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98C problems

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DVLCHLD View Drop Down
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    Posted: 20 July 2006 at 6:19pm
There's been a problem with the 98C since about 8-10 months ago. The rear bolt and sear are made out of materials that are too soft. This causes the marker to have problems recocking every so often. Everyone at my field that has purchased a 98C within the past 8-10 months has had the same problem. I've also seen people on other web sites discussing this problem. After about 3-5 thousand shots this problem arises. We've sent my friends 98C to Tippmann 3 times and they just keep replacing the rear bolt and sear and shipping it back to us. My questions is--Has Tippmann acknowledged this problem and if so are they taking steps to correct it? I've got an older 98C and it still works like the day I bought it.
I've never seen anyone own the woods because of what marker they use.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NJnets5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2006 at 6:29pm

i've never heard of that.  i bought my 98c in may and it works great. it doesnt seem too soft or anything like that. 

Tippmann 98 Custom
-Response Trigger
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-32 Degrees NightStick Barrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote barn_user Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2006 at 7:38pm
I agree with NJnets5...I've never heard of this problem before. I've heard if you do the straw mod it can wear the sear and hammer out quick than normal use but other than that...notta.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DVLCHLD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2006 at 7:47pm
That's great news!! How many shots have you guys fired with your markers? barn_user when did you buy your marker? I'm trying to figure out if this problem has been corrected. I usually recommend the 98C to the newbies at my field. Anybody else out there have a new 98C with at least 5,000 shots fired with it? I'm liking what I'm reading so far.
I've never seen anyone own the woods because of what marker they use.
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call tippmann

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2006 at 3:41pm

Originally posted by DVLCHLD DVLCHLD wrote:

There's been a problem with the 98C since about 8-10 months ago. The rear bolt and sear are made out of materials that are too soft. This causes the marker to have problems recocking every so often. Everyone at my field that has purchased a 98C within the past 8-10 months has had the same problem. I've also seen people on other web sites discussing this problem. After about 3-5 thousand shots this problem arises. We've sent my friends 98C to Tippmann 3 times and they just keep replacing the rear bolt and sear and shipping it back to us. My questions is--Has Tippmann acknowledged this problem and if so are they taking steps to correct it? I've got an older 98C and it still works like the day I bought it.

The hammer is soft, the sear is as hard as a piece of glass. Rapid fire, using an R/T, or an E-Trigger set on full auto, will beat up the hammer and sear very quickly. Before I moved on to the E-Bolt I put a year and a half on stock hammer and sear...that is roughly 50,000 shots on parts that were used when I got the marker...firing semi auto only.

High cycle rates tend to wear the hammer notch and chip the sharp edge on the sear. Either that or you are playing in a sand pit and wearing those parts out with the grit. Your experience that leads you to call those parts defective, particularly when they have been replaced more than once, is certainly not typical...and in my book a little suspect.

I have a new hammer and and a couple of sears for a 98C in my parts box. I bought these only about 3 months ago directly from Tippmann Parts. I carry them on the odd chance my setup will fail and I can convert back to mechanical to prevent missing a day of play. I have also given these parts to other players who have had failures (for various reasons, usually user error). They pay me or replace the parts in my kit.

I have a hardness tester in my tools and just checked the hardness of the hammer notch and sear side by side with a three year old hammer and sear. Both read exactly the same. How often do you disassemble and clean your marker?

 



Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 21 July 2006 at 3:49pm
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DVLCHLD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DVLCHLD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2006 at 10:49pm
I'm talking about 3-5 thousand shots fired. We play evey other Sunday and clean the markers after each game day. I've been playing paintball for 19 years and I grew up in a machinme shop and I'm a technition by trade. I host private games and all the new 98Cs at our field start having this problem after 3-5 thousand shots. The marker we've shiped to Tippmann 3 times belongs to my friend. Each time it starts doing this I take it apart and the wear on the rear bolt is so bad it actually has a sharp edge across the bottom of the bolt that starts dragging against the inside of the reciever halves. We play in normal woods with no sand. The markers I'm talking about are standard 98Cs with no R/T or electric triggers. My 98C is 5 years old and still works great. The markers in question are new. I'm a Tippmann fanatic. I've been asking guys on SpecOps about this problem and alot of them are having the same problem also. As we keep playing we're keeping an eye on my friends marker. If, after 5,000 rounds fired, this problem doesn't come back I will assume Tippmann has corrected the problem. I'll let you know.
I've never seen anyone own the woods because of what marker they use.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2006 at 4:04pm

