98 custom sniping project suggestions

First:  there is no sniping in paintball, read some of the threads about that one.
Second: A good barrel, if you want cheap and accurate, try J&J, lapco, or a CP barrel.
Third: HPA.

AAAUUUGGGGHHHHH!  WHAT PART OF "NO SNIPERS" DID YOU NOT UNDERSTAND!!!!!!!

Sorry about the above, I just couldn't resist. 

On a serious note, I have quite a bit of experience tinkering with a Q-Loader and have to say they would not be my first choice for your usage.  Reasons/explanations below:

• My experience was the necessary number of pre-winds to reliably feed at higher rates of fire on a 98 delivered the balls with sufficient force to cause double-feeding on a regular basis.
• This specific problem may not be an issue for your usage since it sounds like you would be using controlled semi-auto fire, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
• What I considered the biggest issue with the Q-Loader is the inability to "top-off" a pod on the field.
  
•  It means you have to look at the number of shots you have left in a pod and decide if it's enough for your next engagement or if you want to swap out pods now.
• It also means there is the potential in long games to end up with 4 or 5 pods with 10-30 rounds in each one which really sucks when you get into a heavy exchange of fire.
• Another issue is the storage size/space.  Each Q-Pod holds 100 rounds but takes up more space than the 165 round Dye Locklid pods.  (Which I find annoying.)
• Finally, if you get into a serious paint exchange and the pod runs out you might be tempted to use up the paint in the feed tube between the pod and the marker rather than reloading.  (In fact, the situation might be such that you have no choice but to do so; think of it as the kind of situation where you would be shooting while dumping paint into a normal hopper.)
  
• You can do this, but the chances are when you attach the new pod the paint will go slamming into the feed tube and end up in a gooey smashed mess that will take quite some time to clean.  (Sufficient time and disassembly that it is just best to have an alternate marker.

Don't get me wrong, I like the Q-Loader.  (I like cool gadgets in general to be honest.)  However, I just haven't found a good use for it yet.  Ran it on my Phantom for a while but it threw the balance off.  I have considered running it on a heavier framed pump but haven't tested that idea yet.  It also worked quite well on my (closed bolt) Autococker as the firing cycle was less prone to double-feeds because of the way it worked.

For your usage I think you should consider a smaller hopper.*  Since your firing controlled semi-auto you could probably get away with using one of the 45-50 round hoppers that you see people use on pumps a lot.  For more reliable feeding you could consider a Cyclone feed with a tac cap.

Whatever you do, you should post a pic in the marker gallery when you're done.

*The Winchester hoppers are my current favorites for pumps.  The lid is crap but I just toss them and replace them with a Java pod lid assembly held in place with duct tape.

Edited Addition:  If you really want to run the Q-Loader you could look into some of the detent modifications that are available on the net.  (I've seen tutorials for putting Shocker detents and double standard detents in model 98s and there are probably others as well.)


