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e-bolt trigger switch |
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carl_the_sniper 
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 Topic: e-bolt trigger switchPosted: 20 March 2007 at 5:03pm |
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Well i was making some huge progress in my mod but... my ebolt trigger switch seems to be depressed... and I can't figure out how to get it to pop up again. and ideas? maybe you can reccomend replacement ones... anything better than the default Edited by carl_the_sniper - 20 March 2007 at 5:07pm |
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<just say no to unnecessarily sexualized sigs>
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tallen702
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Hipster before Hipster was cool... Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: Under Your Bed Status: Offline Points: 11857 |
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Posted: 20 March 2007 at 6:15pm |
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micro-switches are a dime-a-dozen at most places (like radio-shack, etc)
Make sure you use a return spring or return magnet to operate your trigger as not doing so will wear out the switch much more quickly. |
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<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>
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carl_the_sniper
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Posted: 20 March 2007 at 9:43pm |
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ok, thx ill go to circuit city tomorrow can you give me an example off the net of what i'm looking for? |
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<just say no to unnecessarily sexualized sigs>
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tallen702
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Posted: 21 March 2007 at 10:28am |
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http://www.farnsworthelectronics.com/microswitches.htm
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carl_the_sniper
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Posted: 21 March 2007 at 1:44pm |
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so i look on the net, and i see the switches with the rollers.. will this benefit me? (it's a custom mod and not going in a 98 if that helps)
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<just say no to unnecessarily sexualized sigs>
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tallen702
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Posted: 21 March 2007 at 4:20pm |
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well, if something is going to be pressing against the switch and sliding along it (which most triggers do) then yes, it would be beneficial.
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<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>
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carl_the_sniper
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Posted: 21 March 2007 at 5:40pm |
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thx for help, went with roller trigger took a bit of trigger filing but it's really sweet now four freggin dollars at circuit city... and I hate it when I know more about electronics than the person who works there... |
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tallen702
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Posted: 21 March 2007 at 8:20pm |
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<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>
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carl_the_sniper
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Posted: 21 March 2007 at 8:59pm |
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true... but he works in the small electronics area. i asked him of the benefits of the roller switch and he told me that "it rolls to activate the switch"... thanks captain obvious
oh and i also bought a 12v led to screw with... if i decided to put it on my gun, could i run it off the 9v also connecting to the ebolt? (it won't draw too much power from ebolt? |
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<just say no to unnecessarily sexualized sigs>
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tallen702
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Posted: 21 March 2007 at 11:09pm |
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Bruce is the guy to talk to for this. There should be a couple of ratings on the led's package. You need a 4 prong 2-pole switch (2 prongs per pole) so that you can run the LED on a separate circuit from the bolt so you don't screw with the voltage and amperage making it to the board.
Ahhhh! here we go, here's bruce's instructions, just click the link and scroll down until you see his nice little diagram. |
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Shadowminion
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Posted: 21 March 2007 at 11:23pm |
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I havent screwed around with LED's for about 20 years now , but they used to have a max current draw of about 21mA , application of Ohm's law (dont forget the forward Vdrop of the diode) will yield a resistor value to place in series with the LED when you go to wire it into the circuit . The resistor can be either on the anode or cathode of the device , it doesnt matter .
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SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
Widowmaker , under construction |
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Bruce A. Frank
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Posted: 23 March 2007 at 5:50am |
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Many of the LED's available come in a package with a chart on the back indicating which size resistor is necessary with the voltage source one intends to use. A double pole switch isn't strictly required, it makes it easier, as both the LED and the circuit board can take their power from the same pole. But, the LED must not be wired in-line (series) with the circuit board. Doing so will cut the voltage and amperage going to the board and will cause a malfunction of the board. |
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carl_the_sniper wrote: