Mech Walkable 98, UPDATED and PIC

i saved a pic a long time ago...forget where i found it...the way its done in the pic wont work right...its still hard on the pull...ill post pics and a guide to how i did it when i get it working right...

Edited by ¤ RaVeN ¤ - 16 October 2006 at 7:45am

i dono...from what it looks like...the sear is being held up with the tape so its easier to trip, then the trigger is setup to be walked easily...kinda like a roller trigger...then he has a trigger stop which seems to keep the trigger from over-traveling backwords, and then pulled the sping out an extra coil to lessen the tension on the sear itself, as for the magnet, im not sure...im going to try it on my broken down 98 see how much it reduces the trigger pull...and if its walkable...

 

1. Stack about 5 pieces of 1/8"x1/4" pieces of electical tape on top of eachother to make a little tape block then place it here where the trigger would normal be pressing on the power tube, then tightly wrap a pice of tape all the way around it ONE time to hold it in place, dont do it more then once or one and 1/2 times at most or you will start to have a hard time fitting the power tube into place.

2. This is the pin that the sear rests on, wrap some 1/8th inch tape strips around it until you have about 3 complete wraps. Then set it back in place.

3. Pull some extra slack in this spring, do not pull too much in it because then your sear will not work right, but pull it to about what you see mine, thats just about the right relieved tension to still have a working sear and a light sear at the same time.

Notes:
        Make sure that you polish all your internals including where all your trigger mechanics go...this is important to make the trigger even smoother and work all the better. This trigger will still take a slight ammount of force to fire the marker...but it is a big change as you will notice. the marker is somewhat walkabe but it will take some pratice to get used to, but its not too hard to do. all in all it worked out very well and i was quite happy with the results, these same principles can be applied to the a-5 as well with just about the same result, except the a-5 is a little lighter on the pull.

well good luck and i hope it works smoothly for you, post your thoughts on this and if you try it, tell me how it worked out and if you like it.

 

 

© Copyright  Justin Gilroy  2006

Edited by ¤ RaVeN ¤ - 16 October 2006 at 9:44am

cool, when you air it up and try it out let me know how it goes, when i aired up my 98 (which leaks like hell) i had a problem with it so i couldnt get a good steam...but a few times it felt like i was getting 14 or so bps before the bolt would be dumb and not latch, though i fixed the problem i have no air left...lol

Well I just tried Airing up my A-5 which I did some of the above to, it works much better than before.

at first I had a little trouble because my trigger spring wasnt quite up to snuff,I had in a VERY weak trigger return spring, so my trigger would stick in the back possition, so I just put in a slightly stronger spring (still much lighter than the stock return spring) and it worked like a charm. my trigger pull is much easier than before. and with the pre/post trigger stops, the gun is now Quasi-walkable. I'm not the greatest at walking so I couldnt get it going really good but with a bit of practice i'm sure it will be much better. also, I could probably make it even more walkable if I mess with the sear spring a little. I'm going to keep the regular one just the way it is in case I need to go back, but im gonna try a couple different springs to make it so its an easier pull while still catching the rear bolt consitantly.

thats a really cool idea, and if it works that well i think this should be stuck somewhere so it doesnt get lost. just an idea. ill try it when i get home from college on my 98 since i only have my ion with me.

would this work with a r/t or would it be pointless???

yeah it would be pointless