Edited by Mack - 16 June 2010 at 7:47pm

SmakDaddy wrote: 1) apply a felt  pad with a hole cut in the middle on the face of the valve with the pin stem sticking thru the hole. The pad will stick on the clean valve face just fine. This tends to absorb impact from the rear bolt and thus result in less propellant release due to reduced contact pressure from the rear bolt on the valve stem.  It can result in lower velocities due to this.  However, this is dependent upon the barrel/paint being used.  For instance a shorter barrel with a good fit to the paint being used is more efficient than a longer barrel with a poor match to the paint being used.  In this case, the felt pad could actually increase efficiency and provide a sound deadening effect by reducing the amount of wasted propellant pressure that exits the muzzle after the paintball is expelled., 2) Replace your hammer with a TechT Zero Kick Hammer to reduce the shooting vibration to help increase your accuracy. Not a fan of internal after-market parts for Tippmanns, but this is one of the few such parts I have yet to hear bad things about. 3) Add a Rocket Cock II or BT Sealed Bolt System to cover the hole with the cocking handle to help quieten the hammer noise I run a rocket cock on one of my markers and do not think it really adds anything in the way of quiet to the operation.  The sound just escapes out the hole in the front with the exhaust gasses. ) Isolate your air tank from your gun by putting flat rubber washers between the grip and the ASA. Size 3/16 X 1/2 X 1/16 (from Lowes or ACE) will fit nicely over the screws as you reaassemble things. This will help in damping the ring of the tank.  Never heard of this before . . . I will have to experiment with it.  It makes good sense in theory. 5) Also, if you have an older 98 Custom and the sear hooks on the sear and loops on a pin then you can dampen this spring noise by adding heat shrink tubing around the spring. This is not applicable to the newer sear spring set up. Don't recommend doing this due to the potential to interfere with spring operation.  Also, I really can't see this tiny spring contributing to noise that much. 6) Do the 'trigger spring mod' that involves your replacing the spring in front of your trigger with one from a ball point pen. It contributes to your trigger being easier to pull when firing. Mixed reviews on this due to the lack of quality control/standardization associated with pen springs.  Additionally, if someone is having difficulty pulling their trigger they really need to work out. 7) Buy a Lapco Barrel Adapter that converts your A5 barrel threads to 98 threads if you are satisfied with the A5 system you are using. While adapters are nice, they tend to be fairly large bore so they work in most situations.  If used with an small bore barrel (such as a Micro-Shot) this can lead to a ridge between barrel and adapter that is not kind to more fragile/older paint. 8) I highly recommend using some type of bore sizing for increased accuracy such as the TechT IFit Kit or the Python Kit or some sort of kit from J&J, Lapco, CP . I use a Smart Parts Freak back with a Stiffi Tip giving me bore sizing and a quiet accurate barrel. Barrel kits are definitely more accurate than regular single piece barrels.  However, it is my opinion that for most people the additional accuracy is not sufficient to offset the cost of the kit.  (I.e. it might be worth it for the tournament player who needs every edge to be "in the money" but it probably isn't for the recreational woods player.) Anything in the 12 to 14 in range should be adequate. Good advice, with one caveat:  One of the few advantages to longer barrels is that they use up excess propellant over the additional length thus resulting is less wasted pressure being discharged after the ball exits the barrel.  Hence they tend to be quieter. I have been quite satisfied with the range of this barrel combo as well. Many will suggest the APEX  to extend range but there is some loss of accuracy and this barrel is not quiet at all. But it remains a personal choice for sure.  Ported Carbon Fiber barrels (Stiffi, DeadlyWind, DeathStix) seem to have the edge being both quiet and accurate. True, however longer J&Js and the Armson Stealth series have the potential for being very quiet as well. 9) Use a quality lubricant like Pure Lube or the TechT Gun Drops.  I usually shoot a little TriFlow thru my valve as well. Hoppes work fine and is recommended by Tippmann. 10) Use quality paintballs !! This is the single biggest factor in accuracy--good paint. This will contribute significantly to your accuracy and range from your smooth shooting and quietened Custom 98. Good paint will not increase range, but it will increase consistency.  "Consistency" being the capability of the marker to put the paint in generally the same area every time and a major factor in accuracy.  Accuracy actually being a factor of the shooter as opposed to the marker. These are the modifications I use in my older Custom 98. Many of them are in my A5s as well.  Individually, many of these suggested mods will not bring about a noticeable effect but it is the summation of them  that does the job. I really enjoy my markers and have enjoyed these mods for several years.  Good luck with your 98 !!

A final note on Tippmanns.  The nature of the valve and velocity adjuster on stock Tippmanns means that they are not the quietest markers around.  One way to make them quieter is to add a longer barrel as I mentioned above.  However, a better way to soak up the sound from the excess propellant that is released is through the use of a rear velocity adjuster.  The RVA, unlike the stock velocity adjuster, changes the pressure on the main spring, thus regulating the amount of propellant released with each shot.  Less excess propellant coming out behind the ball equates to quieter shots.  Since the marker will apparently not have any air-operated accessories (i.e. response trigger or cyclone feed) the major problems that come with controlling amount of propellant released (i.e. air starvation of these accessories) can be avoided.


