Uh Oh

Very well put Bruce!  Time to make a call or two.

eldiablo_si wrote: Ah, good to hear.  Is it possible that I can get a replacement bolt and sear direct from Tippmann?  If so, I could send in my E-Trigger, and they could send me it fixed and the other things as well. On a side note, if they realize that I cut some wire/soldered, will they void my waranty on it? Also, is there any way I could talk them into switching my board with the WAS board?

Warranty! Who cares about warranty, you want it fixed...correctly. Include a letter that explains your attempt to fix it yourself. That is what you were doing wasn't it? And they may take pity on you and repair or replace under warranty.

Tippmann should have no problem replacing your hammer and sear, as for the cut and re-soldered e-grip, you are on your own.

Rule number one: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!".  The E-grip needs a little "adjustment" from time to time, especially when using a non Tippman double trigger, but no cutting or soldering is required.

I put 60k + paintballs through my A-5 with the E-grip. The only problems I ever encountered were dead batteries and worn sears.

eldiablo_si wrote: No, not E-bolt.  E-Grip for an A-5.  Just found out that my soldering skills suck when it comes to tiny little jobs such as this.  I also cut a wire while trying to pull the protective cover off the end.  I think my E-Grip might never get fixed now (without paying Tippmann a considerable amount of money to fix it anyways).  I might look into a RT or something, because this E-Grip has been nothing but trouble for me since the day I got it.

I woud have been nice if you'd caught my mistake over the E-Bolt instead of the E-Trigger much earlier. There is no problem then, send it back to Tippmann!

eldiablo_si wrote: Well, my soldering skills are mediocre, but the main problem is that except for power wires, all the other wires are the same color.  So, not only do I know which wire to connect to to each place (not a problem, only 16 possible configurations), but I'm worried that I could somehow short out the board if I connected them wrong (which like I said 16 possible configurations and my luck isn't that good on guessing which goes where).  I supose I'll just tinker around with it and hope for the best.  As for the switch, will it still have that same angle as far as the little metal plate?

On both the 98 and 98C kit the position of the switch is adjustable so the relationship of the trigger to the lever arm on the switch is an adjust-to-fit one. You can also carefully bend the arm if needed.

Now, which E-Bolt kit do you have? The one for the 98 or the one for the 98C. Somewhere on these forums I have posted a picture of where the wires go, but tell me which kit you have and I will try to post a picture of the proper wire location.

I just realized that I still have possibly usable pictures still available. These may give you enough info to replace the wires where they belong.

^This is the Psycho Ballistics kit for the 98.

And these two pictures, that I posted on how to convert the battery wire to a quick disconnect set up, shows the Tippmann GTA E-Bolt board for the 98C. The black and red wires are the battery connection. Make sure to retain the correct polarity.

Hope this gives you enough info to fix things.

 

eldiablo_si wrote: Since you have been so helpful Bruce, I have a new problem that has emerged.  Not sure what it is called, but the little thin piece of metal that my trigger clicks to activate the E-Trigger has not only bent horribly (don't ask how.  it's a long story), but the back part of the black actuator (best word to describe the little black box I could think of) where the metal piece goes in the groove is broken (i.e it won't stay in there at all and it's bent anyways).  I also have ripped just about every wire out of the board.  If I were to send this to Tippmann, would they just fix it and send it back or what? Didn't want to start a new thread since I'm getting such informative responses in this one.

Tippmann may not be supporting the E-Bolt just from a parts availability problem. The switch is a micro type that you can find on line, McMaster-Carr,  in electronics stores and in some Radio Shacks. They are not that hard to find. It is a standard switch...not something made specifically for Tippmann.

As for damage to the wires in the board, if Tippmann cannot or won't work on the board, it is time to sharpen your soldering skills. If you can create a wiring diagram (which wire goes where) a place like an independent cell phone repair place of maybe even a small TV repair shop.

One last chance, you might contact places like TAG Sports (Cheetah boards and mods to markers) or Wicked Air Sports (the famous WAS boards) to see if they can make such repairs.

Since you have been so helpful Bruce, I have a new problem that has emerged.  Not sure what it is called, but the little thin piece of metal that my trigger clicks to activate the E-Trigger has not only bent horribly (don't ask how.  it's a long story), but the back part of the black actuator (best word to describe the little black box I could think of) where the metal piece goes in the groove is broken (i.e it won't stay in there at all and it's bent anyways).  I also have ripped just about every wire out of the board.  If I were to send this to Tippmann, would they just fix it and send it back or what?

Didn't want to start a new thread since I'm getting such informative responses in this one.

eldiablo_si wrote: I have found a replacement bolt, but I have a new question.  This is different than the one in my gun, and it is the new style, but will it work with my gun without modification?  http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.pr odInfo&productID=920&categoryID=13

Don't you read the info they provide on the page? It is a replacement for the old bolt. It is being shipped in place of the old bolt. It requires a different insert than the old bolt. Should I be so obvious as to say that it is being shipped in place of the old bolt so it is intended to still fit in place of the old bolt and the information provided on the parts page said nothing about having to modify the older marker to accept the new, same part number, part!!!

Eldiablo, keep on asking questions about minutia that is explained in the readily available literature and I will eventually make a comment about your laziness and desire to be spoon fed rather than to do a little research. You question was CLEARLY answered by the info on the parts page.

Ok, well I guess I need to quit avoiding the inevitable and go buy myself some replacements.  What do you think it will cost for a replacement sear and rear bolt?  Like I said, I know County has them, but they are down right now.  Also, I have read mixed reviews on that titanium rear bolt (not sure of the company).  Do you know anything about it?  I think it was like $60 or something.  Is it worth it over the stock one or what?

Well, I just found something interesting out.  Like I said before, I have changed out rear springs to different strengths.  I'm using like the 2nd to weakest strength as of right now.  At first, it did like I described, but as I started tweaking the rear velocity adjuster, I found that there is a certain spot (like one or two threads on the RVA) where it fires perfectly.  Knowing this new information, it doesn't make logical sense to me what you have been saying.  I mean, it shouldn't matter about spring tension if the bolt and the sear aren't fitting together properly right?  Maybe I'm way wrong, but could this change your previous diagnosis?