Originally posted by DVLCHLD DVLCHLD wrote:

I'm talking about 3-5 thousand shots fired. We play evey other Sunday and clean the markers after each game day. I've been playing paintball for 19 years and I grew up in a machinme shop and I'm a technition by trade. I host private games and all the new 98Cs at our field start having this problem after 3-5 thousand shots. The marker we've shiped to Tippmann 3 times belongs to my friend. Each time it starts doing this I take it apart and the wear on the rear bolt is so bad it actually has a sharp edge across the bottom of the bolt that starts dragging against the inside of the reciever halves. We play in normal woods with no sand. The markers I'm talking about are standard 98Cs with no R/T or electric triggers. My 98C is 5 years old and still works great. The markers in question are new. I'm a Tippmann fanatic. I've been asking guys on SpecOps about this problem and alot of them are having the same problem also. As we keep playing we're keeping an eye on my friends marker. If, after 5,000 rounds fired, this problem doesn't come back I will assume Tippmann has corrected the problem. I'll let you know.

Since the wear seems to be concentrated on the hammer, have you considered taking a Tippmann hammer and heat treating it yourself?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NJnets5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2006 at 4:41pm
not everyone is as handy as u
Tippmann 98 Custom
-Response Trigger
-Double Trigger
-32 Degrees NightStick Barrel
-Pen Spring Mod
-Straw Mod
-Polished Internals
-Co2
-18 bps

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2006 at 5:40pm

Originally posted by NJnets5 NJnets5 wrote:

not everyone is as handy as u

Maybe not, but DVLCHLD appears to have the skill set to glean the recipe from the Machinist Handbook and do it. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NJnets5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2006 at 5:54pm
u are so wise
Tippmann 98 Custom
-Response Trigger
-Double Trigger
-32 Degrees NightStick Barrel
-Pen Spring Mod
-Straw Mod
-Polished Internals
-Co2
-18 bps

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DVLCHLD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2006 at 6:18pm
Originally posted by Bruce A. Frank Bruce A. Frank wrote:

Since the wear seems to be concentrated on the hammer, have you considered taking a Tippmann hammer and heat treating it yourself?

                                                                                           That's a good idea. My family owns a machine shop. I wonder if I could heat treat the sear too? I'll called my dad, he'll know.
I've never seen anyone own the woods because of what marker they use.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shadowminion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 July 2006 at 11:17am

Best way without a heat treating furnace is possibly an oil bath quench . (A lot will depend on what alloy of steel was used to make the sear and rear hammer , very risky business , but if all else fails , why not ?)

I've got a Titanium hammer which is near impossible to heat-treat and the wear, or deformation on it is minimal for the time being (estimated 7K shots of use on it ) , the only caveat I can offer on heat treating is this , you "WANT" one of the metals to be a little "Soft" ,,, Two hardened metals striking each other will lead to chipping or shattering one or the other metal part . the method above is a form of case hardening which may, or may not be suitable for the part...

As you mentioned you've been around machine shops for quite some time , dress out the burr you have on the rear hammer and hand finish the sear engagement groove back to a 90 Degree surface ,or if you have access to a small surface grinder , indicate the bottom of the groove so its flat , and dress off the engagement surface with the side of the wheel , from what I've seen and experienced , the rear hammer isnt case hardened or hardened steel of any kind .

If you were to remake the rear hammer , I might consider using an "A" series tool steel stock , and leave it unhardened , it will work harden some as it is used , an advantage to that would be in that it would be a one piece hammer and you could drill it out to lighten it and make the marker cycle faster (see the Dark Horizons Ti-Lite hammer for exactly what I mean there) .

