SL68 II Gen1 Too Slow

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   I recently got an old SL68 II.  I replaced all the o-rings and got it to stop leaking, but cannot get it to shoot over 210 fps.  I even stuck an extra valve spring in with the bolt spring to try to bolster the hammer action against the valve, but it had very little effect.  My only guess now is that my valve spring is too stiff?
I was going to snip it and see where that got me, but wanted to see if anyone else had any ideas.  Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance!

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firdawsi Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 07 June 2010 Status: Offline Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote firdawsi Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: SL68 II Gen1 Too Slow Posted: 07 June 2010 at 2:29pm
	I recently got an old SL68 II. I replaced all the o-rings and got it to stop leaking, but cannot get it to shoot over 210 fps. I even stuck an extra valve spring in with the bolt spring to try to bolster the hammer action against the valve, but it had very little effect. My only guess now is that my valve spring is too stiff? I was going to snip it and see where that got me, but wanted to see if anyone else had any ideas. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Mack Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Has no impulse! control Joined: 13 January 2004 Location: 2nd Circle Status: Offline Points: 9906	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mack Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 June 2010 at 1:02am
	If you are using compressed air, switch to CO2. I have never seen a stock SL 68 that worked well on compressed air. If this is not the issue, an extra spring will probably not help, what you need is a stronger/longer main spring. Alternatively you could experiment with trimming the valve spring but this isn't something I recommend. The cup seal and spring have been "broken in" together and there is no telling what you might mess up by tinkering with the valve.


firdawsi Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 07 June 2010 Status: Offline Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote firdawsi Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 June 2010 at 9:33am
	I am indeed running compressed air. I hear what you are saying, but I would like to stick to HPA if possible, since I like to fill off my scuba. I do have extra cup seal/valve spring, so maybe I'll use those to experiment with. Thanks very much for the advice.

Mack Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Has no impulse! control Joined: 13 January 2004 Location: 2nd Circle Status: Offline Points: 9906	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mack Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 June 2010 at 1:00pm
	My experience has been that most Tippmanns prefer CO2; the older ones even more so than the newer ones. I tried running my SL 68 II off of compressed air as well and after dealing with low velocity issues, valve leaks, various spring combinations and having to find new o-rings for the valve body* I finally said "heck** with it" and went back to CO2. With the amount of shots per tank compared to the rate of fire of the marker having a couple of full 12 oz tanks on hand is more than sufficient for a day of play. (A single 9 oz. probably would be as well, but I like having a spare tank and 9 oz. tanks are too prone to blowing burst disks during the summers up here.) Size #7 or #8 from ACE Hardware (I don't remember which for sure, it's been a while) work perfectly. *"Heck" being the nice version.


BVB Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 02 February 2010 Status: Offline Points: 20	Post Options Post Reply Quote BVB Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 June 2010 at 4:59pm
	We run our SL-68 II (Gen. 2) on HPA. All comes down to getting the right paint. Try to get your hand on some big paint that don't give you (partial) rollouts. If not possible and paint is on the small side, use a tapedetent to prevent rollouts ! We sometimes even had to turn the velocity screw in to keep it under 300 fps. The paint wasn't even that big, because we needed to put a single tape detent into the barrel ! You might also want to have a look into this : http://tippmann.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=184898

firdawsi Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 07 June 2010 Status: Offline Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote firdawsi Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 June 2010 at 10:36am
	Thanks for the tape detent advice, I will give that a whirl. That sounds very promising to me...I'll let you know what I find. I did have some luck with trimming the valve spring, managed to get it into the 240s (versus 210). Tape detent sounds much more efficient.