pro carbine wont stay cocked

Author

Message

Topic Search

Topic Options

p/csteveo

Member

Joined: 11 April 2005
Status: Offline
Points: 1

Post Options

Post Reply

Quote p/csteveo

Report Post

Thanks(0)

Quote

Topic: pro carbine wont stay cocked
Posted: 11 April 2005 at 6:33am

hello friends i was went balling yesterday at high v outdoors and that place was cool but any way, halfway throught the day for no reason that i can see my carb seemed to run out of air (made that te te te te sound) and un cocked. though sceptical i figured i was out of air or my tank was screwd up. so i degas and screw in my brothers tank, cocked it all seems well no leaks heard and then pull the trigger! the same te te te soumd and the bolt settled in to an uncocked position i was so mad because it was my first time in while to play and was in the middle of a very fun game

if any one knows what to do plaes tell me

Liquid3

Gold Member

Bigots & Bibles ROCK MY WORLD!!

Joined: 20 December 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Status: Offline
Points: 1137

Post Options

Post Reply

Quote Liquid3

Report Post

Thanks(0)

Quote

Posted: 11 April 2005 at 8:28am

Hi and welcome to Tippmann. First try to cock gun without airing it up. You should always cock it before. Does it stay cocked? If no, go try a good cleaning and oiling and check your rear bolt, trigger sear, springs and retry with air. If there is still a problem with a known good full tank you have a worn sear and rear bolt that will need replacing.

Edited by Liquid3

SR_Crewchief View Drop Down

Platinum Member

Joined: 12 June 2002
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 2663

Post Options

Post Reply

Quote SR_Crewchief

Report Post

Thanks(0)

Quote

Posted: 11 April 2005 at 6:34pm

Other possibilities are:

The drive spring has weakened an no longer opens the valve enough for adaquate blown back.

The valve internals are drying and restricting air flow.

Something is restricting the air flow between the tank and the valve.

The Drive pin has bent.

The connecting rod has bent.

I'd start by lubing the valve. Next check ASA for blockage and the air line for kinks. Next check the drive pin and connecting rod. Next replace the drive spring. If none of these fix your issue then go to the sear and hammer replacement. Last, you could have a valve that is failing and needs replacement.

Make the simple maintenance checks before commonent replacements. They're both quicker and cheaper.

crazy_dave View Drop Down

Member

Strike 2, Filter Dodging.

Joined: 23 January 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 970

Post Options

Post Reply

Quote crazy_dave

Report Post

Thanks(0)

Quote

Posted: 13 April 2005 at 12:22pm

you said its been a while since you last played...you didnt keep your gun cocked and collecting dust did you?....hope not, that would have weakend the drive spring, check your sear maybe its worn down err something, is your brothers tank a lp tank?...if its co2 its a high pressure tank

Real guns have gills.

Tosha

Member

Joined: 13 April 2005
Location: Norway
Status: Offline
Points: 1

Post Options

Post Reply

Quote Tosha

Report Post

Thanks(0)

Quote

Posted: 13 April 2005 at 3:05pm

I have the same problem with my pro carbine!exept when I have ball inn the marker it works...but if it`s empty it makes that prrrr sound like i have respons trigger:P

damer e akuratt så vin,di blir bedre me årene;)

SR_Crewchief View Drop Down

Platinum Member

Joined: 12 June 2002
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 2663

Post Options

Post Reply

Quote SR_Crewchief

Report Post

Thanks(0)

Quote

Posted: 14 April 2005 at 7:14am

Tosha wrote:

I have the same problem with my pro carbine!exept when I have ball inn the marker it works...but if it`s empty it makes that prrrr sound like i have respons trigger:P

That can be a sign of a weakening drive spring.

You can also get this condition if you've installed an RVA, are using the stock hammer(rear bolt) and have the powertube velocity screw backed all the way out of the airflow. If this is your setup advance the powertube velocity screw part way into the air chamber to provide additional back pressure for cycling the hammer.