R/T Trigger Trouble

Me and fried just got done installing a R/T Trigger on my gun it's on a 98 Custom and I don't see a real improvement other than the new trigger spring. Gun is not leaking air, tank is full everything is where it should be. I already adjusted my rate of fire all the way and still nothing. Before we where having trouble pressing down on the trigger. I think we forgot the safety was on. Am I suppost be like like "Whoa!" after installing it.

I just noticed whenever I cock the gun and fire it without any CO2 I hear a clinging noise.


Edited by Chrisb319 - 05 June 2006 at 11:28pm

I have it fully turned counter clockwise.

  You can't just let the valve wide open.  The further the valve is towards the "closed" position, the easier it is to maintain the full auto effect, but the slower it will fire.  As you move towards the "wide open" position, the rate of fire will be faster, but it will be increasingly more difficult to maintain the full auto effect.  You have to start at the "closed" position and slowly turn the screw until you can achieve the highest fire rate possible/desired, yet still be able to make the gun fire like it is automatic.  This takes patience, practice, and lots of c02.

  Imagine that the "sweet spot" (the place where the R/T makes the full auto effect) is a window or something.  The less the screw is turned outward, the bigger the window is, but the slower the ROF.  The more outward the screw is turned makes the ROF higher, but closes the window.  You have to find a happy medium so that you can get high ROF while still holding the trigger in the "window".

  I hope that helps, because I think I just confused myself!

the R/T adjustment screw, thats what you use to adjust the R/T

lol, also, ive noticed with the r/t it the front blowback screw(one u use to screw the hose into the powertube sometimes doesnt line up and doesnt alow air through, so (on my old one) i had the line(where the flatblade screwdriver goes in) go straight up and down for air to pass through