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valve replacement

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bassist11 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 March 2007 at 12:36am
what is the best way to install a new valve in my 98? ever since i put in my wicked bolt and powertube, i have had problems with my valve and leaking. lately it has been out of the front of the barrel. tippmann is sending me a new valve and some valve lock bolts (since i lost mine) and i want to make sure i put everything together right this time since i'm probably done upgrading my 98. i'm going to red locktite the air line and valve lock bolts too once i get everything back together. how can i put this thing together and insure that i will have no leaks?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 March 2007 at 12:51am

Don't use the Red use the Blue Gel. Go read

Marker Trouble? Read Maintenance Archive 

About the 16th post.

Also use the Blue gel on the valve locking screws. You do want to be able to take these parts apart in the future.

BTW, the above link also shows you how to disassemble the power valve.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bassist11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 March 2007 at 7:47pm
so basically oil everything up good, put it together, and seal it with blue locktite gel? i want to make sure those valve lock bolts stay in place, is red bad for them or just hard to get out? cause i think that the bolts are too small to make them that hard to get out with red locktite. also, i just put some on my air line the other day going into the valve. it sealed up the leaks just fine so i'm wondering if its ok to put it on there too? the only blue gel i can find in this town is in a huge tube. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 March 2007 at 4:51pm

Originally posted by bassist11 bassist11 wrote:

so basically oil everything up good, put it together, and seal it with blue locktite gel? i want to make sure those valve lock bolts stay in place, is red bad for them or just hard to get out? cause i think that the bolts are too small to make them that hard to get out with red locktite. also, i just put some on my air line the other day going into the valve. it sealed up the leaks just fine so i'm wondering if its ok to put it on there too? the only blue gel i can find in this town is in a huge tube. 

Red LocTite is strong enough that you can strip the Allen wrench socket on those bolts...particularly is they have been used for a while or the Allen wrench is not sharp cornered.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bassist11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 March 2007 at 9:35pm
k well i'll use some blue gel if i can find some in this darn town.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tallen702 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 March 2007 at 10:51pm
Bassist, the red and blue loctite in the small tubes are both RED tubes, the lettering for the blue loctite is white with the word "Blue" in blue at the bottom, the red is the same, but with "red" in red at the bottom, it's kinda easy to miss on the rack at home depot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 April 2007 at 2:33am
Actually the the Blue gel that I pointed you to is Permatex brand and is available at most automotive parts stores (PEP Boys, NAPA, Kragan).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bassist11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 April 2007 at 1:37pm
yes Tallen, i'm fully capable of reading blue and red and even finding the tubes. i have some blue and red Permatex brand locktite and they are both in BLUE tubes. but no matter. the point is, i can find blue and red locktite, but the BLUE GEL locktite is a little harder to come by. the only blue GEL i've ever found in this town, is in a huge tube for lots of money. our town is kinda lame like that. i'll check NAPA. thanks Bruce. 

P.S.: we dont have a home depot, lowes, menards, or anything like that. just a walmart, kmart, and some locally owned hardware stores.


Edited by bassist11 - 01 April 2007 at 1:40pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tallen702 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 April 2007 at 5:26pm
ouch! Nothing in the do-it-yourself store category huh! that sucks, I'd die before living without a hardware store again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bassist11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2007 at 12:06am
ya we dont have a proshop or anything paintball related. we get our CO2 from walmart or from a local safety shop that rips you off (9 dollars for a 20 oz. fill of CO2). the same place charges 9 dollars for a 72/3000 fill of air. me and a friend are workin on gettin some scuba tanks to fill air off of.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bassist11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2007 at 9:23pm
i red locktited my air line into my valve before and today i took it off because i got my new valve and bolts. it was surprisingly easy to get the air line off. just a simple turn. is red locktite really that bad or was it that easy to take off because it wasnt on there that long (i put the red locktite on like two weeks ago)?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GBLoon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2007 at 11:01pm

Originally posted by bassist11 bassist11 wrote:

i red locktited my air line into my valve before and today i took it off because i got my new valve and bolts. it was surprisingly easy to get the air line off. just a simple turn. is red locktite really that bad or was it that easy to take off because it wasnt on there that long (i put the red locktite on like two weeks ago)?

If applied properly red locktite is extremely difficult to break loose.  It usually requires heating the part with a torch in automotive applications.  Don't use a torch on a paintball marker.  Use it only for securing parts you don't intend to remove again.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nagash1959 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2007 at 11:47pm

Do you absolutely have to use something like loctite on the power value screws? I took it out to polish the internals and when I reassembled it I didn't use anything, I just screwed it in. I haven't noticed an air leak or anything...

The stuff used on my gun was red come to think of it, and it broke off fairly easy.

98 Custom
Cyclone
Double E-Trigger
Polished Internals
Freak kit
X-chamber
CP Drop w/On/Off
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bassist11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2007 at 12:47am
well this is rather old and my gun is now functioning perfectly fine. you wouldnt have to put anything on your valve screws but make sure they dont shake off while your playing. every time you shoot they will come out a tiny bit until you come back after a game and you dont have a screw there anymore. its happened to me before so i would advise some blue gel locktite. now let this thread die.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2007 at 4:14pm

No leak develops from loose valve screws. Such things as velocity inconsistency, failure to cock, failure to fire are all symptoms that can develop when these screws loosen or are lost.

They need to be firmly tight and not back out. LocTite of some type will be helpful. Having to re-tighten periodically is the biggest reason these things strip the threads into the body of the power valve.



Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 04 May 2007 at 4:16pm
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