Pro/Carbine rebuilds

ahh i think tippmannparts.com does

what if the bolt catch point is rounded, do i need to just go ahead and get a new bolt, or is there a way to modify it to catch stronger?

finally came in?  thats awesome.  cleaning up my pro/carb was actually one of the most enjoyable cleanups i have had.  i finally finshed everything last night including polishing up the trigger and cleaning up my hammer.  For a lighter trigger pull check out the maddmann springs.  i put one on mine and it made the trigger pull MUCH MUCH lighter.  good luck with it though.  tippmannparts.com should have all you need.  i was lucky enough that the proshop near me is a tippmann wholesaler as well and has all of the parts available.  

mine looks just like that too.  it doesnt touch when its like that but it trips the sear when the gun is cocked.

I thought the same thing at first so no worries.

t_hop wrote: okay, so i tore one open earlier and realized that the trigger and sear were all messed up. take a look, It looks like they aren't quite reaching each other, and i've never had one of these to know what's wrong, can i get a diagnostic?...

thejudge wrote: mine looks just like that too.  it doesnt touch when its like that but it trips the sear when the gun is cocked.

thejudge is correct:

The carbines lack the upper rear pin of the 98s which holds the sear in firing position.  The hammer pushes it back down into the proper position when the marker is put together.  Essentially, the sear rides the bottom of the hammer throughout the cycle of operation.

Yep the judge is correct all your trigger parts look correct, that is how they accomplish a semi auto disconnect,
(interesting place for a full auto mod) , the gas line adapter screws into the threaded hole in receiver . The hole in the gas valve has to line up just right with the o-ring installed in between,  it is a little tricky. I am rebuilding 6 of these as well - from a rental fleet , they are awesome workhorses. It looks like you can drill a hole in the plastic fore grip right where the latch screw is and turn the screw around to eliminate the sliding function and subsequent play and miss-alignment of the feed port and elbow (what was the sliding function for,stopping  accidental discharge before the use of a barrel plug?). I have found that hot water, nylon brush, and easy off removes old paint goo really well. Just leave the easy off on for any time as it will etch the aluminum and plastic. When you take the fore grip shroud apart it will be probably loaded will old paint.

What barrels do you plan to use? I heard that pc's can super accurate with the right tube