Psychoballistics eM98 Project *Update 1*

My new E-Bolt project:




This is a NIB Psychoballistics E-Bolt, which is thought to be the original, which Tippmann purchased the rights from. Includes everything, even the video that tells you how to set it up. If only I had a VCR.

Also, I also grabbed a set of M98 receivers to cram it in. Grand total, $155 shipped and PayPal'd. I'm gonna shove my 98c internals into the receivers, hack at 'em and color 'em. Should be a beautiful M98 when I'm done.

I will post pics more when I get it. Just felt like spreading the news!

Running Price List

- PB E-Bolt Kit: $135
- Model 98 Receivers: $20
- 98c Internals: $0 (already got 'em)

 

Update 1

Well, after putting everything together, I tested it with CO2 in a vertical position on a remote coil. Why CO2? I was desperate and out of air. I have encountered some problems. 
     1. I don't have another HPR for it. 
     2. I figured out the M98 and 98c triggers are different, so I had to make a ghettabulous trigger extension (read: screw in back of trigger).
     3. The ram isn't cycling properly. This may be because of 3 things: The ram isn't getting enough air, I'm low on CO2 (I don't think so, my Raptor is still cycling...) or the hammer on the ram is binding on the body. I'll polish it up to see if this helps.

Edited by DeTrevni - 20 October 2007 at 5:04pm

I want i want!!!!

ive already got an Ebolt though.


where did you find that NIB?


Edited by ctchofday - 20 October 2007 at 6:25pm

psychobalistics made a pretty good cocker, the lightning, its pretty fussy and a lot of people say they arnt built well and need a lot fo work, but they are very accurate, ive tested it and it is ever so slightly better than my freeflows accuracy. unfortunatly pretty much everything on the psycho breaks...

ctchofday wrote: \where did you find that NIB though?

Alright DeTrevni, Here's what you do.

Look at the silver ram housing. Notice how the two rings down by the actual brass ram are further apart than the others? Those two are the ones that fit where the rings on the end-cap sat. Now, take your right hand clam-shell. Place the board in the hollow recess of the handle, get your ASA screws, retaining bolts, and new double-tapped ASA and figure out the bolt depth. Give yourself 1/16 - 1/8th of an inch leeway above the end of the bolts (screwed all the way in with the ASA on) and mark that as the bottom position of the board. This is where you will want the board to sit so you don't accidentally screw the ASA bolts into it and fry the sucker.

Now, very carefully, use a very small dremmel grinding bit to grind out a half-circle at the front-lower corner of each side of the receivers' grips to allow passage of the lp line from the micro-rock to the solenoid that will be housed on the board inside the grips. Make sure you remove enough metal to let the LP line sit inside without pinching as that would restrict air-flow. Don't go too-big or you'll let moisture and dirt get in the grip and potentially mess up the board. You'll also need to notch the bottom front of each grip panel to allow the lp line to pass through.

On the left clam-shell, mark 1/3" wide by 2" long rectangle which runs lengthwise perpendicular to the length of the grip approximately above where the board's dip-switches are located on the other half of the clam-shell. Using a cutting wheel, remove this section and file it down so that you can access the panel by simply removing one grip-panel rather than dis-assembling the marker. Now, when putting everything back together you won't need the hammer, charging handle, end-cap, drive spring, or hammer buffer-ring, sear, sear springs, etc. You'll just need the trigger and the pin that allows it to pivot as well as the two pins that sit behind it. The two pins behind the trigger allow you to mount the micro-switch in place of the sear and trigger spring. Fix the board to the inside right half of the clam-shell (I used a dollop of hot-glue, but didn't have the video, so you should probably watch it and see what it says) and run the LP line from the lower input on the solenoid out the bottom of the grip frame. Run more lp line from the upper output of the solenoid to the barb on the back of the ram housing. It should have a recessed cut in the bottom of the ram housing to allow the line to pass out the back of the marker body to the barb without pinching or needing to mill the marker body. Once all of this is done, place the left-side of the clam-shell over the right side (with all parts placed inside) making sure the battery connection cable comes up through the charging handle opening on the left receiver half. Once the shell is in place, I suggest attaching a battery to the connection to make things easier. Use the battery-cover to cover the battery and the new bolts (about 6 threads longer than your old ones) to affix the whole thing to the marker sealing off the charging handle opening like a rocket-cock would. If the battery cable has an on/off switch on it, it should go through the rear of the battery housing, not sure if the PB ones did or not though. It's an easy enough mod mind you. Now, put the new ASA on and run your bottom line to one side. (I prefer the left side) use the 90*NPT fitting on the other side and thread the micro-rock into it. Connect the lp-line from the grip to the rock and trim as necessary.

