my 98 custom

thats the best 98 custom i have ever seen

 

did u weld up the wholes?i did my gun kinda like urs-urs is my fav so far out of thousands ive seen.mine is black-soon 2 have a black w/silver fade..........infinity/10

Bumping old threads is like eating old cottage cheese it makes no one happy.

Erik6, did you need that many?

Ekim I still want to know how you lightened it and all that stuff.

ok, first i tried to take pictures of the internals but you can't really see clearly what i did, so here's what i did. i drilled 17 -  3/8" holes in the grip handle. then i ground out any unnecessary lugs or excess material in the grip and around the vertical adapter. i took my dial venier calipers and measured around all the seams and ground out all thick lips and made the seams the same thickness all around the inside. i ground away half of the slot where the linkage rod slides. the pistol grip is about  1/8" smaller (my dye3 grips just slide on now). both front and rear sights are comletely gone. i took out the o-ring that the hammer hits on the return cocking stroke and put in  3 rubber washers ( that shortened the stroke approx. .150") then i shortened the rear bolt (hammer) .025 of an inch. i also filled in the slot in the sear so it dosen't slide it just piviots. that took .100 of an inch off the hammer travel. i put a trigger stop in but it takes out the trigger slop before you pull(my trigger has approx. .010" travel before it trips the sear, and only about 1/8" total travel). both sight dovetails are gone and i have a ccm spyder clamping center feed neck. i used "Quick Steel" to fill in the cocking slot and to make the mounting surface for the center feed. the stock hammer from the full boar rear cocking system is lighter than the tippmann hammer, but i turned mine down .010 of an inch (not much weight taken off) but it never rubs on the inside if the receivers - less drag. i use the maddman green spring. i put the lp hose and fittings on the rt and drilled out the fitting on the rt cylinder for more air flow (becareful if you try this). it shoots pretty fast now, i use a halo b with a victory board and have to set the board at 24 bps or i chop. i'm not saying i can shoot 24bps - probably 18/20 at best.
i'm putting a lapco machine gun shroud on and a modifing a M85 AEG magazine to go over my expansion chamber just for a military look, and will repaint it again soon.

I see, I'm nopt going to do all that now because, I don't want to because its a large amount of work but I'll do some now. I lightened my internals by just lightening the body like doing deep engraving on the protected areas like the grips or the tippmann logo for instance in my grips my name is engraved twice inside the grips, I also have been thinking about trying to make deep wells into the frame then sealing them with something light like bondo maybe I want to lighten it, and when I get access to a machine shop I want to rework the internals and shorten it. I want to shorten it by removing part of the upper body tube and lower shortening the stroke and taking off some of the back of the gun and well, working from there. I would also like to make the foregrip and frame 90*.

But, first I need to replace my valve and random screws that are missing.

EDIT - And a friendly reminder if your valve screws are not in correctly as in tight enough they get shot out by blowback, and strip the threads in the valve, if they are in too tight they mess with the valve, I never knew that until it was too late...(Shoulda read the manual)

Edited by ^Pirate^