seal Cyclone Feed System Remote Line Polished internals |
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Bruce A. Frank
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KRL Reincarnated? Joined: 27 March 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3063 |
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Posted: 17 February 2006 at 2:45pm |
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The holes could be tapped to the next larger size, but the cost of the tap and the tools to do things correctly will exceed the cost of a new valve, which is about $30. You could buy a new body for about $17 and assemble the old parts into it. Go to my post in Marker Trouble? Read Maintenance Archive for instructions and pictures on how to get it apart. There are other solutions that can get you operational in the short run and delay the expenditure for a while. One is to put Red LocTite in the holes and install new screws. Snug it up lightly then use a clamp to keep the screws pressed tightly into the valve body (valve installed in the marker) until the LocTite sets up (not very long....a few hours). The same thing could be done with an epoxy like JB Weld. Later when you need to remove things using a soldering gun to apply heat to the heads of those LocTite'd or epoxied screws will make them easier to remove. It needs to be a higher powered soldering gun, 40 watts or more, to heat the screws enough to soften the bond. I have used this method dozens of times. Just push the tip firmly against the screw head long enough to make the screw head too hot to touch with your finger. Immediately take it out with the screw driver. This method may actually leave the threads formed in the hole intact for re-assembly. Just touch the screw's threads with a bit more LocTite and gently tighten them into the hole again. |
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spudcrazy
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Joined: 14 July 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 363 |
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Posted: 17 February 2006 at 3:45pm |
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Don't feel bad, I did the same thing the day before I was supposed to play. The only thing the local shop had, was the entire valve assembly. Now I have spare parts. (I'll never try installing the hose, while the valve is still in the marker.
 ). I've since taken my marker apart lots and lots of times with no problem. You live and learn....
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Bango wrote: