My brothers’ and my 98s...

Ill start a topic with the same title in the gallery as soon as I get some pics, but until then Ill list what we use.
ME:
98 Custom
12" J&J Ceramic
Polished internals
Ported feedneck
Double trigger w/ pen spring and #30 pin mod
Drop forward
WGP wrap-around grips
9oz tank

MY BROTHERS:
Model 98
14" DYE Xcel
Polished internals
Ported feedneck
Double trigger w/ lighter spring, #30 pin mod, and handguard
Drop forward
Milled off lettering
Top-cocking
Vert. adapter
ACI Sub-Zero 4-stage expansion chamber
12oz tank

Ive bought and built both of them... bought them both second hand (at seperate times) and have slowly upgraded them. Now, my brother is headed back to college and Im letting him take the M98 with him. I really should give it a paintjob before he goes, but I dont have the time, ambition, or supplies. First break (thanxgivin), when we are both back home, Ill buy some MetalCast and bake on a nice finish for it, but until then its going to be an ungly, ugly beast... but it will perform beautifully. Yeah, it does seem that Im letting my brother have the better marker, but thats okay. I was too lazy to switch the internals, so I just put the x-chamber on the M98. Plus, I have plans to someday put a LP system in my 98C. So Im kind of glad that I gave him a marker he wont ever have to worry about. Anyways, Ill post pics when I can. Until then, tell me what you think... what do I need, what should I look into, etc etc.

^^yes im curious on that too

^wouldn't you have leakage problems with that?

But the groove for the sear would be facing up and would cause the gun to fire automatically. You would have to drill a hole for the cocking know straight thru the bolt on the top side. You cannot just turn the bolt.

Thats cool however he did it

98c - baller wrote: im gana do mine tomorrow, like boydster said well almost heres wat it gana be like im gana turn the bolt so that the part the sear would normally catch os facing me, then im gana make a new place for the sear to catch on to, then i have to make a 1/8 in hole in the hammer (not stright trhough) so that it can hook on to the linkage arm, then round out all the edges of the old contacts points between the sear and tha hammer, then i have to make a long whole in the top of my gun for the cockin knob yes i wil post pics through the process note: i will make the hammer mods befrore i mill my body, b.c  a new hammer is only $14

Or you can just drill a hole in the top of the bolt.

that not a real bad idea, the only thing is i have to be really care ful where the hole goes in the rear bolt insert so i will problly try this

Yea, just drill a hole in the bolt then in the body so it can move back and forth, then rotate the inside of the bolt so that the cocking rod fits in the middle, then put everything back together

Sorry for taking so long, but here is how I did it. Okay, drill a hole in the top of the hammer and mill a cut in the top yeah yeah yeah. You guys are forgetting soemthing very important. The cocking coking goes ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE HAMMER. You can t do this with thingy becase if you drill all the way through then the cocking rod will hit the sear and all kinds of poop=poop will happen. you have to file a bit off the sear to make it happen... which mean, yes, you have to elongate the hole for the spring to go through. Its all simple with a dremel but it takes a little time. So, yeah, Ill port pistures when Im not lazy and when Im not under the influence. Have fun and be safe.