flatline and a new bolt

iv got the flatline hooked up to my 98c and i was looking at getting a Pro-Team Hyper Star Bolt or a tippmann howitzer bolt and i was just wondering what you guys thought would work better

i noticed that 32 degrees had something like the hyper start boltbut they dont reccomend it if you have a flatline.  you guys think it would work fine with the flatline?

Edited by fightthecool - 20 December 2006 at 10:16am

alright well then anyone know what i should add to make my gun more accurate my setup is

a 98c
a flatline
a stock
a remote
everything else if pretty much stock parts

i want to make it as accurate as possible

and you might want to try a response trigger. they come in handy when you have to lay down fire.(question can you use a double or blade trigger with a response?).

dontrummer wrote: .(question can you use a double or blade trigger with a response?).

 

I wouldn't see why not since the custom pro with the built in e trigger has one.

Steps to a slightly more accurate marker:
1. If you have money to spend go for the Rufus Dawg Wiked Bolt.

2. If you have more money, then buy the DOP Proseal Aluminum Powertube (and it comes with a front bolt as well -- throw the front bolt in the trash). 

3. Then mod the Powertube to fit the Rufus Dawg Wiked bolt and you gun will be a bit more accurate.
_____________________________
Many will chose not to believe me and they can say what they want but some internals do help a little, it might cost more than it's worth to be honest.

I've tried the following:
1. The stock bolt on a stock powertube,
2. The stock bolt on the DOP Proseal powertube,
3. The Shocktech Superfly bolt with internal o-ring on a stock powertube,
4. The Shocktech Superfly bolt with internal o-ring on the DOP Proseal powertube,
5. The DOP Proseal Front bolt (Delrin version) on the stock Powertube.
6. The DOP Proseal Front bolt (Delrin version) on the DOP Proseal Powertube
7. The Wicked Bolt on the plastic powertube that comes with it.

I haven't modded my DOP Proseal to fit the Rufus Dawg front bolt yet because I want to try everything out again at a shooting range and set up a target. I will have the gun clamped down and then shoot at a new piece of paper for every different set up mentioned above and get the diameter circle of all of the different front bolt and powertube combinations on separate papers. Then measure the diameter of the shots and number of shots and see which one has a tighter grouping/ smaller diameter circle.
- Although I don't know how many shots to shoot at each target? 10 maybe?
- Should I use a couple different types of paint?  10 shots with RPS Premium and 10 Shots with All Stars or something.

I'm thinking of making a video of my shots and measurements to prove that some internals increase accuracy and that others don't. 
_____________________________
The DOP Proseal:

•  The reason I am thinking of modding the DOP Proseal Powertube is because I did notice the hammer could slide into the Proseal much easier with less resistance.  It was a perfect fit compared to the stock or other plastic powertubes, the oring filled the powertube fully but as I said with less resistance too.  (By the way I also have the Dark Horizons Titanium hammer) but it and the stock rear hammer both slide in the powertubes easier and fit more perfectly in the DOP Proseal powertube than the in the plastic powertubes.  Actually if you think about it, this could cause a slight increase in the BPS because less resistance = less time for the rear bolt to hit the valve piston inside the powertube and exit the powertube to return into place (latching the sear). The the difference in BPS would be ever so slight you wouldn't notice it.  --- Kind of like polishing your internals.  Some argue its a good thing others will say a waste of time.  It's all perception.  Do you want to try and get most accurate Tippmann or do you have better things to do? 
  

• Also with the DOP Proseal the velocity went up after putting it in - I tried having my velocity screw turned in the same amount of times in both stock and DOP powertube. So is it more efficient? - I don't know and I'm not going to try to argue or prove that.

• The DOP Powertube won't break, it is much stronger than the plastic powertube.
  

• With it I thought I noticed a slight bit of accuracy, but I might have been dreaming.  I guess my shooting range experiment will let me know.

Rufus Dawg Wiked Bolt

• Very simply, I could tell it was shooting straighter shots than my stock front bolt.  It didn't seam like much but I could hit a tiny fence post from 40-50ft away a lot more times than with the stock bolt.  I can't prove to you that the Rufus Dawg is better but other forumers here have experienced this increase in accuracy. (Like Bruce A. Frank). This can't be proved for sure until I videotape the added accuracy and I'm sure it is a slight  increase.  But Bruce said he turned a 11inch diameter splatter into a 7inch grouping at around 70-80 feet if I can remember properly. That is around 4 inches shaved off, that is pretty huge increase in accuracy if you ask me.

________________
I had mentioned about the Dark Horizons Titanium Rear Hammer.  So considering I tried that too and considering it is an internal I'll give you my thoughts on that too.  I think it is probably a waste of $70.  It might increase cycle rate a bit because it is much lighter than the Stock Rear hammer and therefore could cause less kick and well less kick keeps your gun more on target so less kick can equal more accuracy.  But for $70 CDN I think it was a waste.  You don't notice any of the benefits.  But once again if you want to try make your Tippmann the most accurate you can then you will obviously need to either try drilling your stock Rear Hammer or get a DH Titanium Hammer, because reduced kick is important for accuracy.  Although you could just get a stock, or if you are not into woods, then get ebolt.  I still think it's a lot of money for an "improvement" you don't notice.

But another thing you must remember for accuracy and that is very important is having a good paint to bore match and good quality paint (that isn't old and doesn't have dimples) helps too.

Also using HPA instead of CO2 will keep the Gun more consistent.

As was said by someone before me...  Using a regulator (Palmers) will also keep the gun more consistent and consistency can often be translated into accuracy (or at least how often your marker stays at an accuracy you want).

Hopefully you can take everything that I have told you and think about my opinions, my experiments and other peoples opinions and come to a conclusion of what you want to get and hopefully with those things you can be satisfied with your marker. I hope I've been able to help.


Edited by phil_stl - 21 December 2006 at 3:35pm

Snake6 wrote: Aftermarket Front bolts for Tippmann's are just marketing scams. You will see no performance increase with a aftermarket bolt. Don't waste your money.

 

I have to agree with Snake I don't think i've ever heard of any bolt ever really needing replaced.

So fightthecool what have you decided on?  I'm just a little curious, because I'd like to know... well... if my time typing what I did for you was an absolute waste of time or not.

 

Have you even looked at it?

(It would really suck if he was gone), lol.