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FFFFFamily Pictars! |
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oldpbnoob 
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Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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 Topic: FFFFFamily Pictars!Posted: 03 September 2010 at 11:37am |
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So I'm a bit slow and bored today (take the easy shot), so I figured I would update my collection pics. That ,and I'm trying to document some stuff for insurance purposes. My collection has grown and shrunk over the past year. It leans pretty heavily towards AGD products these days, but I did just pick up an inexpensive A5 a month or so ago to tinker around with. Questions/comments always accepted.Here the whole famdamily.. mostly:
 Individuals:
Up first is the Emag that I waited nearly 6 months to get back from annodizing. The rail and body were already done by the previous owner, but I had the lowers done in dust gray to match the base. For anyone who cares, it has Xmod 1.8, Tunablade trigger and Custom ULE milled lowers.
 Latest acquisition. Has a really nice, almost scratch free purple splash kit and a fairly rare vert feed MiniMag body. Still trying to get it dialed in to RT consistently.
 Got this one basically by trading a bunch of parts left over from markers that I bought and pillaged for specific items or parted out. I have yet to play with it. Was trying to go with an old school feel, but with some modern upgrades, kind of like a RestoCustom. That and I think it's purty:
 I initially called this one Noisy Cricket because it's small and really shiny when all polished up. While I was initially happy with the results, I have decided to go in a little different direction with this one and planning on swapping out the body with a Nicke plated ULE, sleeper Pnueing it, and finding a lighter alternative to the front grip. I've already begun to canibalize it a little for the feedneck adapter and on/off:
 One of the few remaining Tippy's in my arsenal. Slightly modded SL68II. Filled in grip grooves, reshaped grip, Picatinny rail added, polished barrel etc. Planning on turning this into a UBER SNIPER RIFLE by modding the breach to be able to hand load First Strike rounds. Simply haven't had the time or energy.
 This is my current Primary marker. It has an Xvalve with ULT, RPG trigger, shortened body, custom made wood grips and a zero rise feedneck. It's nicked/scratched, has exposed raw aluminum, but most likely will stay that way,at least for the foreseeable future as I don't want it too pretty to get dirty.
 Here is the one that started my current case of Magitis. The only thing original to this marker as I bought it is the sear, pin and field strip screw. Everything else has been swapped out at some point in time. It has a shortened feedneck, Retrovalve, Intelliframe, Hogue style grips, milled rail and J&J barrel courtesy of Stormynight. I run it with the adjustable reg'd tank shown with the purple splash mag above. Sad part is, I actually rarely play with this marker as the one above is considerably lighter and easier to tote around all day. Thought about selling it a few times, but can't bring myself to do it.
 I didn't post an individual picture of the A5. I just recently bought it, and it's still a work in progress. Future plans include some T-tech upgrades. Looking to make it into more of a "speedwoodsbally' type of marker. About the only upgrades it has is an E-grip and bottom line adapter so far.
I also didn't post a pic of the Micromag. It's pretty plain Jane. Still trying to figure out which direction to go with it.
Thanks for looking.
Edited by oldpbnoob - 03 September 2010 at 11:44am |
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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Mack
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Has no impulse! control Joined: 13 January 2004 Location: 2nd Circle Status: Offline Points: 9906 |
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 11:45am |
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You're right; the blue one is "purty." I also like the Noisy Cricket just as it is. (Actually, I like it a lot, which is odd, since I'm not normally a shiny marker fan.)
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oldpbnoob
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Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 11:54am |
I really liked the NC, but honestly, its a beast, and the modded feedneck is a bit wonky. If I try to use a VL Revvy, it misfeeds a lot when the hopper gets even remotely low and the marker is tilted up for any distance. You can't adjust the angle of the hopper and I keep having to drop the front down to get it to load properly. If I use a Halo, the detents in the twistlock barrel just aren't strong enough and I get double feeding. Even with the changes, It will look pretty similiar as it does now, just a slightly different body and I should be able to suprise a few people with 15 bps from the pnue mod. Basically, it turns it into a pnuematic trigger instead of a purely mechanical one. Should be fun.
