JCS power tube??

I had a walk on day on sunday, and I've never had so many problems with my gun before.

firstly it would fire once, and would just re-cock itself... i found out i put too much of that new TechT lube stuff, and there was too much friction... so i wiped it all out, and just put regular gold cup lube.

then i was having serious faster rate firing problems...  i took the gun apart and found out that the power tube i got from JCS (the red hot power tube), the hole that powers the cyclone feeder (from the power tube) doesn't match to the holes (neither the top one or the bottom one) of the gun, so the air wasn't getting directly into the cyclone feed which consequently wasn't feeding the paint balls to the gun. so i was firing air after a couple of shots.  SO i had to drill a hole, directly infront of the cyclone feeder air hole... and then it worked perfectly...

I ordered 2 seperate power tubes, the rufus top dawg, and the mad dog designz power tube, hoping one of them will work and keep my shots consistent. 

any suggestions otherwise?

Stock power tube, FTW.

<lets watch the language even in acynoms>

Edited by Evil Elvis - 21 February 2008 at 4:35pm

yea, the stock one i had cracked, and decided to try something a little more rigid. 

anyway i'll let u know how the new ones work out

Its plastic, thats how you get it cracked. You dont hit it with a hammer or anything. It just happens just like the ratchet and stuff that wears out. Lucky you, but some people havent been so lucky and thats why they made aftermarket parts to be replaced.

well, again - lucky you. 

you and I must play differently, AND things happens, so i said i'd try a metallic one....  metal deals better with high air pressure than plastic does...

too bad JCS decided to drill a hole in the wrong area!!!

 

anywa now that i know what the problem is, and i'm also upgrading to a 1'8 air system (from power tube to cyclone feed), i'll be expecting some better results!

Do not filter dodge. Warning PM sent.

Edited by Reb Cpl - 20 February 2008 at 7:29am

kungura wrote: well, again - lucky you.  you and I must play differently, . . . Very differently, I can't imagine doing anything during a game that would break the power tube inside the marker.  However, now that I think about it, I have seen a power tube broken.  It was during modifications by a doofus who didn't know what he was doing. AND <stuff> happens, so i said i'd try a metallic one....  metal deals better with high air pressure than plastic does... Not really relevant as the plastic power tube is surrounded by metal which prevents expansion unless someone is airing up the power tube when it is removed from the marker.

Now back on subject. Why do you want to put 1/8" lines on the way to the cyclone? Remember the cyclone works on blowback, air exiting the cyclone so you dont really need that much air to make it spin. Also if you are and you want to make it a little faster buy the QEPH at palmers pursuit shop. It will help exhaust that air which is exiting a lot faster and of course make the cyclone faster. If thats what you are looking for. Also let me know exactly what you want because this is not the best option either, i can give you better ones ;-)

kungura wrote: Mack, thank you for disecting my post and for your input . . .

You're welcome. 


Edited by Mack - 21 February 2008 at 10:31am

Papiriqui629 wrote: Research people, and you will see that most of the upgrades are not worthless . . .

Really, since we already know that Tippmanns work fine with the stock power tube, how about you find us something that shows the after-market ones provide some advantage.  After all, it is just a piece of material that the valve sets in.  It seems like one would be pretty similar to another with the possible exception that the stock one has the holes in the right place.

Papiriqui629 wrote: When i said search i meant read a little more, there has to be a reason for people replacing cracked power tubes. Ohh i guess they decided to waste the money, just as they decided that the metal ratchet was a waste of money after replacing it 20 times. You amaze me Mack, very smart of you.

Now you've got me confused.  I've never said that plastic is superior to metal.  Nor have I insisted that a broken power tube should be retained/used.  What I said, based on the initial post, was there is no performance related reason for replacing a stock Tippmann power tube. If I managed to somehow break my power tube, I would possibly consider a metal one.  (Although this is now less likely based on the problems experienced by the initial poster.)

On an unrelated note, since you mentioned the metal ratchets; I've had amazing luck with them as well.  My A5 is serial number 00037? (I think the last number is a 2, but it's hard to read) and I've never had a ratchet problem either.  I used the stock one until Tippmann made the free replacement plastic ones available, then I got one of them.  I know lots of folks who've had bad luck with the ratchets, but I've beat the heck out of that A5 and it's always worked.