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over polishing!?
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AlienA-5 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 July 2006 at 11:40am
i wanted to polish my A-5's internals so i got a dremel and put a polishing head on it. i did the whole thing as light as i could and i put the back together. im kinda scared now! i shook the a little bit and you can hear just the slightest bit of the bolt moving back and forth in the chamber. did i "over-polish" it. i haven't tried it yet cuz im outta air.  but even if it does shoot, will it be an air-hog?
stop whining an play
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FarSeer View Drop Down
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Polishing the internals means that you take steel wool and remove all of the
overspray. Get more air and tell what happened.
My E-Bolted 98
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ro_ck_solid_x View Drop Down
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i dont think it really matters how much you polish the receivers as long as a smooth finish is obtained. my 98 has a little bit of side to side slop to begin with its not supposed to be tight or else it would drag. as for air consumption, the amount of air released is determined by how far back the poppet valve is pushed. That will stay the same unless spring work is done.
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Bruce A. Frank View Drop Down
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Originally posted by AlienA-5 AlienA-5 wrote:

i wanted to polish my A-5's internals so i got a dremel and put a polishing head on it. i did the whole thing as light as i could and i put the back together. im kinda scared now! i shook the a little bit and you can hear just the slightest bit of the bolt moving back and forth in the chamber. did i "over-polish" it. i haven't tried it yet cuz im outta air.  but even if it does shoot, will it be an air-hog?

The only place in the marker where it might be possible to create too much clearance is where the "O" ring on the front bolt makes a seal behind the barrel when the ball is fired.

The only places that need to be polished are surfaces that are rubbed against by moving parts. Those areas are only around the rear bolt (hammer) and the "O ring of the front bolt. Everything is essentially self aligning..the front bolt rides on the power tube and the rear bolt is guided by the spring, and the spring rod, and the actuation rod.

You would have to remove SIGNIFICANT amounts of material to cause any impact on function or gas usage. Nothing you could accomplish with the felt bob or even the Cratex wheel on the Dremel.

Now, if you had a really, really small felt bob to polish the channel in which the actuator rod slides...

BTW, did you ever try shaking the marker BEFORE you polished it so you'd have a reference for the rattle you THINK you have now? Again, you didn't make any difference in the amount of slop between parts in the marker.



Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 11 July 2006 at 6:59pm
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AlienA-5 View Drop Down
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thanks lol i was just a little scared that i wasted 250 by polishing haha!

 
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S\/\/4T-L()G4N View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Bruce A. Frank Bruce A. Frank wrote:

Originally posted by AlienA-5 AlienA-5 wrote:

i wanted to polish my A-5's internals so i got a dremel and put a polishing head on it. i did the whole thing as light as i could and i put the back together. im kinda scared now! i shook the a little bit and you can hear just the slightest bit of the bolt moving back and forth in the chamber. did i "over-polish" it. i haven't tried it yet cuz im outta air. but even if it does shoot, will it be an air-hog?


The only place in the marker where it might be possible to create too much clearance is where the "O" ring on the front bolt makes a seal behind the barrel when the ball is fired.


The only places that need to be polished are surfaces that are rubbed against by moving parts. Those areas are only around the rear bolt (hammer) and the "O ring of the front bolt. Everything is essentially self aligning..the front bolt rides on the power tube and the rear bolt is guided by the spring, and the spring rod, and the actuation rod.


You would have to remove SIGNIFICANT amounts of material to cause any impact on function or gas usage. Nothing you could accomplish with the felt bob or even the Cratex wheel on the Dremel.


Now, if you had a really, really small felt bob to polish the channel in which the actuator rod slides...


BTW, did you ever try shaking the marker BEFORE you polished it so you'd have a reference for the rattle you THINK you have now? Again, you didn't make any difference in the amount of slop between parts in the marker.



Silly bruce, the front bolt o-ring seals INSIDE of the barrel. Also on a stock tippmann there will never be a difference in air consumption unless you change the drive spring strength or have a regulator.
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Bruce A. Frank View Drop Down
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Originally posted by S\/\/4T-L()G4N S\/\/4T-L()G4N wrote:


Silly bruce, the front bolt o-ring seals INSIDE of the barrel. Also on a stock tippmann there will never be a difference in air consumption unless you change the drive spring strength or have a regulator.

Sorry, I haven't looked at the fit since I was using an after market bolt about 8 months ago. That particular bolt had the "O" ring set back about 3/16" inch from where the stock bolt's "O" ring is located. That one did not quiet touch the edge of the barrel in the "fire" position.

The stock bolt's "O" ring is actually about 1/8" to 3/16" inside the breech of the barrel when the marker fires. Therefore the receiver has only a guiding effect as the forward bolt slides home. I do remember having to chamfer the edge of the barrel's breech for one 98C I was setting up. Don't know why that visual picture of the non-stock bolt's "O" ring position stuck in my mind. I goofed!

Now I have seen a marker that wasn't a gas hog suddenly become one, but not from a polish job. The forward bolt had an internal "O" ring that sealed between the bolt and the power tube on which it slid. Apparently during a reassembly after cleaning the internal "O" ring popped loose and the forward bolt's gas leak would eat a bottle of CO2 in half the usual time.



Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 12 July 2006 at 12:48am
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