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This project is going to be FUN! |
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tallen702 ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Hipster before Hipster was cool... Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: Under Your Bed Status: Offline Points: 11856 |
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<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>
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SSOK ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() The Savior of Christmas Joined: 01 September 2005 Location: PRNJ Status: Offline Points: 5919 |
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The only bad part is, its plastic. If you accually do make an electro-pneu Talon I would be afraid of it stressing out the plastic and breaking.
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tallen702 ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Hipster before Hipster was cool... Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: Under Your Bed Status: Offline Points: 11856 |
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I'm going to use metal plates that have been pre-drilled and tapped that are epoxied to the body to reinforce the areas where the action will be going on. That's why I decided to not do the Talon. Not enough room to strengthen the frame, no rear ASA, and no way to control that sucker from rising up on you. The e-Talon is something I may do once I have the e-Tigershark all figured out. I'm currently trying to see if I actually need to run with a two-noid board or if I can sync the bolt and ram so that they achieve the actions they need to at the same time. So long as I have an adjustable dwell, I'm good.
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<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>
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Yomillio ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Retard Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3398 |
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Good luck. Im hoping this works so you try the e-talon.
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Bird-Dog ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 April 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 422 |
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Can we get some pics? I'd kinda like to see how you are going to brace the plastic. |
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Mack ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Has no impulse! control Joined: 13 January 2004 Location: 2nd Circle Status: Offline Points: 9906 |
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You will find the Tigershark "plastic" is much heavier duty than the Talon plastic. (This is because it is not really a plastic, but a form of fiberglass.) As long as you don't get carried away with cutting into it, it should require no bracing other than washers under the screws to help spread the weight/stress loads.
If you have to cut into any internal metal parts (if there are any-I don't remember the TS internals very well) you should "test" the metal first to see how hard it will be to work with. I'm not sure on the TS, but on the Stingray, BE used two different types of metal on the internal parts. The older metal could be easily worked with normal tools. The newer stuff was significantly harder and could easily kill a normal drill bit. I mentioned somewhere about checking out the STING forum for possible projects. I still recommend that as there are some Stingray trigger mods that you might find useful/applicable to your TS project. |
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Monk ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 23 October 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6556 |
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If it is a type of fiberglass. You could use some resin and hardener to build up where you need. you could also add on fiberglass parts where needed.
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tallen702 ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Hipster before Hipster was cool... Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: Under Your Bed Status: Offline Points: 11856 |
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Well, the advice from the boys over at MCB is to make it into a auto-cocking auto-trigger. But I'm dead set on e-bolting the sucker. I don't care if I'm out $300, I'm sure I can get it to work!
The 'plastic' is rather heavy duty. The old black Stingray 1's and 2's as well as the tigersharks were tough as heck. Which reminds me, I need to get my Stingray-I back from my friend back home. |
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<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>
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DeTrevni ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() b-YOU-ick. Was that so hard? Joined: 19 September 2005 Location: Houston, Texas Status: Offline Points: 11957 |
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Anyone have a pic of the Tigershark Enos did? Tallen would love it...
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Evil Elvis: "Detrevni is definally like a hillbilly hippy from hell"
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Mack ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Has no impulse! control Joined: 13 January 2004 Location: 2nd Circle Status: Offline Points: 9906 |
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I'm going to correct myself here. I said fiberglass earlier and that is not quite correct. Looking through some of my old Stingray info, I came across the term "polycarbonite resin". Either way, it's fairly tough stuff. Edited by Mack - 13 April 2007 at 2:51pm |
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tallen702 ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Hipster before Hipster was cool... Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: Under Your Bed Status: Offline Points: 11856 |
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Yep, PCR is pretty much the Polycarbonate (the stuff lenses are made out of) equivalent of epoxy. Gooooood Stuff. The trick is to not use the crystal/ghost markers as they tend to be a little more brittle. Gotta go black baby. |
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<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>
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Mack ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Has no impulse! control Joined: 13 January 2004 Location: 2nd Circle Status: Offline Points: 9906 |
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Monk ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 23 October 2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6556 |
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Even then, you should be able to attach anything to it with the right resin and hardener. Which would make this build so much easier. Especially when attaching rams and solenoids.
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