Oils for marker?? |
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P-51 Mustang
Member Joined: 03 January 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: 03 January 2007 at 2:04am |
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I have a 98 Custom and have a rear cocking bolt, im not sure what its made of, the material is the same as the stock A5 bolt, feels like plastic. And I was wondering what is the best oil to put on it? will something like 3 in 1 work or should I go and get a more specific gun oil like Hoppes 9? Thanks!
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- Charles Bryant |
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Shadowminion
Gold Member Strike 1 - Language, 3/20 Joined: 06 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1625 |
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There have been many indepth discussions on this board on that topic . The oils you mentioned will work nicely , Hoppe's oil is the oil packaged with new Tippmann markers , so it would be the preferred lubricant , but as has been discovered , even WD-40 will work in a pinch (personally I dont recommend it tho,,) |
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SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
Widowmaker , under construction |
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Bruce A. Frank
Platinum Member KRL Reincarnated? Joined: 27 March 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3063 |
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Well, I still have (for 6 months now) "O" rings and Power Valve seals from a 98C soaking in WD-40. Original concern was that the solvent or some other component of the lubricant would damage these parts. Absolutely nothing has changed with these parts. Once the solvent evaporated off the WD-40 became very thick, certainly a lot thicker than Hoppe's gun oil, but I have found no interference with marker function. And, the thicker oil appears to reduce scuffing between the hammer and the shells. There also appears to be less grit scratch and scuff marks where the "O" ring of the forward bolt slides into the barrel. I am beginning to like WD-40 more and more. But, as was said, the light oil that ships with the marker these days is Hoppe's. Just about any oil will work well in Tippmanns. Some better than others, but none have caused any problems that I have been able to discover. |
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pattison
Member Joined: 30 August 2002 Location: Korea, North Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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you can throw a tippmann in a vat of sulphuric acid and the orings should outlast pretty much everything else.
nitrile rubber is very chemically resistant. http://www.mcmaster.com/param/html//About_Orings/orings_comp arison.htm Edited by pattison - 03 January 2007 at 10:13am |
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Eat The Brisket
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casper8x
Member Joined: 22 March 2006 Status: Offline Points: 59 |
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I use Craftsman pneumatic oil its cheap and works quite well. It is the same oil you use for pneumatic tools suchas impact wrenches, air hammers etc. It can be bought in small amounts like 3 oz. or quite large for entire shops and what not.
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Milled & Cut 98Custom
A.P.E. Board Polished Int. Palmer's Stab. Apex mounted on C.P. Classic Center-Fed Halo B |
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Shadowminion
Gold Member Strike 1 - Language, 3/20 Joined: 06 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1625 |
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Quite True Bruce (and Pattison too) , but I still prefer to use a lubricant whose chemical and physical properties will remain relatively stable over time ! (at least until the next maintenance performed) . Bruce and I have done some extensive research and empirical testing in times past (from differing sides of the debate) and probably discovered as much evidence to support the other's opinion as our own ! I dont agree with him as far as using WD-40 as a primary lubricant , but I can find no harm in using it either . |
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SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
Widowmaker , under construction |
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pattison
Member Joined: 30 August 2002 Location: Korea, North Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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i don't use wd40 ever, on anything.
not because it will damage things, but it it just not a good lubricant. Edited by pattison - 04 January 2007 at 5:28am |
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Eat The Brisket
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tallen702
Moderator Group Hipster before Hipster was cool... Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: Under Your Bed Status: Offline Points: 11851 |
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At the field I worked at, every day it was a squirt of WD-40 in ever ASA, screw in a tank, and fire it out with the barrel off. We've got some pro-lites out there with original valves, seals, bolt o-rings, etc. No problem with it. WD-40 btw, wasn't originally created as a lubricant for long term use, it was an alternative to some of the more dangerous "Liquid wrench" substances out there (many of which have since been banned by various health groups in the US and canadian govt's) It pretty much was designed to loosen up rusted or stuck parts to get them apart.
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<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>
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Shadowminion
Gold Member Strike 1 - Language, 3/20 Joined: 06 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1625 |
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Quite True Tallen , it is a penetrating oil and works well for that . The changing Viscosity of WD-40 does cause problems in high speed pneumatic equipment if used ocasionally and left that way as happens quite often in production environments . I've seen countless air cylinders internals torn to shreds by the "MISUSE" of that stuff . Over time the "oils" will turn to a gummy varnish like substance , and thats my biggest beef with using WD-40 , or recommending its use to others . The primary ingredient in WD-40 that makes it such a good penetrating oil , is a substance called "Stoddard solvent" , commonly known as Dry Cleaning Fluid . Pattison and Bruce are correct in that this substance has very little if any chemical degradation of the orings in Tippmann markers ,,,, but again , this is my preference and experience that most users of "Lubricants" will assume if a machine (be it a marker or an air cylinder)was lubricated several months ago and stored , it will not need to be lubricated again anytime soon . Hence my attempts to steer general users towards more stable forms of lubricants . Used the way you described , daily ,, I see no harm in its use ... I do use WD-40 on things such as door hinges , car hood mechanisms and doors , and as a cleaner for removing built up caked on oil deposits on machinery .
