Leaky Power Tube

Hey there people, tore my marker apart to install some new parts which included a Rufus Dawg Wicked power tube. So i had to unscrew the main line from the valve body, during reassembly i used clay thread sealant to reattach breaded line. During test fire the cyclone screw and velocity screw was white form being cold. Took the marker apart an put the stock tube back in. Then i used TEFLON tape on the threads. Reassembled the marker and when i gassed it up i heard air coming from the tube again. So i took the marker apart again and gassed up just the tube out of the marker to see were it was coming from. It was coming from the threads. So my question to you guys is what the hell do you use on these threads to stop the Co2. Maybe i'm not using enough tape maybe??? 

What jordanpischke said. I like to use two layers of teflon. Are you also using locktite on the screws on the side of the reciever?

I prefer Teflon tape to thread sealant for air lines.  Thread sealant, being a liquid, can flow into unwanted places; tape does not do this.  When using the tape, start with three layers and cut off any that hangs over the end that goes into the valve; you do not want loose pieces of it floating around in there.  If it still leaks you can add more layers, but if it takes more than four or five, the threads are probably damaged.  (The valve is aluminum and the threads are easy to cross-thread/strip.)

You can use a very tiny amount of thread sealant (I prefer the red for this) on the valve screws (the ones on the right side of the receiver) to hold them in place.  Note that no air should ever leak from the screw holes even if the screws are not in place and if it does you have a bad o-ring on the valve inside the power tube.

Use the original power tube; the only advantage to after-market power tubes, in fact, the only advantage to most after-market internal parts; is that selling them makes the manufacturers rich.

Regarding the velocity screw; you should screw it all the way in, then back it out three full turns.  Then you should test fire over a chronograph and adjust as necessary to be below the maximum FPS allowed at your field.  If you're playing outlaw ball, you should be firing under 300 FPS.  You should also be checking your FPS before every day of play.  If you are using CO2 you should be checking between games and adjusting as necessary as well.




Edited by Mack - 13 April 2011 at 1:14am

I would like to get these bugs worked out before the cyclone stuff comes and the AMP board so i can install the e-grip (TechT had some shipping issues with UPS..Delayed)..So i might still be picking your brains in the weeks to come hehe..i really like this Forum why better then the Alpha Black Forum..Keep up the good advise