98 custom e bolt

Parts are pretty available for the marker itself. The e-bolt, not so much. Mind you, that thing is made from machined aluminum and brass, so it's not like it'll give up the ghost anytime soon.

The rarity of them makes the whole marker worth $100-$150 depending on condition if it's fairly stock in all other aspects.

The good thing is that if the board conks out on you, you can throw a DM4 board into the marker and with a little soldering magic, you've got a wicked paint thrower again.

Things to remember about the set-up:
Changing modes means removing the grips and turning dip switches on and off. There should be some manuals online which will tell you what combination of dip switches equals which firing mode.

The system turns the Model '98 into a true electro-pneumatic marker. As such, it requires a low pressure regulator to run the ram. Adjusting this regulator is easy. Start with the regulator screw all the way out. This should prevent any flow from reaching the solenoid and ram. Slowly turn the screw in until you begin to hear a slight leak in the region of your grips. This is the solenoid blow-off regulator doing it's job and preventing over pressurization. When you begin to hear the hiss, back the pressure down until you no longer hear it, and then give it a quarter turn more to give you a "buffer" for any kind of reg creep/etc.

Do NOT oil your marker by putting oil into the ASA and dry firing it. This will cause oil to enter the regulator and solenoid assembly, this is a bad thing.

There is a potentiometer which should allow you to adjust dwell if you really want to take it that far.

There are two e-bolts. The BSI and the GTA. One is 2-way the other is FASOR you can tell by the milling, solenoid type, and regulator style.

Finally, the guys over at http://www.98og.net/ will have more info if you need it.

Post up some pics man! I wanna see what you got!

Also, reactive mode (shot on pull and shot on release) is wicked fast for a marker that is over 10 years old.

Nice! She looks good and clean and unmolested. I'd run a longer steel braid or switch to macro for the ASA/Reg to the valve, but I'm betting she'll fire up just fine. That's one of the later kits made expressly for Tippmann, they're less titchy about operation. Those will keep up with today's electros on the field. Your low-pressure reg screw is in the front of the ASA. Adjust it the same way I mentioned in the above post. You'll probably have to play around with the dip switches (under the left-hand grip panel) to figure out what combination equals what mode.