Milling a 98.

Hi. Im in the progress of milling my 98c but I wanna just do more then take off the sight, letters etc. So far ive got the top linkage arm exposed, the area round the vert adapt removed, letters/velocity boss/etc flattened, front grips smoothed and the rear sight gone.

The area that I making me think is the area round the rear hammer which is where I need help. Does the hammer purely gets its blow back seal again the valve or does it also use the rear of the body to assist throwing the hammer back. If the rear body takes no part in helping to blow back the bolt does this mean I can remove lots of the body exposing the hammer aslong as it is strong enough to catch the hammer without breaking and breaking my face in lol?

Any thoughts guys? Cheers, Mike.

well the slot for the cocking knob is open. and the recievers dont hold any pressure. so u should be able to mill out the body. keep in mind tho this reeeally opens ur gun up to dirt and whatnot. and the body would be weakened significantly by milling holes around the back bolt. the recievers are cast molded so its not as strong as machines metal. in theory, as long as the rear bolt is guided into the back of the powertube, and the front bolt is guided into the barrel, you should be able to remove as much material as you want. it would look badass if you created an exo-skeleton effect by removing a bunch of pieces of the recievers. that being said i dount the halves would be strong enough.

just be sure to post pics :-)

uno187 wrote: if you are worried about the gun failing (this is a givin but I'll say it anyway) be sure to where a mask while testing it out after milling.

Lol, I wasnt even planning on been behind the gun when I first try it. I cant imagine the rear of the body gets that much greif or-else the buffer o-ring would get squashed much quicker then it does, also though while on the mill it would be worth lightening the hammer which would lower the inertia and so the stress on the body.

SO I should be doing it today so ill let y'all know how it goes, ill put more pics in the gallery section when its done.

be careful, i once saw the back of a 98 blow right off and hit my friend in the mask. It was completely unmilled, and i still have no idea how the heck it happened.

in case you need some more ideas

tallen702 wrote: what are you using to keep the linkage arm in place since you're removing the metal that keeps it from flying out during the action? Pro-series tippmann markers has a rear sight aperature that slid over top of the linkage arm to keep it in place, if that moved too far, the linkage arm would pop out of place and either get lost, or cause the marker to jam.

I could only suggest to him to remove only a portion of the metal on top of it. But maybe he will glue it in or something that would be cool as hell to see the arm move across the gun like that.