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TIPPMANN PRO-LITE Manual --- HELP |
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GRIMSTONE 
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Joined: 12 October 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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 Topic: TIPPMANN PRO-LITE Manual --- HELPPosted: 12 October 2008 at 1:32pm |
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Hiya, I just bought 3 used Tippmann Pro-Lites and each of them need a little work as well as a good cleaning. Does anyone have a .pdf or a link on how to clean the Pro-Lites??? I usually just dive right in there and start taking pieces off however I usually get frustrated and mess it up more. I checked youtube and the Tippmann.com website but I didn't see any downloads for the Pro-lites. Pictures really help because I'm a retard when it comes with trying to understand the names of all the parts.. etc. Anything would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks! GRIMSTONE |
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mechanikmike
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Joined: 04 October 2008 Status: Offline Points: 21 |
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Posted: 12 October 2008 at 9:21pm |
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http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?
fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=1457&categoryID=77 that's the best picture I could find of a pro lite |
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GRIMSTONE
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Joined: 12 October 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: 13 October 2008 at 8:56pm |
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Wow Thanks for finding that site Mechanikmike. I really appreciate it and I know it will help. Your right.. its the best picture i've seen so far. However it is still a bit hard to see some of the smaller pieces. Does anyone else have a link for a picture or manual on the Pro-lite? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! GRIMSTONE |
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mechanikmike
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Posted: 13 October 2008 at 9:12pm |
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no problem, I know what you're dealing with I jumped into rebuilding my
friends old pro lite and caused a huge issue that i finally got nailed down, anything in particular you need to know or see? worse case I can post a link to pics of the one I have completely torn down so you can have actual pictures of the internals, just have to wait until next week, finally got it working and it needs to be ready for a huge scenario this weekend here |
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GRIMSTONE
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Joined: 12 October 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: 13 October 2008 at 10:15pm |
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I've been stocking up on paintball guns because I run an annaul Men's retreat in Michigan. So far Tippmann's have been the best and most reliable paintball gun i've run across. I picked up 3 Tippmann Pro-Lites at my local paintball store for $20 each but they need a little work. So far they shoot between 225-265fp (which is fair), however they are quite dirty and in poor condition. I wanna strip them down completely, get all the crap out, replace some O-rings, and build them back up. Don't need to do any mods... just need to keep them running and reliable. I do have a few questions though. 1. Does the jagged washer on the forarm grip vertical feed do anything? Doesn't appear to be important, but one of my 3 guns is missing it. 2. Are there any screws that need to be left alone? ie. on the tippmann 98 i believe there are a few pressure screws that shouldn't be messed with. 3. If you remove the gas line and nut, so you can detach the grip from the upper part of the gun, should you use Teflon tape when re-attaching the nut? Or is Teflon tape not needed? 4. When cleaning out the main bolt, would you recommend? Just lubing it with oil or is a greese recommended? 5. What is the best method to cleaning out the internal parts of the gun? Just don't want cause any accidental rusting. 6. Can you even order Tippmann Pro-lite parts these days? 7. Any tips you can give me to avoid the big problem you had when tearing down yours? Thanks again bud, I really appreciate all of your help! GRIMSTONE Edited by GRIMSTONE - 13 October 2008 at 10:22pm |
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mechanikmike
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Posted: 13 October 2008 at 11:03pm |
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ok, I'll work on pics when I have the time, 1 the jagged washer is just to
help grip the hopper,2 I haven't come up with any screws that cause any issues taking mine apart they are all just standard screws, 3 if you remove the gas line nut only and not the fitting that goes into the valve then teflon is actually not suggested, the fitting nut and line has a crimp ferrule like a compression fitting you only need teflon on the pipe thread half that screws into the valve, 4, hoopes #9 oil seems to be the popular lube for a tippmann though i use gold cup oil or tech t gun save or smart parts sleek(better to ask some of the other guys on if any of those isn't recommended), 5 I strip all my markers down to clean and lube them and it's not that bad to do on the pro-lite, 6, you can find parts for them my local shop stocks most everything but they are becoming scarce, my problems were as follows, first there is a small square of metal under the front grip screw tube(once you take the grip screws out you'll see the little sleeve they thread into) that square holds your valve in place which is kind of important in this design the valve floats and if it's not there it might not get the proper pressure from the rear bolt, next issue I found is the tippmann front bolt o-ring I got from my store was a little big so it caused extra tension so the marker wouldn't cycle properly, then sometimes the seer wouldn't catch the bolt, the seer was worn round a little light work with the bench grinder squared this right out, one thing if you haven't noticed yet the allen screw under the slide forward feed adapter also pinches the barrel threads, loosen this up and you can unscrew the barrel, it will accept A-5 barrels(at least the one i have does), one more thing is you might need new main springs if you can't get the velocity up high enough with the adjuster screw or if it's inconsistent beyond this they are pretty simple and as far as reliability the one I have was sitting for about 8 years and we put on a CO2 tank and cocked it and squeezed the trigger and managed to shoot my truck with the paintball that was stuck in the barrel |
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GRIMSTONE
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Joined: 12 October 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: 14 October 2008 at 6:08pm |
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Awesome. Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. It really helped. Look forward to seeing the pictures when you get back. GRIMSTONE
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Enos Shenk
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~-o@ Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: A comfy chair Status: Offline Points: 14109 |
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Posted: 14 October 2008 at 6:34pm |
 The basic and adequate clean: Remove tank, remove 4 grip-to-reciever bolts, pull grip off. Remove barrel and foregrip, remove end cap, remove rear sight. Turn it upside down and the linkage arm drops out. Clean it, and the slot it runs in. Pull out the spring, spring guide, rear bolt and cocking handle. Clean the rear bolt and spring guide. Pull out the front bolt and clean it, no need to lube it. Drop some oil into the trigger mechanism, oil up the rear bolt and linkage arm and reverse the breakdown procedure. Dont mess with the valve unless its busted, dont remove the gas line from the reciever unless you need to get at the valve. Simple. Edited by Enos Shenk - 14 October 2008 at 6:36pm |
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mechanikmike
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Posted: 14 October 2008 at 9:28pm |
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I do want to add one thing to Enos Shenk's post, actually reminded me of a
problem i forgot to post, the replacement valve they sold me was actually made incorrectly, the front pin stuck out too far so when I assembled it and gassed it up it just leaked down the barrel, so I agree, don't touch the valves unless necessary, now that's a well laid out pic |
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GRIMSTONE
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Posted: 15 October 2008 at 10:44pm |
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"Now that's a well laid out pic" Where you referring to the Tippmann Pro-Lite or the Pirate? lol GRIMSTONE |
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GRIMSTONE
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Posted: 19 October 2008 at 11:38am |
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Animated Tippmann Pro-Lite
http://www.zdspb.com/media/tech/animations/prolite.gif GRIMSTONE Edited by GRIMSTONE - 19 October 2008 at 11:43am |
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Ish0tUd13
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Posted: 29 July 2010 at 1:33pm |
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wow thank you this has help me to find out whats wrong with my Pro-lite I think my Valve is bad it don't recox after I shot and the OC2 was leaking from the valve line I ordered a new valve from Tippmannn parts and its on its way
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Pictures would be GREAT!! 