valve assemble 98 custom

Are you asking how you get the valve complete out, or the internals out of the valve body?

To get the valve complete (alluminum body housing internal parts), you take the PT put of the gun, and take off the SS line. Then get a wooden rod and push very hard through the powertube skiny part. It shouldnt be easy to get out at first so push very hard.

tigman250 wrote: oh my god!! good luck tippmann could have tried to make this a simpler project i like to take mine apart to clean it once a year what a pain!! here it goes first you must take the tension off of the rods (i lightly clamp it in a bench vise) just enough to compress the spring then on one end of the valve there is a brass insert push this back a bit, you will notice a spring clip (the small black ring that goes around the inside of the hole) this is in a groove and holds the brass insert from blowing out. take a flashlight and look closely at it you will see the end of it, the end has a small cutout in it to put a small screwdriver in to start the ring out of the groove, while still keeping tension on the first screwdriver insert another to lightly pry the clip outward (this is where you start to get frustrated) this will probably take many tries. when you finally have the clip out of the valve slowly remove the pressure of the vise, holding onto the valve body to make sure it dosen't take off. TADA!!! you have completed the easy part, now clean your valve or do whatever you wanted to do(by the way why do you want to take the valve apart?) now for the hard part reverse all this and reassemble the valve. you think getting that puppy out was hard just wait untill you go to put that clip back in. have a stress ball and a punching bag handy. Good Luck oh yeah these are instructions for the Pro Lite I think the 98c is the same I'll know for shure this weekend i'm installing a R\T Someone please correct me if it isn't the same procedure

Tigman's post  lays it out pretty well. But I don't find it difficult. The brass disk on the forward end of the valve can be depressed with the eracer end of a pencil. First stand the valve up on the pin end...I use a sewing thread spool as a stand to allow the pin to not get pressed by the table top. Look through the gas connection line hole while pushing the disk with the  pencil. When the disk is depressed far enough to see through the gass line hole stick an allen wrench in to hold it in place...then remove the pencil. The disk will stay in place. then you can go about finding the end of the circular clip that is the stop for the disk. THe circle clip is a bit of a pain. Gently pry up the end with the point of a drawing compas or deviders and gently worm it out. Depress the disk again with the pencil and remove the allen wrench you used as a block. Carefully release the pencil pressure. You are in! 

Now on reassembly I replace the circle clip with a "c" clip available from Home Depot. Looks something like the picture below. There is an inexpensive tool, C-clip pliers, that makes installing and removing a piece of cake.

Fixed it!

tigman250 wrote: excellent idea Bruce i don't remember being able to push it in that far, you can bet your  I'm gonna look next time. I've heard of replacing the circle clip with a internal c-clip before but i believe it required some machining to create clearance for the "ears" i think it was on model98.net (not for sure it's been down a long time) anyone else remember that please let us know!!

Now that I know how to do it, lets see if I can keep the image on the post. This type of "c" clip is called an internal type...intended to fit inside a tube or hole, it exactly fits and replaced the Tippmann clip with no modifications. The other style turns the "ears" to the outside and is used on the outside of rods or tubes. The common names, as you referenced, are "internal" and "external" "C" clips. The original equipment style used in the valve is commonly called a "ring" clip or "circle" clip. Circle clips can be used either internally or externally.

triggerhappy1 wrote: ^ I did the c-clip mod to my valve. You need to drill two shallow holes in the valve plug for the ears of the clip. The plug has a small machined egde that the snap ring normaly fits into. With the internal c-clip however the ears stick out and the plug isnt flush with it. Its hard to explain.

Hmmm, interesting. The brass plug on mine was completely flat. I inspected it with a loupe while I had it out (looking for damage to the "O" ring). With the internal "C" clip in place the plug assumed the same position as it had with the circle clip. BTW, were you the contributor who posted that change on the *98.com web site?

triggerhappy1 wrote: It may vary from older to newer models, but mine definatly has that recessed lip. And with the c-clip, that recessed lip is empty and the plug is pushed slightly back. I didnt notice any differance before I drilled and made it fit snug, but I did anyway.

I have four valves on hand and decided to inspect them all. The one that came with the marker has the recess around its edge. One I bought from Tippmann also has that groove. One I bought from I&I does not, though it is a Tippmann part. The one in my marker, which I bought on line, does not have the recessed edge. Interesting that there are differences. Interesting that the Tippmann design has the recessed edge in the first place. Must be something about the way the assembly is done during manufacture.