Tippmann did change its ownership structure a while back (18 months or so ?) , so its entirely possible they sought out new suppliers for their materials in the name of cost savings (thats usually not a good thing for the consumer , us ) .

Good luck , hope you find a fix to the problem , I for one would be interested in hearing what the final outcome is !

SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote c98dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 August 2006 at 7:46pm
I have to agree with DVLCHLD that the sear and the rear bolt might be too "soft". 3 of us started having the same rapid fire problem at round about the same time.. after about 2000 shots.
On closer inspection, the sear and the bolt appeared to be warned out. We swapped the sears between two guns, and presto , problem solved because each had a different wear out patern... but which of course would lead to quiker wear out. Which is currently the problem. After a few hundred shots, the rapid fire start, and then we have to file the sear and bolt edge a bit.

A 4th guy joined also with a new C98(without ACT)A few hundred shots later he also has the problem, while his buddies playing with the new C98 with ACT does not have the problem(not yet after almost 3000 shots)
Sending the guns back to Tippmann for replacement parts is not an option since the transport cost between Africa and USA would almost add up to the price of a new gun.

The only solution left is ordering new parts... and hoping that they will be of better quality.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shadowminion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 August 2006 at 10:05pm

If the sear is exhibiting wear after so few a number of rounds through the marker , them there's definitly a problem . You should NOT be able to do anything to the metal of the sear with a normal file , its that hard (or should be) !

The Machinist Handbook outlines a good procedure for case hardening steel in oil . the materials are pretty basic , and the method is primitive , but effective .

There are a number of other ways to case harden steel , depending on what  materials you have available Ie. Coke for a blacksmith's forge , Ground Bone chips , torches (propane or Oxy-acetylene) etc .

If you do decide to harden the sears (that is , if they fail the file test) , I would carefully examine the fit of the sear to the hammers ,after the hammer engagement surfaces have been reconditioned of course , and file or grind the sear to fit exactly parallel to the notch in the hammer . I've noticed the sear from Tippmann doesnt fit perfectly , and the angle the sear does engage at , once it begins to wear the hammer , it will contribute to the rapid fire problem you are experiencing .

 DIY fixes arent for everybody , but the distances and expenses involved may make it a bit more attractive while you are waiting for your parts to arrive from Tippmann .

Tippmann has a Toll free number you may be able to contact them at , 1-800-533-4831 . I dont know how the time zones differ or international dialing work for you , but its worth a try .

SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ilford Rule Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 August 2006 at 6:22pm
that sounds strange. I've got a CPro bought last december, and while it didnt initially work too well (i ran Comp. Air and now it works fine for some reason... ... this has had me, a friend, 2 technincians, and a tippmann rep confused since it happened.. (skip firing fixed by HPA).) anyways, ive put AT LEAST 4 cases through it, maybe 5, maybe even more, and it works perfectly still. Consider just buying replacements, or case harden the parts if you feel capable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SSOK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 August 2006 at 8:56pm

BUFFALO GROVE, IL - August 10, 2006 - It has come to our attention that some 98 Customs and 98 Custom Pros made earlier this year (serial numbers for 98 Custom are 978,401-1,091,000; serial numbers for 98 Custom Pro are 32,601-49,400) may have been manufactured with a sear spring that was not within normal performance standards. A marker with a sub-standard spring may experience pre-mature wear of the rear bolt and sear mechanism causing the bolt to continuously actuate (sounds like your tank is out of air). We believe this performance issue is primarily found in markers with response triggers (RT) and electronic grips (E-Grips), but the issue may arise in markers with a stock trigger.

Tippmann has a long history of manufacturing high quality, reliable products and we truly apologize for any performance issues and inconvenience players may have encountered. Our goal is to repair any marker that may have experienced this situation and get you back on the playing field as soon as possible. Please contact Tippmann's customer service department at 1-800-533-4831 if you are experiencing this problem for appropriate handling of your repair.

 

 

I think this will solve all of your problems

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