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SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
Widowmaker , under construction |
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ekeboo
Gold Member strike 1 5/1 Filter dodge Joined: 23 May 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1394 |
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TIPPY98ACT
Member Joined: 23 August 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 332 |
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First, does anyone know what the name WD-40 stands for? The answer is.... Water Displacement Attempt Number 40. Second, I.M.O just get a bottle of Hoppes #9. It's cheap and it works! That is why Tippmann uses it.
Edited by TIPPY98ACT - 05 January 2007 at 1:11am |
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tallen702
Moderator Group Hipster before Hipster was cool... Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: Under Your Bed Status: Offline Points: 11851 |
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Fun facts:
It was first used to protect electrical equipment from corrosion and to protect the outer covering of missiles during the cold-war (as it coats and keep oxidation from occurring). It will also completely dissolve cocaine. |
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<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>
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phil_stl
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I use Kermode Concepts 100% Synthetic Trouble Free Gun Oil.
It doesn't freeze or create slush and it's FDA approved! Yup that's right the FDA approved so if you're really thirsty and don't have water... It's got great reviews on pbreview as well. |
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clownshooter
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WD-40 was originally created to displace water hence the Stoddard Solvent. It's lubricating properties are a by-product and it is petroleum based.
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TIPPY98ACT
Member Joined: 23 August 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 332 |
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Hey clownshooter, do you think they know that petroleum based products over time will (eat) rubber and plastic?
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Shadowminion
Gold Member Strike 1 - Language, 3/20 Joined: 06 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1625 |
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TIPPYACT , do some research , like some of the rest of us have done , when you can find a compatibility chart put out by somebody reputable , Show it to us .. http://www.engineersedge.com/general_design_engineering.shtm l If not,, read these and get back to us when you understand it .... Edited by Shadowminion - 09 January 2007 at 5:15pm |
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SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
Widowmaker , under construction |
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pattison
Member Joined: 30 August 2002 Location: Korea, North Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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not everything you will hear some guy say on a message board can be accepted as science t98a. on paintball forums you would probably be safer assuming the opposite because people are full of elitist fanboy hype. i posted a link to the mcmaster oring chem resistance chart somewhere up there, you should check it out. |
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Eat The Brisket
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TIPPY98ACT
Member Joined: 23 August 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 332 |
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Hey Shadowminion, try this...http://www.trojancondoms.com/. Is that reputable enough for you? Do some research! I'm just kidding. I did educate myself on wd-40.com and found that it will NOT eat rubber. As far as the o-ring chart, thanks guys, but I already know some o-rings can be bought to withstand certain types environments and chemicals. All I'm trying to say is they give you a sample of Hoppes#9 for a reason!
Edited by TIPPY98ACT - 10 January 2007 at 3:00am |
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Bruce A. Frank
Platinum Member KRL Reincarnated? Joined: 27 March 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3063 |
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Well, I have been soaking all the "O" rings and seals from the 98C for almost 6 months now. WD-40, Hoppe's Gun Oil, Cutters Air tool oil, Remington Gun oil, wheel bearing grease and Quaker State motor oil. All are petroleum based (mineral oils) and nothing has changed. Heck, I have even soaked them in peanut oil and olive oil...no change. Sealing Paintball markers is not the job for which these "O" ring and seals were originally designed to do. They are designed to work in oils. Some "O" rings and seal materials are designed to work with different types of lubricant, but all the common "O" rings will last for tens of thousands of shots in a Tippmann. The same cannot be said for petrolium oils on latex...as if you'd ever have the opportunity to find out. Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 10 January 2007 at 2:05am |
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TIPPY98ACT
Member Joined: 23 August 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 332 |
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Hey Bruce and shadowminion, thanks for opening my eyes! Last night at work I went into the shop and found one of our copies of the McMaster-Carr catalog. I read the o-ring explanation section and found that most o-rings are not effected by oil based lubricants. Go figure? My question is what type of o-ring do you guys think Tippmann uses in their guns? I found that Buna-n is one of the most widely used o-rings for it's ability to resist petroleum-based oils, hydraulic fluid and non-aromatic solvents. It has high abrasion resistance. Also temperature range is from -65 to +275 degrees Fahrenheit. Sounds like something you would want in a paintball gun right? Then I read on and found Viton and Polyurethane, Neoprene, Kalrez, Teflon, Silicone and even Ecapsulated o-rings. Most have the features you would want to have and some that you don't! So what one do you think they put in the guns? I really want to know what you guys think? On a fun note, I asked ten different people on my shift (ages between 30 to 54) what they thought about petroleum based lubes on rubber and plastic and they all suggested it was a bad idea! Where do think this theory came from?
Edited by TIPPY98ACT - 11 January 2007 at 2:18am |
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