Messed up my 98c

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   Alrighty...I've run into some problems (caused mainly by me)  I did not take heed to the warnings on this forum and many others about NOT filing the rear hammer.  I filed some of it away, so the sear wouldnt have to move quite as far to let go of the rear hammer.  I put the gun together and cocked it and shot it a few times without any air.  When I cocked it back the sear caught just fine.  Then I gassed it up and it doesnt recock at all.  So I figured the problem was the material I removed from the hammer.  So I took about the gun and removed some more metal from the hammer trying to actually give the sear MORE to bite onto.  That didnt work either.  When I looked at the sear catching the hammer...the sear couldnt go up far enough to take advantage of the extra room I gave it.  It was being stopped by the lower pin behind the trigger.  While looking at it, I also saw the sear was a little rounded on the top.  So I got out my file again and touched it up so it was pointed again.  That didnt help either.  So....does anyone know off the top of thier heads how much a sear and a low pressure rear bolt (not the whole rear cocking assembly, just the bolt) would cost?  Its sunday and I figure Tippmann is closed.  Just wanted to get a price in my head.  Thanks a lot.

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JonnieBlaze Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 16 July 2002 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 23	Post Options Post Reply Quote JonnieBlaze Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Messed up my 98c Posted: 30 January 2005 at 3:19pm
	Alrighty...I've run into some problems (caused mainly by me) I did not take heed to the warnings on this forum and many others about NOT filing the rear hammer. I filed some of it away, so the sear wouldnt have to move quite as far to let go of the rear hammer. I put the gun together and cocked it and shot it a few times without any air. When I cocked it back the sear caught just fine. Then I gassed it up and it doesnt recock at all. So I figured the problem was the material I removed from the hammer. So I took about the gun and removed some more metal from the hammer trying to actually give the sear MORE to bite onto. That didnt work either. When I looked at the sear catching the hammer...the sear couldnt go up far enough to take advantage of the extra room I gave it. It was being stopped by the lower pin behind the trigger. While looking at it, I also saw the sear was a little rounded on the top. So I got out my file again and touched it up so it was pointed again. That didnt help either. So....does anyone know off the top of thier heads how much a sear and a low pressure rear bolt (not the whole rear cocking assembly, just the bolt) would cost? Its sunday and I figure Tippmann is closed. Just wanted to get a price in my head. Thanks a lot.

98c Dude13 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 18 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2082	Post Options Post Reply Quote 98c Dude13 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 January 2005 at 4:32pm
	When my valve body broke I went to the local shop and they had extras so maybe thats what u should do. An di doubt that any of the pieces your talking about is that expensive.
	TIPPMANN 98 CUSTOM 14" Progressive barrel 32* Black gel grips BT-16 Double trigger Pen Spring Mod X-core Expansion Chamber Vertical Adapter

triggerhappy1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Joined: 07 May 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3376	Post Options Post Reply Quote triggerhappy1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 January 2005 at 6:39pm
	yes, you will need a new sear and rear bolt. parts for the LPK are not listed for regular sale, but i think it uses the same sear (part #98-35 $11.70. so youll have to call up Tippmann and ask if you can buy a LPK bolt, and sear.


BladeBuster Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 31 March 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 755	Post Options Post Reply Quote BladeBuster Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 31 January 2005 at 6:38am
	they dont cost much. EVERY piece inside of a 98 custom is less than 30. except for the valve and the outsides (reciever halfs) of the gun. look in ur manual. its gives a price for everything in your gun.
	I BREAK WALMART BLADES!!! i have no gun right now... Ion setup: Red SP Ion Crossfire high pressure 68/4500 Dye 05 Tank Cover Empire Reloader Dye Sticky .45 clear

LordJovian Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 01 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1882	Post Options Post Reply Quote LordJovian Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 31 January 2005 at 8:25am
	http://www.chasepb.com You can get a new sear here, but the LPK bolt has to be from Tippmann- it's hard to find a site with that. There is another titanium rear bolt out there for the LPK, but I don't know how it performs. You should have asked if what you did was a good idea. Because it wasn't.
	A-5 E-grip Chipley Custom Carbon Graphite 16" Evil Adapter(Spyder) 32 Deg New '03 XChamber Remote Line Gun Sling Sniper f/x Stock LPK 68/4500 HPA R-5 CP Reg JCS Duel Trigger

JonnieBlaze Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 16 July 2002 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 23	Post Options Post Reply Quote JonnieBlaze Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 31 January 2005 at 10:27am
	Well I fixed my gun. If you look at the groove on the bottom of the rear bolt, you see the angles are perfect 90* angles. Well when I filed the rear bolt the second time (to give the sear more to bite onto..trying to fix it) I didnt give it a perfect 90* angle. Even tho the sear now had plenty to catch onto, it couldnt because the angles were messed up and it'd slip right off. So I got out a smaller file and made the angle better and now it works perfect. I shot about 300 rounds and it did great. Then I took it back apart and threw a lighter sear spring in (i had the big, heavy RT sear spring in, but then i changed it to a stock spring) and shot another 500 rounds or so and I havent had a doublefire yet. So I'm pretty sure its fixed now. Thanks for your all's help though.