Edited by Mack - 17 June 2010 at 9:53am

Here's some of the stuff that I use and enjoy using on my 98C:
Opsgear stuff - 18" barrel, barrel shroud, Dishka muzzle brake, sight riser, and a folding G36 stock.
Other stuff - red dot sight and/or 2-7 NCstar scope

Opsgear is all about quality. Most of their products is made from aircraft aluminum so is light and is made generally for milsim looks. i have a(n) (unfortunately discontinued) Opsgear 18" Interceptor barrel. Yes, it is long, but the distance(ish) and accuracy i get from it are great. The only reason the accuracy of this barrel could be ruined could be scratched on the inside, dirt or the odd barrel break although most of the time, this barrel will shoot wonderfully even with a barrel break. It shoots through them well, but give it a quick clean if you can anyway. Opsgear does NOT make porting on their barrels. I like this because Opsgear is most likely one of the few companies that do not put porting on their barrels. I have read that Opsgear makes great quality stuff and so far that is still very true.

My understanding of the porting is generally what it was made to do. Make the gun quieter. But to do this the barrel must let go of some gas. Letting go of gas relieves pressure on the ball. Less pressure means slower speeds and so less distance, accuracy and chance of ball breakage. Of course, where the porting is plays a big part on my theory. Opsgear doesn't have porting so the only places the gas can come out of the barrel are through the feed neck and through the front of the gun. More pressure, faster speeds, more accuracy and distance, which is what everybody wants. I am not a physicist, so this is just a theory.

Barrel shrouds may look nice, but they do add weight. I use mine to hold onto instead of the regular front grip on the 98C. I don't know why, but i don't use the front grip, but i don't really want to buy a mag to replace it. just more weight. (I'll probably make one at some point after the summer ends...) Anyway back on track.

I have found that the integrated front and back sights on the 98C and A-5 are completely useless. They work to a degree, but at a distance then you might as well waste too much paint for maybe 3 hits and a break. So a red-dot sight I stick with for smaller fields. For larger fields I like to use my NCstar scope . Both have proven useful and have heightened my ability to aim. I would recommend either, but make sure you know what you're going to use it for.

My muzzle brake is mainly for speedball use. Sometimes I will use it in woodsball because its funny to hear people after the game when they say, "Damn that thing is loud..." or teammates not far ahead of you, "My ears are ringing." It's just something--- I should mention that the thing makes the sound from the gun LOUDER... I like it because sometimes things don't sound exciting when everythings quiet. Imagine:(tink, tink, tink, tink, jujujujujujujujujujujujujuujuju, tink tink BAMBAMBAMBAMBAMBAMBAMBAMBAM) Hahaha... goood times... goooooood times....

Anyway, if you're going to be an actual sniper in paintball then stay away from it, but definately go for the barrels. They rock!

For stocks: find something that folds. That way you can fold it away in tight corners or for speedball. It's also good for packing away in your bag. But if you buy a stock, then buy a sight riser if you're going to use a sight.

On a side note, notice how all my recommendations on products are different from other peoples'. Personally, I stay away from recommendations because all I'm going to get is "Ego this, barrel kit that. Snipers don't exist and speedball or nothing." I am a sniper. I'm good and always getting better. Non-believers only say such because of "military definitions" and them being on the opposite team as a sniper. Besides, the term sniper is a general term meaning someone who sneaks and becomes one with the environment (hence the ghillie suits) and uses as few shots as possible to eliminate targets at any distance as well as using all he/she can to his advantage. Sniping in paintball IS possible and plus it's just a game. Don't ruin peoples' fun by "flaming" or ridiculing someone's gamestyle by saying there's no such thing. To me the whole yes or no paintball sniper existance argument is just childish and silly. Saying paintball sniping doesn't exist is like sayingbarrel kits are $200 pieces of crap and don't work for anything worth more than a <spyder>. Can't you all just get along and shut up about the argument? Just because someone doesn't like something doesn't mean it doesn't exist. (Yes I know that goes for me too with this argument)

Sorry for that last rant there but I'm getting sick and tired of people ridiculing a playstyle that they aren't fond of. I'm not all that fond of speedball but I don't put it down and say it ruined paintball(which it didn't) and even then I still play it occasionally. I just want that stupid argument to stop. (And yes by saying all that started a sniper flame war. I see the irony)


Edited by Reb Cpl - 21 June 2010 at 9:35pm

Shenk....please refrain from dodging our language filter in the future.