**PAINTBALL 101-Basic Info**

It is of great help to the novice Thumbs Up

I'm trying to be a sniper in woodsball but at the same time I want to be able to deal with close quarters. Do you think the Flatline would be the best for me?

This was great, being a total newb to paintball, I found this well written and very informative... thanks for the effort...

Andy Mac
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Tippman A-5

nice

Excellent Post. Answered some questions for me and gave some good info.

Thanks for doing it.

KEEP JUNK OUT OF THE BARREL.

For the most part, putting any form of anything in your barrel will only decrease accuracy. You want as little interfering with your ball as possible, and certainly no liquid. That said, people used to use Rain-X inside their barrel. I never did this, and have my doubts this trick did anything. I really don't see the need to...

GI JOES SON: Actually, the entire inner surface of the Flatline is textured, so there is no lube. It is, however, overbored and curved. These three factors allow the paintball to grip the top of the barrel as it travels down it, imparting a backspin. This gives it the added distance the Flatty is known for.

Evil Elvis: "Detrevni is definally like a hillbilly hippy from hell"

I'm asking myself something... If I lubricate the inside of my gun's barrel, will it reduces the friction between the ball and the metal of the barrel and make the ball go further?

Hey, I wanted to buy a new marker and had a few questions.

First i have trouble on deciding between the x7 egrip or the x7 phenom

I know they are pretty similar for upgrades but i still cant decide

can someone please tell me some differences and which would be better for me

im looking for range, versitility and easily upgradible

I also realized the x7 has 2 more rails than the phenom.

I also wanted to know if the flatline barrel is worth it.

So in the end, which is truly more worth it and why

THE X7 or THE X7 PHENOM

advice would be to not spend under a hundred dollars. most markers brand new under 100 are crap. try to find a 98 custom package with a mask and a tank.

keet wrote:

"Make sure the buffer o-ring is reinstalled around the spring and spring guide."

Does this apply to the new A-5, which has a different end cap?

The end cap with the integral buffer does not require this o-ring. However, my A5 came from the factory with this o-ring even though it is not shown on the schematic for the older A5s either. I have continued to use an o-ring in this location and have never had a problem.

I haven't even really tried to remove my end cap or the buffer, and I think they don't really come apart.

I can't tell from the schematic if they do or not either. The older end-caps had a c-clip you could remove for disassembly, but it is unnecessary to do so. You can remove the o-ring with a pick (or bent paper clip) and slide a new one on without taking the end-cap apart.

Besides this, I generally use a stock.

If the stock does not have a built in buffer system, I highly recommend tossing an o-ring around the drive spring to act as a shock absorber for the rear bolt. I have seen stock mounting points and A5 shells fail from the constant hammering of the rear bolt.

I think that I tend toward the mil-sim look. Maybe you can understood, since you've already carried around an M16 for quite a while longer than I did.

It took me a while to get used to using the tank as a stock as well. Now I use the tank on some markers and aftermarket stocks on the others.,