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Top cocking M98 (without butchering)

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RockinPorsche View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RockinPorsche Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 12:27pm
yeah if you have that top cocking half m-16 ring thing up on it, you should try making a FAMAS style mod, that would be very cool

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CidHighwind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 12:43pm
Is that a M-16 barrel shroud you have on your desk?

It sure looks like one!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnnyHopper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 12:57pm
Yes, that's a M203 shroud along with a M249 stock and foregrip.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CidHighwind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 1:15pm
I didnt even SEE the stock assembly there! Where did you get such things? It almost scares me that you have such things laying around on your desk!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnnyHopper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 1:19pm
Ebay used to be a nice place to shop (now I think they've banned anything that CA residents are not allowed to look at). You should see the sten I bought there
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CidHighwind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 1:39pm
dear lord. a sten.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote evil_fingers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 6:20pm

Originally posted by JohnnyHopper JohnnyHopper wrote:

Evil-Fingers - The coil is a spring to return the handle after cocking. The cocking handle is not attached to the hammer and it does not cycle when the gun is fired. It's hard to see, but there is a tab brazed to the bolt linkage and another one brazed to the steel rod on the cocking handle.

Ah ok and btw, you bought a Sten Gun...is it a replica or is it fully operational?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnnyHopper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 6:29pm
It's a de-milled one. It has the legal number of receiver cuts. I think it was @$30 and it includes the barrel, mag well, stock, all internals and the select fire trigger group. It is and will remain a paper weight because I have a problem with going to prison forever.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CidHighwind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 7:06pm
Its not like its an easy thing to find a new receiver for assault weapons anyway. Very, umm illegal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnnyHopper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 7:15pm
A Sten is the exception. It's a steel pipe with a couple of holes and some parts welded on. It's just not something I want to take a chance on. I only bought it because it because I could and because I wanted to see the dimensions of the thing for a possible future milsim.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Commander Cool Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 8:24pm
what did u use to attatch the top cocking system to the linkage arm?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnnyHopper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2004 at 9:04pm
I used a mapp gas torch and brazing rod. You just need to sand and degrease the metal very well and then shim the peice of steel so it is centered on the bolt linkage rod when you flow the metal into the joint. It's very tricky to keep everything lined up and straight while heating the joint cherry red and then trying to touch the brazing rod to the joint. The metal tab was shaped to follow the curve of the bolt linkage rod as well. The other fun part is you need a surface to lay the parts on that won't absorb all the heat. Don't ask me how I know this, but ceramic tile will scale/fracture off peices when heated and bricks or cinder blocks are just as bad (not cool when they pop and fling the metal off at your face).

The good news is that it is much stronger than solder and easy to file the excess brass off.

Edited by JohnnyHopper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote whack-a-mole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 September 2004 at 9:51am
wow, cool.......ok, I'm lost but cool anyways

Edited by whack-a-mole
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ItalianoGuy04 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 September 2004 at 1:32pm

da da dun dun dun, i'm loving it... nice a lot of people screwed up there gun's trying to do what you did...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pimptastik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 September 2004 at 1:47pm

Originally posted by Hairball!!! Hairball!!! wrote:

I want to hump it.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CidHighwind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 October 2004 at 3:16pm
Hey, Johnny! Is there a reason you couldnt have used the original cocking rod for the gun, and simply just drill a hole for the linkage arm in front of it?

There would need to be a quite large slot along the top of the gun, but you could still sand or grind the cocking rod down to make it thinner!

It would seem to be easier to me
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnnyHopper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2004 at 3:14pm
You do not want to rotate the hammer and then have to grind a new flat for the sear catch. I also would not want to file down the stock cocking knob/rod, that would be a huge pain.

What I did is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds.

All I needed was :
5 min to rout both halves of the reciever.
5 min to shape a piece of 1/16 spring/hard steel.
30 min to figure out how to hold the steel tab and braze it to the bolt linkage.
20 min of grinding/filing/sanding the brazed on tab.
The hardest part was then making the knob that bolts onto the tab. I spent several hours on that because I only had a dremel tool to work with. You could just as easily make the tab more narrow at the top and then braze a thin steel tube on it for the knob.

Look at it this way. My way, you only modify the receiver a small amount and do not do anything to the hammer. You simply attach something to the bolt linkage and what you do can easily be ground off if need be. Filling in the slot on the side of the receiver is also reversable since it's just epoxy. The only other thing I needed was half the the stupid plastic cocking knob that came with the rocketcock. I just cut it flush with the hammer and put it in to keep the aluminum insert in the hammer still.


Edited by JohnnyHopper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LbLPunk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2004 at 3:41pm
i love the lock of the m16 t cocking thingy. ive been thinking about a way to do that. good job
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IDEAL corners Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 October 2004 at 3:59pm
I want one,
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