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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Mack
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Has no impulse! control Joined: 13 January 2004 Location: 2nd Circle Status: Offline Points: 9906 |
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 12:10pm |
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Never messed with mags . . . what type of detent system do they use?
I can't tell from the picture, what exactly are the mods to the feed system? If you can get access to a Ricochet you should try one of those on it. I' had good results with one on a 98 (w/RT) that experienced feed issues with an x-boarded revy. |
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oldpbnoob
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Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 12:27pm |
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Old mags use a wierd detent system. Basically, a channel is cut into tthe barrel and a wire "nubbin" sticks through and holds the balls back. They work great for gravity feed or even just agitated hoppers, but for forcefed hoppers, they just aren't strong enough sometimes. On a stock mag body, the feedneck comes out of the body as a straight tube at 45 degrees, and an elbow is used. The mod I had done cuts that tube down close to the body and has another short peice of tubing welded to the it to make a bend in the feedtube so that the end result is a vert feedneck. You then use a spyder 1" or 7/8" clamping feedneck. With the stock feedneck, you can tilt the hopper forward or backwards utilizing the 45" elbow. With the vert feed mod, you don't have this option. The hopper is fixed and alway totally vertical. So if you are arcing the marker back a bit to "longball', on a revvy or gravity feed, the balls pool in the back of the hopper and you misfire. |
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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Mack
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 1:21pm |
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Disregard the idea of using a Ricochet then. I don't think it would help. Although, since they are activated by a physical switch each time a ball passes through as opposed to waiting for a gap to appear like the electronic eye activated hoppers, they might keep the stack in the feed neck closer together. This might actually help, but I just don't know for sure.
Do you have the option of doing a power feed type modification? Edited by Mack - 03 September 2010 at 1:22pm |
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oldpbnoob
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Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 1:41pm |
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Yeah, not really sure on the Ricochet or not. Problem is, I need a force fed hopper without the force. The detent just isnt strong enough to fight it. Not really sure what you mean by power feed mod. They make powerfeed bodies, in fact, I have one that I was planning on getting rid of. |
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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Mack
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 2:00pm |
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Isn't the term "force fed hopper without the force" kind of contradictory?
 The original concept behind power feeding, back when it was a garage mod, was to overcome the blowback problems that certain early semi-automatics (such as the BE Stingray series markers) had which interfered with feeding. In worst case scenarios, air escaping back past the bolt and up the feed neck could push the balls far enough back up into the hopper to cause misfeeds, chops or even blank (air only) shots. In practice, a hole was drilled in the elbow near the 45* bend. (Generally just above it but the exact location was dependent upon the relationship between the elbow and feed neck and how the paint ended up stacking in the elbow.) The purpose was two-fold:
So I don't know if it is a solution or not*, but it sounds like your options are limited as it is. *A lot depends on whether the problem is blowback related or just do to having an extremely short stack of balls waiting to be shot. |
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oldpbnoob
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Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 3:26pm |
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Ah, ok. Stock stainless steel mag bodies have the hole you're talking about and there is also a "powerfeed" body that allows for longer stacks of balls. I might try doubling up somehow on the wire nubbins to see if that helps with resistance. Honestly, I haven't had much of a chance to play around with it. My brother and I have only gotten to go play rec ball once this year, and I hate to spend time at a scenario event troubleshooting. I need to take a couple of weekends, go to the local field, by myself if I have to, and do some teching. |
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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Mack
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 3:57pm |
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I was going to educate myself a bit on the old Automag detent system but it was an exercise in frustration. I couldn't find a single good picture or schematic of it. (What the heck is up with that.) I guess I have to do this by memory.
