A5 WAS egrip eratic firing

I got a new A5 last may and ever since i got it, the WAS egrip has had eratic firing. It works fine in Single shot mode, but if i use, burst, turbo or full auto, the gun will keep firing if i just tap the trigger. The gun will keep firing even with my finger off the trigger until i put it back on the trigger and pull it back. Has any one ever had this problem? Can you lead me in the right direction to fix it? Please help. This is annoying and not all that safe.

Thanks
Dutch Redneck

Have you figured out a solution to your problem? I have the same problem and it seems like a lot of people do but I haven't been able to find a solution yet.

WAS boards have many problems with the e-grip. Either get the stock board or get an Ape board.

Sorry to say but I'm having the exact problem and I know for a fact that the setting mode is for A-5 so the polarity is fine... No solution found yet...

You would be right in changing back to your stock grip.I too have had my grip replaced and it's junk too. I just wonder what gives, does tippmann just not know whats wrong with these things? Are they refusing to admit there is an issue? I get so sick of hearing about "trigger bounce", I don't know about some of you guy's but that was the first thing I eliminated as an issue with mine,simply because it was an easy thing to fix and I'd rather fix it myself and play than send it out and wait! I've explored every theory I've read about and several I came up with myself and there is just NO fixing these things once the go bad. I've yet to be able to play a full game with this pile, and I have to tell ya I truly hate this thing, is tippmann gonna just let it go on this way?

I did some research on the A5 electronic kits since I was looking into buying one and I got the APE board based on everything I saw. If you check www.pbreview.com you can see a lot of reviews, most of which talk about how the APE board is much better. I installed mine last night and I messed around with it a little to get a feel for it. It's pretty simple and therefore easy to use but I noticed that the capacitor and solenoid didn't want to sit all the way in the grooves that were cut for them so I needed to dremel some plastic away to make the grip close. Otherwise, I would have had to crush the parts or leave the grip open a crack to get the thing closed which I was NOT going to do after paying $100+ to go electronic. Cutting a little plastic away solved my problem and now it's all together the way it was meant to be. Aside from that, the board works fine, though it seemed to have a little trouble maintaining full-auto at 25 bps (tested without air on the gun). However, it's unlikely that you'll want to shoot that fast for very long anyway. The solenoid seemed to have trouble tripping the sear at that speed so I put it down to 23 and changed the dwell and it worked fine. At stock settings, it worked flawlessly. Also, if you go to www.tippmannparts.com you can get just the board for about $58 and just solder your current solenoid onto it.

When the A5 is fired on the pull of the trigger the micro switch is actually opening, where as on a C98 with E-trigger the micro switch is being closed which is the more conventional way. The problem with the A5 and W.A.S. is there is very little tolerance to work with for setting the trigger. Just the vibration of the marker while shooting can set open/close the micro-switch causing a run away action . This is a mechanical problem ( adjusting the micro-switch) as the dwell even when set to a longer duration does not help to solve the problem.

Now as to why the Ape board does not seem to suffer this fate , My guess would be a micro-switch better suited to this environment.

A.P.E uses an 80gram switch just like the w.a.s board does(atleast mine was) . Thing is, as I get deeper into this I'm finding that w.a.s really over complicated a timer, a basic timer is really all we are dealing with here. I know w.a.s likes to brag about their programing being superior to all others,and sure the "30bps" tag probably sold a butt load of these boards,but you show me 1 gun,just 1 that would shoot even 25bps all day with NO problems (our game days last 10hrs or more at times) and I'll give you mine.I don't mean some gun burst firing on youtube.com or this gun that a friend of a friend has,I mean YOUR gun shooting ALL DAY @ 25+bps without ANY trouble. I think anybody who has really tried to use full auto all day has found that really anything over 15bps starts to become more of a hassle than a benefit.(beware these are my opinions and not facts) 

 

I know I strayed away from the subject at hand a bit but I have to tell you guys that I absolutely HATE the w.a.s board. I liked the ease of programing but thats about it,the ramping sucks as does the 3 shot version being the only full auto option you have. I bought my gun with the w.a.s board and even after 2 boards and countless hours trying to cure "trigger bounce" issues,I never got to play 1 game without that thing running away. That was until I just gave up and got an a.p.e board, now I play and spray at will! It's finally nice to be able to play without worrying about much of anything other than what stategy we'll use.

 

So again, sorry for such a long strayed post, but I'm just telling you guys that have good luck with your w.a.s boards in your A-5's, consider yourselves lucky. For the rest of you, get an a.p.e board and quit beating your head against the wall and go play!!!!

Allright, I think I'm having the same problem:

• When I install the e-grip (WAS board) on my gun and I press the fire button, the gun keeps shooting (as if it's running low on CO2) and the only way to stop it is to cock the gun.
  
• Nothing comes out the barrel, and I have plenty of paint in the feeder.

• With the stock trigger the gun performs just fine.

So the fix is to reverse the polarity????

Note: I'm not sure if the gun works on semi-auto, as I was in the field ones and actually got it to work for a little bit of time, so I believe it was on semi-auto... once I get back home from work today, I will test the semi-auto.



Edited by kgantchev - 24 July 2007 at 12:07pm

pitbull1100xx wrote: Yours actually sounds like you need to remove the metal clip and spring on your trigger which won't work with any e-grip because it won't let the sear return to catch the bolt.

Here is my current trigger situation:
1. No metal clip behind the trigger (also called the return slide in the product manual).
2. I'm using the sear with the oval hole, and that sear has a spring underneath it.
3. Should I also remove the spring underneath the sear or the spring underneath the trigger??
(note, that there is a spring hidden "in" the return slide which we refer to as a clip, but I'm not using the trigger with the return slide)

Although I have both triggers, the one with the metal clip and one without the clip.

There are two types of sears, a sear with an oval hole, and a sear with a round hole.  I have tried both, but a tech from Tippmann told me to use the one with the oval hole.

The sear with a round hole is slightly larger and more protruded on top.  But even with that trigger assembly the gun won't stay cocked unless I slam the bolt back, even that doesn't guarantee it.

I'm starting to thing that the CAR stock installed on my gun might have something to do with this, but when I use the original grip (not the WAS e-grip) the gun cocks and shoots just fine.  I'll try the original end cap.


Edited by kgantchev - 25 July 2007 at 3:56pm