An issue or two

OK where to start...ah yes the newest problem...when i go to cock my 98c..i will usually get a few shots out of it before it for lack of a better term sticks... and i have to recock it to keep going..quite annoying...the internals have been re o-ringed and greased and the inside is clean of defects and burrs.....still a issue......

next line of business.......i thought it was my r/t but even disconnected it still does it...get some shots off then my 98c acts like it goes full auto without pulling the trigger....acts like my tank ran out of air.....

this is prolly pretty common...with my expansion chamber and cyclone and r/t and remote hose hooked up..my 20 oz tank doesn't last long.. i can usually get 400 to 500 shots out of it..my friend running the same setup gets almost 900 rounds out of his.....my air fittings are good and teflon taped where required..


Edited by pdxguy77 - 10 July 2008 at 11:56pm

PDX, do you get the same issues when you put the tank directly on the marker without the remote? I have nearly the same setup and have issues at times as well. I have noticed that I have a hard time getting the r/t and Cyclone to cycle properly with the expansion chamber and remote. When I hook the tank directly up to the marker, it works like a champ. Put the remote on and it has issues. The full auto thing may be caused by this, but also how old is the marker and have you tried replacing the sear? If it isn't due to the remote +xchamber, it could be the culprit. Good luck, let us know if you get it fixed.

Having both an expansion chamber and a remote means that your air system outside of the tank is rather large and can hold quite a bit of air. Therefore as soon as you open up your tank it is drained of x amount of ounces right away just to fill the system. On the other end of it when you're running low it becomes much harder to pressurize such a large area so you're losing the last bit of gas on each tank. As for the cycling problems check the sear to bolt contact obviously as well as the sear spring. It should be the stiffer one that came with the r/t. Also grease up the entire trigger assembly to make sure everything is moving freely. The not cycling problem is probably either the bolts over torqued or the rear bolt isn't getting enough pressure on it to cycle it back. Try turning up your regulator a bit if you have one or check out and oil your o-rings, which i see you've done, or maybe send a bit through the valve as well. If that still fails check the valve bolts on the other side of the marker. Make sure both are present and decently tight.