Now, with the power to the board on and the LPR turned down to zero, gas up the marker. Slowly turn the lpr up until you hear a hiss come from the solenoid/ram. When this occurs, turn the lpr back until the hissing stops (usually 1/8-1/4 turn) Now, chronograph the marker. If you bring you velocity screw flush to the body, you can use the lpr to change the dwell and chrono the marker that way, just like any other electro-pneumatic marker.

If you have any problems, feel free to ask!

Yep! Nabbed it from Raion.

Tallen, thanks for the info, but I also got Model 98 receivers for it, so it should just drop in. If not, I'm sure I can make it work! This isn't my first E-Bolt project, but the other one crapped out, due to no fault of mine. It was a BSI kit, and regrettably, the board was fried. I still have the ram, battery housing and solenoid, should anyone want them (for a price. )

OMG NO SELLING NEWB!

As for Psychoballistics, they did make good project 'cockers, and had a light body, but were only worth a darn if you replaced the pneumatics, feedneck and frame, which is greater than the cost of the 'cocker itself...

Also, you'll have a hard time convincing me one 'cocker is more accurate than another under the same conditions. Or any gun for that matter.


EDIT: I edited my first post with a running price list, to keep y'all updated. I also look forward to see where this goes, as to I'm not even sure yet. May try to make my failed E-Bolt project work, but I don't know if I can.

Also, I decided to go with the E-Bolt over the Sniper and Pneumag for 5 reasons: playability, awe effect, customization, affordability and I've always wanted one.

• I need a gun I can use, for better or worse, and the simplicity of an E-Bolted M98, along with the ability to easily convert it back to mech under extreme conditions, was a big deciding point.
• I spent my whole sophomore year in HS (3 years ago...) arguing to some tourney kid an E-Bolted 98 can keep up with whatever's out there. I'm a recballer, and when I play speed, I'm a back player mostly anyway, so length is no problem for me. I'd love to show the agglets at the field what a 98 can do.
• What can't you do to a 98? Srsly?
• I foresee me spending around $300 for everything. Maybe less. We shall see.
• Well, I've always wanted an E-Bolt, and since my BSI project crapped out, I've still never actually had the chance to use one.

All in all, I believe it's win-win for me.


Edited by DeTrevni - 16 October 2007 at 12:31pm

Yep. Raion said she had a few. I don't know how many that is, but if you REALLY want one, now would be the time to jump.

Keep in mind, these are for the original Model 98, and with some slight modification, the 98 Custom. If you have a new-style 98c or a 98c Pro, it will take a LOT of milling and grinding to make these work.

DT, if it's a "Gilled" M98 (one of the original bodies) you soooo have to mill out the gills my man!

That's psycho man. Are you doing break beam or reflective?

Either way I'd place the vision system so it looks at the bottom of the chamber.

If I don't find a way to 2-way it, that is! 

It looks like the ram housing extends all the way to the beginning of the hammer, making 2-waying it difficult. BUT, with a drill press and a dremel, I bet I can make it work!

EDIT: If it doesn't, I still have the BSI ram to work with.


Edited by DeTrevni - 16 October 2007 at 7:22pm