ValveBody retap?

Unless you are experienced and have the proper specialized tools (bottoming taps, bottoming drills , drill press with depth stops Etc ) I would hesitate to say you could do it , but in theory it can be done.

For the twenty bucks the new valve is gonna cost , it's a lot less heartache to buy and install a new valve,, the good news is you shouldnt need to purchase new valve screws .

As you've guessed by now , put a small amount of loctite on the screws when you install the new valve , and just snug up the screws . Use Teflon tape on the ASA connection , or if you have and prefer , (I've always had trouble sealing up the asa hose) use a bit of loctite 242 on the second and third thread of the male connector and then screw it in tight .

adblink wrote: nah I need new screws, well one at least. Somehow they blew off when I was testing my RT and I was only able to find one of them.  why do I need to tape off the ASA connection? isnt that screwed into the powertube? I never took that off and it doesnt need to come off when taking the valvebody out?

I think Shadowminion means when connecting the hose from the ASA to the valve. Now, as for retaping the limited depth holes in the side of the valve body, Shadow's analysis is correct. It would require some effort even with all the correct tools to tap to the next larger diameter machine screw.

I have fixed a couple this way: I set up the power valve body in my drill table vise with the stripped screw holes set perfectly straight up. Then using my drill press as my guide I took the next larger tap and, with pressure on the quill shaft, turned the chuck by hand to start and continue to turn about 1.5 revolutions. Keeping everything in place I then installed the same size BOTTOMING tap (a tap with no taper) and again with pressure on the shaft turned the chuck by hand until the tap bottomed in the hole. (a wrench may be used for leverage to turn the chuck, but care must be taken to recognize when the bottom of the hole is reached...you can generate enough penetration pressure to punch through the side of the valve body

This created fresh clean sharp threaded limited depth holes for the next larger screw size. Two larger holes must be drilled in the right side of the marker shell.

Another, easier, method is to clean the stripped holes with solvent (acetone) and fill the hole with a plug of mixed JB Weld (or other good epoxy). Take a tooth pick and make a hole down the middle of the plug forcing the epoxy into the valve body threads leaving a large hole down the center of the epoxy plug. Take new screws and spray with lightly silicone to prevent sticking. Then with the valve in your hand, not in the marker, screw the screws in till they bottom in the hole. Take care to feel contact so that you don't continue turning the screw until all the epoxy is squished out of the hole. You are forming a new set of threads with the epoxy. Let sit for 24 hours.

Remove the screws and file or sand off any epoxy that protrudes above the surface of the valve. Install in the marker with blue LocTite torquing only till snug. I used a valve for a year with these epoxy threads...it never loosened.

I have also drilled all the way into the bore of the valve. Tapped and debured the hole, then used screws that were slightly shorter than flush with the inside of the  valve bore. Installed with Gel type "LocTite"...worked like a champ.

By now you will have likely decided to just buy a new valve...or at least a new body. Read my post Marker Trouble? Read Maintenance Archive to see how to disassemble the valve parts.

what do you think I should do? This is the response I got back.

If the gun is under its’ one year warranty, then return shipping and the parts/labor will be free. If not, you pay for shipping, and parts we replace. Our labor is always free. It usually only takes a day (two at the most) to complete, then however long it takes to ship back. If you have shipping questions, call our shipping department at either # below

I'm not sure if it is under warranty, even if its not, I dont think it would be cheaper sending it to them (because of the shipping there and back. I guess I could just e-mail them the serial