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Pre 2010 A5 with LP kit failing to cock |
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Robmoo 
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Joined: 27 October 2002 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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 Topic: Pre 2010 A5 with LP kit failing to cockPosted: 07 May 2016 at 10:02am |
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My Tippmann A5 that I have owned for over 10 years with a LP kit is now failing to cock. What parts do I need to buy and replace?
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spydercam
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Like a mad scientist, but with Tippmanns Joined: 31 January 2008 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 1000066 |
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Posted: 08 May 2016 at 4:24am |
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Mmhhh 10 years ago she was cocking(working) fine ?
Normaly nothing can get damaged, dissasemble, clean from old grease(oil), check O-Rings, grease again(just area where the Hammer moves but not the sear area), Triggersysten clean is good enough (if no oil on Piece that catches the hammer, could slip over). Your LP-Kit should be fine but you can fill some drops good oil in the ASA before gas up so the Reg. will get oiled without dissasembling.  Edited by spydercam - 08 May 2016 at 4:26am |
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I like Tippmann !!!
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Robmoo
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Joined: 27 October 2002 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: 08 May 2016 at 10:02am |
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Looks like the bolt and sear are worn. I don't think I can just drop in the old stock bolt.
Edited by Robmoo - 08 May 2016 at 10:02am |
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spydercam
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Like a mad scientist, but with Tippmanns Joined: 31 January 2008 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 1000066 |
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Posted: 08 May 2016 at 3:18pm |
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Whatīs wrong with the bolt ?
With a small file which fits in the hammer sear area you can may fix it if you donīt have two left Hands !!! The stock bolt should be no Problem to use but Change the Hammer would be a Problem. Iīm not shure if you mean Hammer or Bolt !?!?! (Cause iīm german)
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I like Tippmann !!!
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Robmoo
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Joined: 27 October 2002 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: 08 May 2016 at 6:43pm |
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Sorry. Saw the hammer called the rear bolt once. The hammer. Not sure if taking more metal off will help.
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spydercam
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Like a mad scientist, but with Tippmanns Joined: 31 January 2008 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 1000066 |
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Posted: 09 May 2016 at 5:51am |
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Just to be shure that we are talking about the same Thing !!! Important is the right angle in the sear area at the hammer. Cause the sear metal is harder than the hammer one it getīs damaged after thousands of balls. I made some pics so you understand the repair better i hope so !!! In german we call it "Schlüsselfeile" in english should be something like key-file, very small file for precision work. The file got one side without blades which should be on the flat area at the hammer. Just use force to the side direction but be shure the file is allways flat on the hammer sear area. Do slowly not fast and have a look at the angleīs !!! I think itīs max. 1mm to file should be made in a few minutes but take your time gone material wont grow again !!!    It canīt get worser than it is now !!! 
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I like Tippmann !!!
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tallen702
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Hipster before Hipster was cool... Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: Under Your Bed Status: Offline Points: 11850 |
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Posted: 23 May 2016 at 2:57pm |
Yep, used to be called the rear bolt until recently. You can try sharpening the lip where the sear catches as Spydercam is suggesting, again, as he said, it's not like it can get worse. I'd change out the sear first though. Should be standard 98 sear. You're correct on the rear bolt being different, they're lightened in the LPK equipped 98s. Mind you the lightening was just removing the center core (which was removable anyway) and drilling holes in it. Check mcarterbrown.com on the B/S/T forums for spare parts before shelling out for replacements elsewhere. Can usually find what you need over there for cheap. |
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Robmoo wrote: