Velocity Adjustment

Ok, so I have an old 98 that I filled in the front VA and put an RVA on. The FVA screw was still in, just unscrewed as far out as possible without interfering with the inside of the receiver. When I tried to chrono it, even with the RVA adjusted all the way in, I could not get it down below 320 or so which I know is considered unsafe. It was mentioned by another member (Mack) about getting a lighter spring. I also figured I could just take the marker apart, and screw the screw back in and work with the RVA until I got it low enough, or lower where I would be able to still use the RVA if temps rose and I needed fine tuning. 

Anyways, here is my question if anyone cares. Going with the theory that the FVA lowers the FPS by creating turbulence with the air in the valve, would a more consistent shot be attained by removing the FVA screw all together and using a lighter spring as was suggested, or would there be any negligible advantages? Basically, would you get a more accurate shot without the turbulence created? Or does the turbulence help by adding spin? OOOrr, does the turbulence make the marker less effective, as you are having to increase VA to push the ball harder to overcome the turbulence?

Mack wrote: oldpbnoob wrote: The main point is in regards to if there is any significant accuracy or efficiency gain from using a spring kit with no FVA and an RVA or just adjusting the FVA in and using the RVA to fine tune. I doubt accuracy would be affected either way. Efficiency is a different question.  Personally, I would remove the FVA entirely, fill up the hole completely and smooth the inside if it to match the inside of the body shell.  Then I would use an RVA for velocity adjustment.  Removing the FVA screw entirely prevents the unlikely possibility that the screw might move due to vibrations related to firing and cause problems.  Filling in the hole prevents any possible loss of efficiency from possible air-flow disruption caused by the unneeded "nook" in the valve.  The RVA would allow you to adjust the valve to use just as much propellant as needed for your desired results.

The hole is already filled in on the receiver, but I cannot get the FPS down with the FVA screw as far out as possible and the RVA out as far as possible. If I take the screw out entirely, I will definitely have to get a softer spring or cut what I have. If there is no neglible difference, wouldn't it be just as easy to screw the screw in, loctite it and use the RVA for fine tuning? I have never cut springs before and don't have a chrono at home to tinker with.

I just compared the depth of the stock end cap hole with the RVA turned all the way in and they are really close. I am using a pretty primitive "stick a toothpick in the hole and mark" method, but they are very close. The RVA is part of a RAP4 wire stock. It's the marker that I  have in the gallery with the pistol mag on the top.

I guess truly my next move needs to be to buy my cheap self a chrono if I am going to continue futzing around with my markers.

Regarding the springs, are there specific ones or would these (most likely) work: http://www.paintball-discounters.com/get_item_020977a.htm ? I  do have an extra spring around here, but I guess cutting it would be pointless without having a chrono to tell if the FPS is coming down.