Scenario Dreams Projects

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   I was just at Scenario Dreams website and was interested in some of his projects so i though you may be to.
Some of the pics didn't work but it may just be my computer?
Bolt Action 
They both have 1/4" nylon spacers on them to allow a smoother sliding. Plus having a steel screw rake along aluminum would cause problems by cutting into it. 

Now the parts start coming together. Below you see the bolt inserted into the re-cocking plate. And the screw inserted into the plate to hole it together. As you can see, the channel will allow the bolt to rotate. I was pretty proud when I figured that out. 

I've inserted the bolt into the frame. The tapped hole is lined up with the "L" channel. Double checking your meaurements is the key to getting it right. 

Finally, I screw in the re-cocking know and the screw that pulls the hammer back. I lost the original screw, so I just bought a new one. 

Here is a GIF of the final working system. 

Next, I drill and tap the holes for the weaver rail so I can install a red dot. you have to make sure you drill the hole exactly in the center of the marker. Otherwise you won't be able to line up the dot with where you're shooting. 

And here is the weaver installed. Depening on how my other projects work, I might install a scope. We'll see. 

Next I modded the feed port for our new Sniper Paintbullet. Using my mill, I milled out a larger opening that will allow the paintbullet to drop right in. 

After completing the testing the opeing for a good fit. I manufactured a special feed tube that will allow the paintbullet to drop right in. Its simply sheet steel folded to the right shape. Then I soldered the ends together to hold it solid. Later I will mill a couple viewing holes so I can see how many rounds I have left. and I need a tension spring to hold the bullet tight. 

Then to test the fit with a couple paintbullets. 

Here it is installed on the marker. Needs a coat of paint... 

After finding a old cheap rifle stock on Ebay ($5.00 with shipping) and taking a wood saw to it, I have my stock. The Red Dot is installed in this pic. I've also installed the 12g CO2 holder. I decided to go CO2 because this will be for sniping. And I really hate remotes. After testing, we'll see how it performs... 

On the reverse side of the marker, I installed an aluminum plate. It give the stock a little more support. Otherwise, I ran the risk of breaking the wood. A little metal paint and she will be perfect. 

"Snipers" Paintbullet
After years of players asking about if its possible and years of wanting to actually do it, I decided to dedicate a little time to developing a true paintbullet. I'm a big Scenario players and I've played a sniper on a couple games with my 98 with a flat line. But as we all know, the physics of a paintball make being a true sniper next to impossible. Most paintball "Snipers" are actually just regular players with ghillie suits and the skills of a sniper, but not the ammunition. Here you will find any information I've posted on my progress at making a paintbullet. Or at least as close as one can come.

I'm not going to go into the physics of why paintballs are horrible in terms of accuracy and their other limitations. Instead, I will let you research. There are two things that I have concentrated on: 1) better aerodynamics of the ball and 2) better long range accuracy.

A sphere is one of the worse shapes in terms of aerodynamics. Second to a brick. So first we need to change the shape. There are a couple options avail. First you could remold the paintball into a typical bullet ship (pointy tip, flat tail) Second, you could make more elongated to allow for better air flow (round tip, flat back) And third, make a teardrop shape. 

The first is obviously bad because paintballs hit people. And a pointy tip would impact on a smaller surface area and would cause more damage to the skin. That don't work. Next, the elongation. This is the next best solution because the rounded tip has the same impact characteristics as a standard ball (ignoring the additional weight of the elongation. And lastly the teardrop. this is the best solution as it will have the lowest coefficient of drag, minimal increase in weight and the same impact area to maintain the same energy distribution as a regular paintball.

Now, on to higher accuracy. The easiest way to increase the accuracy of a BULLET (not necessarily a ball) is to induce spin. This is why rifle barrels have rifling. I believe principal will similarly increase the accuracy of a paintbullet. But what about the liquid fill, you ask?!? You are very correct. The liquid within the paintball will cause the spin to cease soon after leaving te barrel. I have three solutions/points on this. 1) the ball only has to spin for under 1 sec. The ball isn't going to be flying longer than that. 2) the additional mass at the rear of the paintbullet will allow the spin to last longer because of the increased mass. Hopefully long enough to hit its target. And 3) angled fins located on the back side of the paintbullet that will allow the flow of air to keep the paintbullet spinning.

So, in the end, a perfect paintbullet would have a teardrop shaped Paintbullet with angled fins to induce spin. 

But cause of manufacturing difficulties and the fact that you need to have a certain about of area to stabilize the fins, I have gone with a hybrid shape. Part elongated and part teardrop.

Now, there are now a couple issue that come up. One is the increase of mass because of the tail section and fins. Next it the loading of a bullet shaped projectile. Three, the material that the tail section is made of. Since E=1/2 MV^2 (kinetic energy), increasing the mass will increase the Energy of the projectile. A regular paintball is around 3g (.003Kg), and with a speed is 280 fps (92m/s), we get a total kinetic energy of 1/2 (.003)(92)^2 = 12.7 joules. So if out tail section adds 1g of weight, in order to maintain the same impact force, we have to limit the MAX FPS to 240fps. So, in order for this to be useful, the accuracy will have to be pretty damn good!!! And remember the teardrop shape will allow the bullet to MAINTAIN its velocity better than a ball. Which mean you will actually hit a target FASTER at longer distances. At least, that's the theory. And of course, if you have a very accurate paintbullet, I would hope the you would aim for a player's pack or buttock instead of their head!!!!

So, on to loading. For any player that has read this much is probably willing to sacrifice volume for pin-point accuracy. The only way I know to load these babies is with a magazine type loader. You're not going to have a 200 round hopper will with these. That's just the way it is. But maybe if these actually catch on and some other marker manufacturer will come up with a way to do it. We'll see.

Lastly, and most importantly, I need to come up with a material to use for the tail section. Ideally, and hopefully eventually, I can have a paintball manufacturer to make the entire paintbullet using the same technique as a paintball. Once I know this design works, I'll pursue that. In the mean time, I need a material to use that is strong enough to be fired out of a marker, but soft enough to not hurt anyone when hit. There are quite a few materials that are avail on the market. Everything from silicon rubber to a soft PVC plastic. Right now I have plans to use a platinum cored silicon rubber mix. Its very similar in harness to a paintball shell, yet is also hypoallergenic. It will be good enough for testing.

TESTING COMING SOON!!!! But here are a few pics of the final product