I am familiar with two types of wire nubbin detent systems. The one that was used on the F2 illustrators extended a little metal triangle into the breach. I believe the opposite end of the detent was attached to the marker with a screw and the detent itself was springy enough to flex. The other system was on a marker I handled/looked at while at my favorite paintball store. (No I don't remember what kind it was.) In this case the detent was held in place by a pair of o-rings around the barrel and it looked like the o-rings flexed instead of the actual detent. Is the 'Mag system similar to either one? |
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oldpbnoob
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Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 4:45pm |
[quote-Mack] In this case the detent was held in place by a pair of o-rings around the barrel and it looked like the o-rings flexed instead of the actual detent.
[/QUOTE] Combine them. Wire detent has a slot milled into the outside of the barrel. A little triange protrudes through to the inside of the barrel. Two o-rings slots are milled around the barrel, where two orings sit. There are two types of nubbins. The first are wire nubbins that are like thin paperclips, but made of was seems to be spring material. They also make flat plastic ones.
PICS:
 Can't seem to get a good pic. But the right side above is where the triangle protrudes into the barrel. the is an opposing triangle that hits the body that pushes the nubbing through and creates the pressure. Not exactly sure what the o-rings do really besides keeping the nubbin in place. This is a flat plastic nubbin. I don't have any wire ones.
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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Mack
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 4:51pm |
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Does the nubbin flex* or do the o-rings flex to allow the ball to pass? If it is the latter you could try stronger o-rings in conjunction with a force-fed hopper.
*That sounds kind of impertinent when you think about it too much. |
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oldpbnoob
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Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 5:14pm |
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The nubbin flexes. I think if I had some of the wire ones, I might be able to put the side by side that way I would have two triangles pushing into the barrel instead of one, and it might cause enough resitance to keep from double feeding. Problem is, they don't make the wire ones anymore, so I may have to fashion my own. |
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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Mack
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 5:38pm |
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If you have extras could you add a little material to the part that actually contacts the ball. (I was thinking JB weld or something similar.)
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oldpbnoob
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Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 5:48pm |
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I don't know that it's lack of material, as much as too much flex. I might have to try modding one and taking it with me to the field. I haven't had as much time to tech stuff since the wife has politely asked me to stop using the inside of the garage as a paintball testing facility. Some BS about sticky paint all over everything.
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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Mack
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 5:54pm |
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^^^Get a length of broom stick or something similar and hang it from the rafters so it hangs horizontally. (I use an old closet rail and clothesline cord.) Drape a beach towel over it so you have a double thickness of towel and place a large box beneath it to catch the paint that falls out of it. In many instances you will even be able to reuse the paint from the box for further testing. (Probably more so now that I just realized that padding in the bottom of the box might also be a good idea.)
Edited by Mack - 03 September 2010 at 7:49pm |
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Evil Elvis
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 9:00pm |
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Those are MAGnificent! Mags are the only Non Tippmann guns I like. Kudos to you man.
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StormyKnight
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 10:00pm |
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Your mags look fantastic! I'm drooling about your eMag. Man, what a centerpiece that is. Of course that J&J barrel looks good on that other mag. I forgot about getting that to you.
I'd recommend getting a bunch of the plastic nubbins for your twistlock barrels. Well worth the money I spent on them. Like them so much better than the original wire nubbin. Was completely worthless with my Eggy2 jamming rounds into the breach. Caused a lot of double loading and breaks. It wasn't strong enough. The plastic jobs work soooo much better.
I just picked up a 68/4500 Flatline regulated bottle off eBay for $160. Only a year old. Never used and aired up once. Stoked to try it out now that I've RT-valved my mag.
Seriously jealous over your collection. Very nice I have to say! Edited by StormyKnight - 03 September 2010 at 10:05pm |
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oldpbnoob
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Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 10:18pm |
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Thanks Stormy. Irony is, you are the one that got me interested in Mags in the first place.. I actually use the plastic nubbins on all my twistlocks. Maybe I just got a bad one on NC. Need to try another one. It doesnt seem to be so much of an issue with the J&J, maybe it's the barrel? I wonder if it could be that the bore is bigger on the MiniMag barrel? Hmm. Might be worth a look.
Thanks for the kudos.
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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StormyKnight
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Posted: 03 September 2010 at 10:43pm |
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Mack wrote: