double trigger 98 custom

i have a 98 custom without A.C.T. and was cosidering getting a double trigger but i was wondering if it would create a problem with jamming and ball chopping

you wont be able to walk it without the egrip,so its pretty useless

with extensive modding necessary though

ya with all the work you'd have to do and then having a mech that is still harder to walk than an electro I think getting egrip is a simplier idea. Or ebolt if your gun is old enough.

it will be alot more comfortable to shoot for extended periods...but it wont affect your rof without and egrip

The pull itself wouldn't officially be lighter. 

Although it might feel that way because you might be pulling with two fingers, or also cause you are pulling at a lower and farther point from the movement of the sear with could make the pull easier. (Think of moving a heavy rock, then think of proping it with a strong stick and pushing down on the end of the stick - you'll have an easier time moving the rock.) So you might have a bit very very very slight bit of an easier time pulling the trigger from a lower position. 

But the sear, hammer, rear spring and internals are still still the same therefore the pull legally/officially speaking isn't lighter.

no it wont cause any problems, but it wont increase your performance at all. it might look cooler or be more comfortable but you wont see an increase in speed. if you plan to buy an RT anytime in the future, dont buy a double trigger because its easier to use an RT with a single trigger.

The leverage of the longer trigger does reduce the finger pressure required to fire the marker, but it has to travel farther before release.

I did a lot of modification to my mechanical sear, hammer and springs. I was never able to refine those parts well enough to walk the trigger with a double trigger. When I installed the E-Bolt it was still difficult to walk the trigger until I installed fore and aft trigger stops. Over travel in either direction greatly slows operation. The trigger needs to be adjusted so that it just barely moves forward enough to allow the switch to reset and just rearward enough to trip the switch.

Running with no trigger spring at all, depending only on the switch's internal spring to push the trigger forward helps with speed, up to a point. The light spring inside the switch cannot generate enough pressure to return the trigger to its reset position very quickly (weight/inertia of the trigger). As my trigger walking abilities improved (got faster) I had to reinstall a very light pen spring to improve trigger return speed.

Also, installing a larger diameter pin on which the trigger pivots will improve speed. The trigger pivot hole is too large on the stock pin allowing wobble or sideways movement which reduces consistent tripping of the switch. You can buy hardened steel dowel pins from places like McMaster-Carr or you can find a place that sells drill bits in incrementally increasing sizes (letter drills, Number drills and fractional drills) and pick several bits that are several steps larger than the existing pin.

Cut off the drill end and use the smooth shanks as your pin. (takes a Dremel Tool with a cut off wheel to cut the hardened steel of drill bits)

Epoxy it in place in the right side of the shell so it doesn't get mixed up with the other pins when disassembling the marker for cleaning.

Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 24 November 2006 at 1:26am