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valve issues... |
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ultmate98
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Fear the THUMB!! Joined: 25 February 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 721 |
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Topic: valve issues...Posted: 16 September 2006 at 10:47am |
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i now tippmanns backwards and forewards and i cant figure this one out. i broke my dads powertube and bolt (i got pics if yall want them) and got a replacement from my local proshop. the guy literally pulled a gun off the shelf and took them out, so i know they have never seen use. when i put air to it, i can hear it leaking out the valve. ive heard putting oil in the asa will help seat the orings, and ive tried that. i have another valve that i know works, so im going to put that in, but id like to know xactly whats wrong
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Bandit5
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Joined: 14 August 2006 Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Posted: 16 September 2006 at 12:00pm |
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If by shelf you mean wall, as in a display model, then it could be damage due to excessive dry fire by customers who want to see the gun. Or maybe the seal in valve dried out a bit.
I don't believe that this will be hard to fix either way. The first thing I would try would be to take the left reciver half off and pour a dozen or so drops of silicone gun oil directly into the hole that pin comes out of in the valve while pushing the valve in and out with your finger. Work the valve for a little bit longer to make sure the oil works its way into the seals. The gas it up and try again. If that doesn't work, I would dissassemble the valve and inspect each seal looking for debris stuck in there (clean it out) or for damage to the seals (just replace individual parts). |
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Shadowminion
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Strike 1 - Language, 3/20 Joined: 06 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1625 |
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Posted: 16 September 2006 at 12:06pm |
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It might be helpful to know how the power tube and bolt got broken , to get an Idea of the stresses/ type of forces that the valve was subject to . Just out of curiosity , how many rounds approximately , have been shot through your dad's old valve ? On the older CVX valves , Tippmann used a teflon paste to seal the braided airline with as it screwed into the valve , and I have had a small blob of this stuff come loose after about 15-20 thousand rounds (with regular oiling thru the ASA ), and get into the valve seats causing a leak similar to what you have . |
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SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
Widowmaker , under construction |
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ultmate98
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Fear the THUMB!! Joined: 25 February 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 721 |
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Posted: 16 September 2006 at 12:58pm |
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i really cant tell you, but no more thn 5 or 6 thousand (and that is prolly way over guesstamating it)
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Tippmania
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No, IM right! Joined: 13 September 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Posted: 16 September 2006 at 2:54pm |
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Another strong reason why you should buy your gun, and parts, new. If I were you because of the power-tube cracking I would have gotten a JCS Red-Hot Powertube.... makes your gun have nice little *BOOM* when you fire it if you have a short barrel. And it's aluminum and comes with a front-derlin-hexadon bolt.
Edited by Tippmania - 16 September 2006 at 2:56pm |
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Tippmann A-5
- Shocktech Drop + On\Off - Super R\T - Q.E.V. - Red Hot Powertube - Stock - Flatline + Metadyne Shroud - R.I.S. Foregrip - X-Core - Macro - BT Fixed Sight Rail |
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Shadowminion
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Posted: 16 September 2006 at 9:12pm |
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Hmm, If you are thinking about "Flushing" anything out of your valve with oil , there would be an easier alternative : Remove your barrel and CO2 tank , invert the marker and put regular lubricating oil into the ASA , like you were oiling the internals , but about 3-4 times as much oil , screw the tank back on and dry fire the marker about 40 times , repeat this once or twice and have an old , but clean towel covering the front of the recievers so you can see if you are blowing any debris out . This should flush anything thats loose out of your valve , but you'll probably have to dry fire it quite a bit to remove the majority of oil from your system before putting your barrel back on . If you keep the marker inverted while you are dry firing it , you will also feed liquid CO2 , which also may help flush out any foriegn bits and pieces from the air system . Be CAREFUL of your hands when doing this , liquid CO2 will cause frostbite almost instantly on contact with skin !! Edited by Shadowminion - 16 September 2006 at 9:17pm |
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SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
Widowmaker , under construction |
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Monk
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Joined: 23 October 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6557 |
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Posted: 17 September 2006 at 1:41pm |
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Where out the valve is it leaking? Did you cock it before you aired it? And is the air still going through when cocked?
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ultmate98
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Posted: 17 September 2006 at 10:45pm |
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monk- i really dont know, but i know that its NOT the gas line (ive locitied it, thought that leaked, and took that of and tefloned it) i cocked it and it did leak. bandit-it was a display, but i doubt it got fired THAT much ( it was out of a brand new 98 ACT) |
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Monk
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Posted: 18 September 2006 at 5:15pm |
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Internal oring might be shot. Id take it back to them and have them fix it. They should fix it for free seeings how its thier part.
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paintballworm
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Behold......the power of Worm. Joined: 28 June 2002 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 101 |
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Posted: 21 September 2006 at 2:23pm |
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A buddiy of mine had the same proble. He bought his 98 custom. played 2 games with it and put not more than a case through it before it started leaking out of the valve. I tried all of the above and finally had to resort to changing the valve o-rings. Now it works great, so it could just be one of the o-rings.
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