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filling the gaps.. |
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Sangreti
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Topic: filling the gaps..Posted: 16 December 2008 at 10:21pm |
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so Ive seen and herd that people fill the safety warnings and cocking slot on the 98 custom and i was wondering how
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~square peg~
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kurieitaa
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 12:14am |
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most use jbweld, or bondo fiberglass.
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Sangreti
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 12:59am |
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how do i make shure it doesnt stick to my e bolt?
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~square peg~
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sinisterNorth
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 9:43am |
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You don't have your Ebolt on while you're filling it? You're going to want to sand it down anyways. How did you think people did it?
EDIT: You do realize this is going to require a little bit of work, right? While you're at it, you may want to consider doing any milling you have in mind. That way, when you're all said and done you can sand everything down nice and even and give a fresh coat of paint. Edited by sinisterNorth - 17 December 2008 at 10:20am |
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oldpbnoob
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 9:44am |
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Take it out.
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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kurieitaa
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 7:57pm |
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are you serious.....lol, befor you do any kind of filling or body mod'ing, you have to take everything off the body. Edited by kurieitaa - 17 December 2008 at 7:58pm |
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Sangreti
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 8:06pm |
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not as i ment it i ment how to sand the inside so my e bolt wont catch or rub on
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~square peg~
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tippmannfreak
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 8:20pm |
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...you should sand the inside... edit. if this is actually unclear to you, look up "polishing internals" Edited by tippmannfreak - 17 December 2008 at 8:21pm |
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Sangreti
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 8:23pm |
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again not as ment What kind of sand paper |
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~square peg~
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Yomillio
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 8:32pm |
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Very light, light sandpaper. Steel wool is highly preferable to sandpaper in this situation - use it if you have it. If not, go get it.
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Sangreti
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 8:54pm |
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thank you for your time
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~square peg~
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sinisterNorth
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 8:55pm |
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Meant. And, as already stated, use steel wool on the inside. Sandpaper on the outside. |
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tippmannfreak
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Posted: 17 December 2008 at 9:04pm |
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wow, i was trying to be subtle...use the seach button. i think it's awesome when there are real topics outside of the t and o but this is not one of those times.
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jaybird
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Posted: 19 December 2008 at 11:50pm |
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you can use spray striper to get the hard to get places .thats what i used on my tippmann. just clean it well after.
Edited by jaybird - 19 December 2008 at 11:51pm |
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oldpbnoob
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Posted: 20 December 2008 at 7:53am |
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Excepting if he is trying to work with jbweld. He will spend eons trying to smooth out the inside of the marker where he has filled the cocking slot just trying to use steel wool. If using JBWeld to fill in the cocking slot, try to get the work as smooth as possible before it sets. Basically, keep an eye on it and keep molding it until it is too hard to work with. Once you have hit this level, you may want to have a peice of broom handle or something approximately the same diameter as the inside of the receive half. Lay the receiver over it while it is drying and it will help the JB weld keep its shape. Once its dry, use wet/dry sand paper to smooth it down. I usually start with a 220 grit for rough work and end up using 400 or higher for finish. Be careful not to damage the metal outside of the area you are working on. Keep in mind that you may have to do the fill and sand a couple of times to get things right. Just when you are finished, run your hand over your work and close your eyes. When you can't feel the transition from one part to another, you know you are done. Edited by oldpbnoob - 20 December 2008 at 7:54am |
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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